It’s the end of week one of the fall 2024 One Room Challenge and I feel like I’ve already lived 5 months in 5 days. All kidding aside, I knew when I picked the kitchen for my renovation project, that it would be no easy task. These first few days getting started have reminded me of that. Week one was filled with lots of preparation for the space, but also gave me some pause for my initial design plans and ultimately some changes. Let me share the journey and my thoughts with you…

Budget Friendly Kitchen Renovation Week One Accomplishments

This week, I managed to fully flush out the design plans for the space and am really excited with where I landed. I created a list of everything I need for the project, with links, pricing, etc. so I can have a rough idea of what I’ll be spending. I also created a timeline to help keep me on track to finish this massive undertaking in only 8 short weeks. If you don’t already know, I work a full time job with a commute, so this project is my 5-9 after my 9-5! 

The Prep

The first step was to empty this kitchen, which I’ll admit I completely underestimated. I’ve been living in this house for 6 years, and have definitely overlooked how much I’ve accumulated since moving in. My dining room may or may not look like I’m hosting my own estate sale right now haha. As my mom said, I feel “right at home” with that concept.

A Plot Twist to the Plans

After the cupboards were emptied, I created a little map of my kitchen. I numbered each cabinet set and drawer, and then with masking tape, I labeled each piece. I certainly do not want to assume anything when it comes to this house, and that includes that the cabinet doors are all created equal!

Now I was ready to really take this kitchen a part! I began removing the hardware and setting it aside. From there I began removing the cabinet doors and the drawers as well, but as I was removing the drawers, I noticed the rails they were sliding on weren’t properly installed. Rather than make due with this, I took it upon myself to demo the existing framework for the drawers and will build new rails.

I’ve also decided to change the hinges. Originally I had planned to rub n buff these decorative hinges but to be perfectly honest I absolutely hate them. I don’t know what I’m doing from a hinge installation standpoint, and quite honestly it gives me more heartburn than any other part of this project. However I also know that in the end, I’ll be so happy I took the time to figure it out and I know it will change the entire look of the kitchen.

Originally I shared that I’d be starting with the woodworking, adding shelving to the corner cabinet and fixing what used to be a drawer under the double oven (the previous owner glued it shut). The new jigsaw I ordered was on backorder, so to make every minute count I’m shifting the timeline and am going to start with the painting portion first. My thought is by starting with painting, it will give the cabinets plenty of time to cure before placing items back inside. I also think it will serve as motivation to keep working each day, as it will be such a large transformation to the space.

Prepping the Cabinets for Painting

After shifting the plan to paint first, this past week was all about the prep work. Which by the way, does anyone like the prep work? I certainly do not! After the kitchen was emptied and the drawers and cabinet doors were removed, I got to work cleaning every nook and cranny.

Using a mix of dawn dish soap and warm water, I used my electric spin scrubber to clean every surface I could. In the hard to reach places I used a scour pad. After that, I rinsed this with fresh water and a different rag. Finally I dried with a third rag. If this sounds a bit excessive, that’s because it is, but it’s a necessary evil. My next step will be sanding and we don’t want to sand dirt into the wood!

Last but not least, I was able to squeeze in a little bit of patching. Knowing I’ll be changing out the hinges (or rather, really committing to that plan!) I used wood filler to fill each hole from the previous hinges. I’m very nervous about installing the new hinges and making everything even, but I’m more excited to get rid of these holes on my face frames.

Budget Friendly Kitchen Renovation One Room Challenge Week 2 Goals

So what’s next? Paint of course! But not so fast. I still need to sand everything first to create a rough surface for the paint to stick to. I’ve decided to invest in my first orbital sander and chose this one because it has varying speeds and seems relatively light to hold. 

To help make this feel less overwhelming, I’m breaking this down by surface. The main focus of week 2 will be the actual cabinets themselves in the kitchen. After sanding, I’ll run a tack cloth over everything to clean up any dust, and then I can start sealing off the space.

I’ll be using a paint sprayer for the first time ever and am quite excited to try it out. But with that decision comes a lot of prep. I’ll tape off the floors, ceilings and create walls of plastic around the room. Windows, countertops, plumbing, appliances and more will all need sealed off.

After the sealing is complete, it will be one coat of primer, followed by any last minute sanding needs, and then two coats of paint! We’ll see how far I get this week but it will be wash, rinse and repeat for the shelves, drawer faces and cabinet doors (both sides). 

I hope you’ll follow along on socials and cheer me on! And if you need a refresher on the vision of the space, you can see all the details from my ORC Week 1 plans HERE.

To follow along with hundreds of talented designers, head to the One Room Challenge Weekly Updates HERE.

Are you ready for the grand finale of 2024? We’re going out with a bang, and we’re doing it in good company as I join the 2024 Fall One Room Challenge. If you’re not already familiar, the One Room Challenge takes place twice a year and is a way for designers to collaborate and foster friendly competition and collaboration as we all aim to finish a project in an eight week time period. I had planned to join the Spring One Room Challenge, but could not quite nail down the primary bedroom design (if you saw the reveal you know it was worth the wait) so I’m quite excited to join this fall’s challenge as we tackle THE KITCHEN!! That’s right, I’m going all in with a budget friendly kitchen renovation. We might even call it a facelift. Here’s the plan:

The Kitchen Before

I’ve shared very limited photos of the kitchen, mostly because it’s been in disarray ever since I had the refrigerator leak which prompted a full mitigation, insurance battles and finally some new white oak hard wood floors. During mitigation, we had to break the top of the kitchen island in order to get it out for the flooring installation. It’s been in the garage ever since (topless) and for a while I thought about not having an island. But after living without it for nearly two years, I really  miss the storage and the prep space that’s in close proximity to the stove top. So we’re bringing the island back (more on that below).

As you can see from the “before” photos, the space was previously made over with cooler tones. A cool white on the kitchen cabinets, a tile backsplash that reads cool and a blue/grey/black granite countertop that used to go with the dark blue walls I inherited when I bought this space.

The Kitchen Today

Since the hardwood flooring install, the kitchen has been in flux. I have exposed wood on the bottom of the cabinets that I make eye contact with every time I pass through. The island light has been swagged to the side for longer than I’d like to admit. And the previous owner did some handy work sawing off one of the drawer faces below the double oven and has literally glued it onto the face frame of the cabinet.

I’ve made some tiny attempts to breathe some life into this space by painting the walls to a warm cream (Swiss Coffee by Behr) and have also swapped out the brushed nickel hardware for some pretty brass knobs from DeVol Kitchens.  I made a cute little breakfast nook for myself, however the main hub of the kitchen really needs attention at this point.

My budget friendly kitchen renovation plan

I’ve alluded to this a few times, but I’ve gone round and round on what to do with this space. Part of me wants to gut the entire thing and reconfigure where the appliances live. I’ve even thought about bumping the kitchen out (there’s a screened in porch on the other side). But I like the idea of challenging myself to see if I can make my current kitchen into my dream kitchen on a budget (and in 8 weeks). So how will I do this?

This project will involve a lot of painting and a lot of woodworking. I’ll first take to ripping out the existing backsplash and replacing it with wood paneling. All existing kitchen cabinetry as well as the new wood paneling will get a coat of fresh paint in this pretty warm taupe (Benjamin Moore’s Stone Hearth).

I’ll also bring back the existing kitchen island and will build onto the backside of it, creating a cabinet for my microwave as well as a cut out area for a wine fridge. This will free up both a large amount of counter space as well as cabinet space. I’ll need to have electrical routed through the floor for this, but it will be worth it. The existing farmhouse lantern will be replaced with two milk glass fluted pendants from the 1920’s which were actually from our former family business (so that will be special).

And the countertops? I’m going to keep them, but I’m going to paint them! Yep that’s right. I’m going to paint them to look like real marble. I’m very nervous but also very excited to see how it goes. Quite honestly I think almost anything will be better than what I currently have.

Last but certainly not least, I plan to install a rolling library ladder around the kitchen soffits. This will allow me to reach the top shelf without needing a step stool, plus it will add a charming touch to the space.

What’s First for the Budget Friendly Kitchen Renovation?

We are getting right into the wood working first, as it will allow me to keep the kitchen in tact and use it for a little while longer. I’ll be adding some shelving in one of the upper corner cabinets which I hope will get me feeling confident with the woodworking tools.

Second we’ll be tackling the mystery drawer underneath the double oven and seeing what’s behind it. It may just get glued back on depending what I find ha ha! In all seriousness I am going to try to make it functioning again. I just don’t expect that to go smoothly.

Simultaneously I’ll be building the new backside of the island, as well as additional frames and pieces to adjoin the new with the existing island. I’ll likely put the first few coats of paint on this in the garage before bringing it all upstairs, as I’d like to have that open space to paint the existing kitchen cabinets with.

Be sure to follow me at AllisonSkiffDotCom on Instagram for sneak peaks of my progress over these next eight weeks. And stop back here on my blog for weekly updates where I’ll be sharing the design process, key learnings and more.

And you can check out the design plans of the other guest designers on the One Room Challenge Blog.

Thanks for following along! 

Autumn has been my favorite season basically since I was a young adult. There’s something about the crisp morning air, the way apples taste better and the delicious smelling candles that come with the season. And as a decorator, it brings an entire treasure trove of décor along with it. One of my favorite ways to seasonally decorate is by incorporating faux fall stems into rooms around the house. So today I want to share that with you! We’ll look at a few different arrangements that include my favorite faux fall stems (plus how many I use in each arrangement).

Artificial Nandina Leaf Branches

New for me this season is the Artificial Nandina Leaf Branch. I really fell in love with the shape of these, as I liked that they covered a wide area, but were sparse at the same time. For this grand look on top of my grandmother’s piano, I have four of these branches in this large mauve clay vase. Similar to the Cimicifuga stems, I’ve bent each one at the base to create various heights, and also bent each branch in a different direction. I love the warmth they bring to this room and also think they compliment the Olive Tree in the corner!

Nandina Stems | McGee & Co Clay Vase | Vintage Trojan Horse | Faux Olive Tree

Plum Cimicifuga Stems

These beautiful deep plum Cimicifuga Stems from Afloral have been on my wishlist for a couple years now, and I finally purchased them for this year. I love the deep plum color of these and find them so striking and perfect to get you in the mood for fall! The company has recently redesigned this stem to be fuller, which is fantastic because now you don’t need quite as many to achieve that dramatic look.

Of course, I still wanted a dramatic look so I opted for the best of both worlds. I created a larger arrangement with five Cimicifuga Stems in this pretty tall taupe vase, bending the stems at the bottom to create varying heights for each piece. The result is a layered a full look which is perfect for this corner in my dining room.

Wallpaper | Plum Cimicifuga Stems | Tall Vase | Candle | Claw Foot Brass Dish | Candle Snuffer (similar) | Burled Wood Tray

As an alternative, you can see an example with just a single stem flanked in a shorter vase. I love this option too and think it’s perfect to add a little flair to my primary bedroom.

Single Fall Stem

I cannot for the life of me remember where I got this single stem. I think it was from Crate & Barrel but they no longer show it in stock. I still wanted to show this because I think it’s a lovely example of how a tall single stem can create a little drama all on it’s own. The key (in my opinion) is making sure your vase opening isn’t too big so it doesn’t flop over. This one is absolutely perfect for the task!

Stem (similar) | Mirror | Candle Snuffer (similar) | Vase (similar)

Dried Hydrangeas

Quite honestly I think dried hydrangeas are relevant all year round, but I do think they shine during the autumn season. I have eight dried pink hydrangeas in this larger vase, as well as a wire flower grid to hold everything in place.

Dried Hydrangeas | Large Round Vase | Brass Totie Task Lamp | Tripod Lamp (similar)

Burgundy Eucalyptus Stems

If you’re looking for scale, you need to look for some eucalyptus stems. I love the pretty burgundy color of these but you can find them in lighter colors as well like this warm golden option or even a light beige like this one. For this arrangement I have three eucalyptus stems.

Eucalyptus Stems (similar)

My Favorite Faux Fall Stems

When it comes to faux fall stems, they can be an investment, but like any of my home décor, I like to think of it as building a collection. Each year I add a few new pieces as I dust off the old ones, and I test arrangements out in different areas of the house. It keeps things fresh and interesting!

I’m rounding up everything I currently have in my collection below, as well as a few wish list pieces I’m eyeing for next season.  Happy fall styling!

Sources:

(from top left to right)

Plum Cimicifuga Stem

Nandina Stem

Magnolia Stem

Dried Hydrangeas

Golden Eucalyptus Stem

Turning Maple Branch

Siberian Elm Branch

Recently I installed custom draperies in the dining room, and I have to say, the room feels all grown up now. I’ve always planned on removing the venetian blinds that came with the house, but with this room facing the road, having no privacy was not an option. I also just wasn’t in a rush. But if we’re being honest, I also didn’t realize how dramatic the impact would be! So all that to say, I want to show off the new drapes, but I also want to share my best practices for choosing and installing custom draperies.

Choosing the Right Style of Draperies

The style of your draperies should complement the overall aesthetic of your room. Using my dining room as an example, it’s a formal and traditional space, so I wanted a more tailored look. But lets review all of the options, as each space is different:

• Tailored: These classic draperies are characterized by clean lines, simple folds, and a polished appearance. They are perfect for traditional and contemporary spaces. Typically you’ll find your linen and cotton draperies are best suited for this look.
• Dramatic: If you’re looking to make a bold statement, dramatic draperies are the way to go. Think voluminous folds, luxurious fabrics like velvet, and intricate embellishments. These are ideal for dramatic and moody interiors.
• Casual: For a relaxed and inviting atmosphere, consider casual draperies. They often feature soft fabrics, relaxed folds, and a more informal look. Think of café curtains above the kitchen sink.

Lilie Linen Curtains | Brass Curtain Rod | Curtain Rings

Understanding Header Types

The header type is an important factor in determining the overall style of your draperies. Again, wanting a more tailored look for the dining room I chose a triple pinch pleat. Here are a few common options:

• Pinch Pleats: These pleats are created by pinching the fabric and stitching it in place. Pinch pleats are a versatile option that can be used for both tailored and dramatic styles. You can do a traditional pinch pleat, or a triple pinch pleat which uses more fabric and is therefore a fuller look.
• Rod Pocket: A simple header with a pocket that slides onto the curtain rod. This is a popular choice for casual and tailored draperies.
• Tab Top: Tabs are sewn into the top of the drapery, creating a casual and relaxed look.
• Grommets: Metal rings inserted into the top of the drapery, allowing the fabric to slide smoothly over the curtain rod. Grommets are often used for contemporary and industrial styles. To be perfectly honest, I’d advise against this option as it appears quite dated at this moment in time.

An example of a pinch pleat curtain header

Consider the lining

Lastly another important decision you’ll need to make is how you want your curtains lined. For a romatic and whispy effect, you can leave them unlined which will allow light to filter through. On the other hand, for privacy or insulation, you can go with blackout curtains which will create a heavier effect. In full transparency I chose blackout lined draperies and I wish I would’ve gone unlined.

Hanging the Rod

We’re going to skip ahead and touch on hanging the curtain rod next because that’s going to dictate how we measure for the drapery panels.

Rod Height

Hanging the curtain rod at the correct height can significantly impact the overall look of your room. As a general rule, hanging the rod 4-6 inches above the window casing is common practice. However, I personally prefer to take the rod all the way to the ceiling (or crown molding) as I think it creates a dramatic look. I also believe it makes the room appear larger and more grandeur.

Extending the Rod Past the Windows

You always want to extend the rod past the window to some degree. A good rule of thumb is to extend the rod 8-12 inches on each side. This allows the draperies to be fully open without blocking light and creates a more balanced look. If you’re tight on space or are close to a corner,  you can go as short as 4 inches if needed.

Faux Limelight Hydrangeas | Geometric Rug | Bubble Chandelier | Wallpaper

As you can see in the dining room, I went all the way up to the ceiling and extended the rod about 6 inches on each side. I decided this mostly due to the space in between the windows. I didn’t want to end up with a skinny strip of wallpaper and wanted to allow enough space to hang my pretty vintage mirror I found at an estate sale.

Measuring for Drapes

Ok now to the most important part: determining the size of  your draperies! Accurate measurements are essential for ensuring a perfect fit. Here’s a step-by-step guide:

Width

Measure the width of your installed curtain rod. Based on what level of fullness you want your draperies to have, you’ll either multiply this number by 1.5, or by 2. So for example lets say your rod is 40 inches long:

1. Tailored look ( x 1.5): 40 x 1.5 = 60 (each panel will be 60 inches wide)
2. Dramatic look (x 2): 40 x 2 = 80 (each panel will be 80 inches wide)

The key here is you want enough fabric to close the curtains without looking like you have a flat sheet hanging up. No one wants that!

Length

Determine the desired length of your draperies. For a floor-length look, measure from the top of the rod to the floor. If you prefer a puddle effect, add an extra 4-5 inches.

An important note: take into consideration how you’re hanging your curtains. For example if you have a pocket hole back or grommets, it will be straight forward. However if you’re considering pinch pleats you’ll have rings on your curtain rod. These will cause an extra 1-2 inch drop from the rod to the top of the draperies. Make sure you account for that in your measurements.

I measured for my curtains to “kiss the floor” which creates a tailored look.

My curtain details:

Brand: Homerilla

Type: Lille linen blackout

Pleat: triple French pleat

Color: Snow White

Length: 104”

Width: 36”

Lining type: 90% blackout

choosing and installing custom draperies reminder

Draperies are more than just window coverings; they’re a statement piece that can dramatically transform the look and feel of a room. From tailored classics to dramatic extravaganzas, the right draperies can add warmth, elegance, and personality to your space. Remember, the key to successful drapery design is to create a cohesive and inviting atmosphere that reflects your unique taste.

Links:

Homerilla custom curtains

Brass curtain rod

Brass curtain rod rings

Wallpaper

Paint: Du Jour by Valspar

Rug

Chandelier

Buster & Punch toggle light switch

Buster & Punch brass dimmer switch

Chairs (vintage) – similar

Table (no longer available)

Related:

Installing Custom Trim in the Dining Room

Shop the Dining Room

I am SO excited for today’s post, because today we’re talking all about the plans for the next project – and it’s a big one! If you’re subscribed to the monthly newsletter, you were the first to find out that the exterior of the house will be getting a facelift this month! While I had some other great options left on the 2024 project list (and have already made some great progress), the outside has been on my mind ever since I got a new garage door this spring.

Do you see what I mean? The new garage door was the gateway for this project!

Where we Started

When I first bought my house, I was so focused on the fact that I owned a giant brick house that reminded me of the Home Alone house (really, it was something I got so excited about) that I didn’t pay a lot of attention to exterior or even think I’d ever want to change it. But over time you start to notice things. And once I noticed that the trim of the house matched the mortar in between the bricks, I honestly couldn’t unsee it. It drove me up the wall.

On top of that, there’s been quite a bit of wood rot on the fascia and even around the front door way. They’re issues that are out of my scope to DIY and when I see them, I’m embarrassed by them. Literally the house is rotting in some spots.

A photo of the front during the winter so you can see all of the (yellow) trim

The Plans for the Exterior Makeover

So since we know how transformative paint can be, I’ve been daydreaming about covering up this dated yellow trim with something more stately. Originally I didn’t know what color family I was leaning towards until I started to think about some of the work I’ve been doing inside the house over the past couple years. It should come as no surprise I like things a little moody (did you see the primary bedroom flip?!), bold (ahem, the dining room) and classic (the primary bathroom and especially the wallpaper in the toilet room are the perfect examples). So I wanted the exterior to almost be a preview of what you could expect to find inside. And I’ve ALWAYS wanted a shiny black front door so that’s definitely on the list.

Earlier this year one of my neighbors did exactly what I had been daydreaming about and it reinforced my idea of going to the dark side. Her trim and windows were painted a dark charcoal grey and it instantly added a whole new shine to her home. That was all I needed to see to know I was on the right path.

My neighbor’s house with fresh charcoal trim. I love the updated look!

When it comes to my own house, as I’m sure you noticed, there’s a lot of trim work on the back side of the house, primarily on the deck. So I’m keeping that in mind as I think about colors. Going with a traditional black might be too jarring and may look blocky. But going too light might look dated quickly with the amount of sun this area gets. Just a few things I’m keeping in mind as I dive into a color palette rabbit hole!

Next Steps

Bricks in every house are completely different, so although I like my neighbor’s color choice, I know it may not necessarily work on mine. So I headed to Lowe’s and picked out a handful of color swatches (did you know they carry Sherwin-Williams paint now?!) and I got busy holding them up against the dark bricks on my house. I think we have a handful of front runners so far, so next steps will be getting some samples and painting trim on all sides of the house to see how they look with the different lighting throughout the day. I’m also dreaming of some new exterior lighting but that’s a post for another day.

Make sure you’re following along on socials to see how this project unfolds over the next month. I’ll be sharing the entire project from start to finish!

I haven’t been this excited to share photos with you in a while. Are you ready to see my moody color drenched bedroom? I’ve been itching to transform my bedroom into a moody retreat and after a rollercoaster of decision paralysis (you can read all about that here), I settled on a design that felt so right. My bedroom has been light and airy for the last several years, and while that worked for a moment in time, I was feeling like I hadn’t given it the attention it deserved. I was more so focused on washing away the previous owners and just resetting the room. So I added it to the 2024 project list and knew it was a “must do” for the year.

When I started thinking about designing the space, I focused on how I wanted the room to feel. And here, I wanted the bedroom to feel romantic, relaxing, and maybe a little historic. To start, I added custom box trim on the walls which added so much depth to the room. But the rich, dark green paint color with brown undertones really set the tone.

Ivory Linen Bed | Faux Fur Throw | Chocolate Bamboo Sheet Set | Tapestry Pillow

As a reminder, here’s how the bedroom looked beforehand:

Again, the beige served its purpose and I still love this specific color (Accessible Beige by Sherwin-Williams), but I knew there was so much more potential for this space.

Same angle, color drenched transformation:

Velvet Draperies | Ceiling Medallion | Vintage Chandeliers

Without really meaning to do so, a pair of vintage nightstands I found on Facebook Marketplace helped set the color palette for this space. I loved the rust color against the dark green, so I mirrored that with floor to ceiling blackout velvet draperies in the same pretty rust color. The marble lamps were also found on FBMP but needed fresh shades, which I was lucky to find at a local estate sale ($12 each!). Speaking of lighting, I knew I needed a bit of a statement light for the room and I found this gorgeous antique chandelier on Etsy. What a showstopper right?!

I went back and forth on bedding for a while, and originally I had thought about pulling in another brown or rust tone, but in the end I opted for a classic ivory duvet, a new down duvet insert and brown bamboo sheets. I accented it all with this beautiful tapestry lumbar pillow and I think it’s all so perfect together.

Blackout Velvet Draperies | Nightstands | Lamps

Faux Fur Throw | Tapestry Pillow | Ivory Linen Bed

The final piece (and the hold up!) was figuring out a rug. Ultimately, I relocated this Sarouk rug from my living room and while I knew it would work, I had no idea how well it would work in the space. Not only does it pull out the greens and rusts, but it also highlights the chocolate brown dresser I flipped.

Glossy Brown Paint | Copper Hardware Paint | Plum Stems | Teak Candle

Note: For the dresser I used Farrow & Ball in London Clay Full Gloss. I used Farrow & Ball Treron in Modern Emulsion for the walls and Modern Eggshell for the trim.

This room feels moody, dramatic, and memorable. Cozy, yet inspiring. I love the mix of old and new items, as well as color combos I haven’t played with before. There’s some work to do styling the dresser but I’m honestly in no rush. I love this room so much already I never want to leave.

Moody Color Drenched Bedroom Sources:

Wall & Trim Color: Treron by Farrow & Ball

Bed

Chocolate Brown sheets

Ivory Bamboo Duvet Set

Down Duvet Insert

Tapestry Pillow

Faux Fur blanket

Blackout Draperies

Curtain Rods

Curtain Rings

Nightstands (vintage)

Lamps (vintage) – similar

Dresser (vintage) – painted in F&B London Clay (full gloss)

Plum stems

Teak Candle

Foot Stools (vintage)

Rug (vintage)

Paintings (vintage)

Chandelier (vintage) – similar options

Ceiling Medallion

Not too long ago, a type of paint called “chalk paint” was all the rage. I don’t know if it was the look of the finish that attracted people, or the ease of application, but everywhere you turned, something was being refinished with chalk paint. As with most things, what comes around goes around and chalk paint is no longer the life of the party. So now what? Well the good news is, it can be undone. The bad news is, it isn’t easy. So using my experience as a firsthand example, lets dive into how to remove chalk paint.

Back in 2011, I fell victim to purchasing a dresser that was painted in a pastel blue chalk paint. I’ve never really liked the color, so I think I must have been attracted to the shape of the actual piece itself, but I remember being so excited about it. I purchased it from Etsy and paid way too much for shipping, but you don’t know what you don’t know.

With the recent primary bedroom flip, the time has finally come to remove the robin’s egg blue and transform this vintage dresser into the beauty I know it can be. It has wonderful bones and after I started evolving the color scheme in the bedroom, I knew the full gloss chocolate paint I had leftover from the powder room would be perfect for it.

How to Remove Chalk Paint

Step 1: Prep the Piece

Just like anything, before you start digging in, you want to prep your workspace. Wipe down the furniture, remove the hardware and prep the surrounding area. I wasn’t able to move this heavy piece out of the room, so I invested in a spray shelter and it was the best $40 I could have spent. They come in all shapes and sizes and even zip up to keep dirt out (this is the one I used).

Step 2: Removing the wax

If you’ve painted before, you’re no stranger to sanding your woodwork to ensure your new paint has something to grip to. While the objective is the same in the end, there’s another layer (quite literally!) involved with this. The goal here is to remove the wax finish that’s over your chalk paint. If you don’t, the new paint / stain will not adhere to your furniture and you’ll have to start all over again. So this is important!

Use an 80 grit sandpaper and sand with the grain until you start to see the shine wearing off the furniture. Be warned this is very messy and the dust goes everywhere. Wear old clothes, gloves and a mask. If you’re going to be repainting your furniture a color, then there’s no need to go all the way down to the wood grain. The goal here is to simply remove the top coat of wax. If you’re not painting your furniture another color, you’ll want to keep going until you get down to the wood grain.

Step 3: Smooth things over

After you’ve been thorough with the heavy grit sandpaper, clean any loose dust with a shop vacuum. Then run a fine grit sandpaper over all surfaces to smooth things out. This should be relatively light work, but will likely still yield colored chalk paint dust.

Step 4: Tack Test

This was where I found my work was tested. Vacuum or wipe any loose dust that’s visible and then grab your tack cloth. Gently run the tack cloth over all surfaces and pay attention to see if the cloth wants to grip any spots. If you find the cloth not smoothly gliding over your furniture, inspect that area thoroughly. Chances are, there’s residual wax that needs to be removed.

If so, repeat steps 2-4 until the tack cloth glides across all surfaces.

Now assuming you’re painting your furniture a color and not restoring to a wood finish…

Step 5: Prime

The good news is the hard part is over! This is the last step before you get to paint your furniture a new color! Depending on which color you’re painting your piece, prime it with either a regular primer or tinted primer. I found one coat to be sufficient for my dresser, however I did go ahead and have it tinted since I was painting the dresser a chocolate brown.

Step 6: Paint!

You’re finally ready to paint! Paint as you normally would and enjoy this process because the chalk paint is far behind you!

Alternatives for how to remove chalk paint?

I did a ton of research on this project before I even touched a piece of sandpaper. There were many suggestions out there ranging from mineral spirits to a heat gun to turpentine. Ultimately I decided to stick to the devil I knew which was sanding. I did not personally paint this furniture the first go around, so I didn’t know what the original woodwork was or looked like, and I didn’t want to run the risk of damaging it. It’s a little bit more work, but if you’re on the fence about how to remove chalk paint, I’d highly recommend sanding because you have full control.

The final dresser flip

After I painted the body of the dresser and the drawers in Farrow & Ball’s London Clay, it was time to focus on the hardware. I used Rub ‘n’ Buff in Spanish Copper and didn’t focus on trying to make it perfect. I like that some of the original darkness of the hardware is peeking through the copper, as I think it gives it a warm patina.

The paint is still a bit tacky which is why I have the plaster coasters underneath just to be safe!

I honestly cannot believe this is the same piece of furniture I started with! Although it was not an easy flip (and I don’t think furniture flipping is in my future) I’m very proud of the final result from this project. It adds a pop of interest to the overall room, while coexisting perfectly with the moody color palette. I’m so happy I was able to restore and up-cycle this piece of furniture rather than buy something new.

If you have any questions about this project, drop them below in the comments section and I’ll do my best to answer!

Can you believe we’re nearing the end of July?! Me either! This year has truly flown by and I know (as always) it’s going to speed up as we get closer to the holidays. As I’ve had my head down and deep into projects, I thought it would be a great time for a 2024 project list progress report. How have I done? What can I still do? And what do we need to move to next year? Lets see…

Completed:

Dining Room Molding – check!

While this was a smaller project in concept, it was a big moment for me personally. I conquered my fear of power tools and it gave me the momentum to dream bigger for upcoming projects.

The dining room was also the perfect room to give this kind of work a test drive so to speak. With the chair rail already in place, and plenty of doors and windows, there wasn’t much planning needed and there was limited math to do.

shop the dining room here

I love how this custom trim really elevates the already traditional space and I couldn’t be happier with how this turned out. If you’re thinking about planning custom trim in one of your spaces, I’ve put together everything I used for this project right here.

Back Entry Way – check!

This was one of the first projects I tackled this year and it’s had such a gigantic impact on flow. The wallpaper and fresh trim color really bridge the gap between the cozy tv room and kitchen. When I look at before photos of this space I shudder and can’t believe I didn’t tackle this sooner. It feels so welcoming and it gave me a chance to add some more wallpaper to the house. A win-win!

shop the back entry here

In Progress

Primary Bedroom – in progress but almost check!

I went through a rollercoaster ride of designs for the primary bedroom but finally landed on color drenching the space. And I’m so glad I did. After I decided I would add custom molding in this space and color drench it in a deep green, I really tried to let go of getting into any more details. Aside from ordering a new bed in advance, I wanted the design to guide me as I worked.

shop my custom trim supplies here

I’m so close to being as close to finished as I can be at this point, and I can’t wait to share photos and videos with you. You can see a sneak peek above of the color drench in Farrow & Ball’s Treron (it’s so good!). I plan on collecting some pieces (lamps, a rug, and a chandelier) so won’t be a full reveal, but it will still be a dramatic before and after. I’m not in a rush to “finish” this room as I really want everything to feel perfect. And so far it does.

Exterior – in progress

The exterior of the house is going to get an “in progress” sticker. I was able to add a new garage door into the mix, and while it’s not the most fun way to spend your money, the addition has been a huge upgrade both visually and functionally.

What’s left to do otherwise? Well, quite a bit. I really hope to get my trim and gutters painted by the end of 2024. I found someone doing exactly what I envisioned for my house literally right across the street, but he has yet to call me back. I’m going to keep on him and see if I can get a quote before moving onto another contractor.

If you can believe it, this photo was AFTER I landscaped. It’s time to bring in some pro’s.

After the painting, I’ll still need to do landscaping. At this point, I’m going to table that for 2025 as I want any new plants to have the best chance of surviving. It doesn’t make sense to install new landscaping only to have it trampled by painters. It also doesn’t make sense to install new landscaping right before winter.

I’ll be adding a couple more things to this category for 2025 as well. I’m in need of a new front and side door, so those will be new additions. And I also need to decide what I’m doing with my front steps. The bricks keep falling out and I’m worried someone is going to get hurt. I also really don’t like the look of them and would prefer a more traditional staircase with a black wrought iron railing. This is a new department for me so I have a bit of research to do before I let my imagination run wild!

To Do:

Laundry Room

I had every intention of tackling the laundry room this spring but a podcast stopped me in my tracks. The episode I was listening to challenged listeners to think about how they use their spaces and what they need out of them before they jump into the designing process. I sat with that thought for a while and realized my laundry room is the command center for the first floor. It’s not just a laundry room. It’s storage for cleaning supplies, wrapping paper, pool towels, a turkey cooker, tablecloths and every day tools. And quite frankly I have many more odds and ends that should be living in this space.

I’m now realizing this is going to need to be a VERY customized space where I need to max out every inch, and I need to ensure it’s functioning in the most optimal way. I’m not saying the laundry room won’t make the cut in 2024, but it may be wisest to move it to 2025.

My Office

My home office is still on the agenda for 2024, and I’m feeling really confident about checking it off the list. I’m currently in the middle of deciding if I want to do more custom molding (like a chair rail and box trim) with a wallpaper mural on top. Or if I want to just repaint and focus on collecting antique pieces that inspire me for this space. Either way, I’m so excited to tackle this space next. I’m considering doing this for the fall One Room Challenge!

The Kitchen

The kitchen. Perhaps my most exhausting thing to think about. I’ve gone round and round with what to do here. One day I’m ready to rip out all of the cabinets and start over. Another day I’m daydreaming about bumping out the house altogether. And then I consider just repainting the cabinets and getting new countertops. Last week I was daydreaming about attaching a rolling library ladder to the 90’s soffits. At least they’d be good for something then, right?

What I know for sure, is that I need to take EVERYTHING out of my cupboards, and I need to think about how I use the space, what I need out of it, and what I’m not currently getting out of it. And also, could I be doing anything better from a storage perspective? From there I hope I’ll know what to do next. I want this to be a truly intentional design, as it’s going to be the biggest renovation to date. Stay tuned to see what happens in the heart of the home!

How are your 2024 goals and projects coming along? I always find it helpful to look back and it gives me some momentum to move forward. If you haven’t checked in with yourself lately, I encourage you to give it a try!

Have you ever had your heart set on building a charcuterie board only to be overwhelmed once you arrived at the supermarket? We’ve all been there. Today I’m going to break it down into snackable pieces for you and we’ll create a charcuterie board that’s as pleasing to the eye as it is to the palate! This how to build a charcuterie board guide will walk you through every step, from choosing the perfect serving board to curating a balanced and beautiful selection of treats. Let’s get to work!

Large Teak Serving Board | Banswara Bowl | Soapstone Bowl

Setting the Stage: The Board Itself

Your serving board is the foundation of your masterpiece. Consider what kind of mood you’re setting and how big your gathering is. One of my favorite pieces is the large teak serving board from Alice Lane Home. Paired with the banswara marble and soapstone bowls, this set up creates a stunning foundation. Choose a size that comfortably fits the amount of food you plan to serve, leaving enough space for artful arrangement.

The Accompaniments

Now, let’s talk about the supporting cast that will make your cheeses and meats shine!

• Fruits: Fresh seasonal fruits like grapes, berries, or sliced figs add pops of color and sweetness. Dried fruits like apricots, cranberries, or dates offer a delightful textural contrast.
• Nuts: Almonds, walnuts, pistachios, and Marcona almonds provide a satisfying crunch and a touch of healthy fats.
• Spreads/Dips: Jams, chutneys, and mustards add bursts of flavor and complement different cheeses. A simple honey drizzle adds a touch of elegance.
• Starches: Crackers in various shapes and textures are essential for building delicious bites. Consider rustic bread slices, breadsticks, or even thinly sliced baguette for a touch of variety.

Not pictured: red & green grapes; strawberries

The Cheese Selection

Here’s where the flavor party truly begins! Aim for a variety of textures and milk types for a well-rounded experience.

• Soft Cheeses: Think creamy Brie, decadent goat cheese, or a spreadable mascarpone.
• Semi-Soft Cheeses: Gruyere, Havarti, or Monterey Jack offer a delightful balance between smooth and firm.
• Hard Cheeses: Aged cheddar, Manchego, or Parmesan add a sharp bite and a salty contrast.

All of these cheeses are from Aldi. I also used an Aged White Cheddar and sliced it (not pictured here)

The Meat Selection

Cured meats add a savory dimension to your board. Choose 3-4 options with a mix of textures and flavors.

• Prosciutto: This thinly sliced Italian ham is a crowd-pleaser with its delicate and buttery taste.
• Salami: Explore different varieties like peppery Genoa salami, mild soppressata, or a smoky chorizo.
• Capocollo: This cured pork shoulder boasts a rich and complex flavor profile.

I opted to create a rose out of the sandwich pepperoni to add some interest to the board. You can do this by folding the slices over the rim of a drinking glass! I only ended up using one of the salami’s after this.

Putting It All Together: How To Build A Charcuterie Board

Now for the fun part – creating a visually stunning and delicious spread!

1. Start with the Cheeses: Place your cheeses strategically around the board. Cut hard cheeses into wedges or slices,crumble softer ones, and arrange them in a visually interesting way.
2. Fold in the Meats: Drape prosciutto slices elegantly, fan out salami slices, and arrange folded capocollo in a visually appealing manner.
3. Fill the Gaps with Color and Texture: Scatter fruits, nuts, and dips throughout, leaving breathing room between elements.
4. Carbs for the Win: Arrange crackers and bread slices in clusters or fan them out for easy grabbing.
5. The Finishing Touches: Tuck in fresh herbs like rosemary or thyme for a touch of fragrance. Drizzle honey over cheese or fruit for a touch of sweetness.

Remember, balance is key! Aim for a variety of colors, textures, and flavors. Don’t be afraid to get creative and have fun with the arrangement. After all, the most important ingredient is the joy of sharing a delicious spread with loved ones!

Serving Ware Sources:

Large Teak Serving Board

Banswara Bowl

Soapstone Bowl

Other Recipes / Cooking

Healthy No Bake Energy Ball Bites

Healthy Chili

Mini Red Velvet Cakes

Homemade Cinnamon Rolls

Copper! It’s the metal that adds warmth, character, and a touch of timeless elegance to our homes. From gleaming pots and pans to stunning hammered sinks, copper elevates everyday objects into design statements. Recently I found a beautiful copper wine cooler at an estate sale, but it definitely needed a little TLC. Being my first copper piece, I had to do a little research on the best way to restore it, so I want to share my top tips for how to clean copper.

Before vs After

Conquering Tarnish: Your Copper Cleaning Arsenal

Tarnished copper? No problem! Here’s a breakdown of cleaning methods, from natural options to some store-bought heroes:

• The Natural Wonders:
  • The Lemony Scrub: This classic method uses the power of citric acid found in lemons. Cut a lemon in half, sprinkle some salt (coarse or table salt works) on the fleshy side, and scrub the tarnish goodbye. Rinse thoroughly with warm water and dry with a soft cloth.
  • The Vinegar Powerhouse: Vinegar’s acidity tackles tarnish with ease. Mix equal parts white vinegar and water in a bowl. Dip a microfiber cloth in the solution, wring it slightly to avoid dripping, and buff the tarnished areas. For stubborn tarnish, let the vinegar solution sit for a few minutes before scrubbing. Rinse well and dry completely.
• The Ketchup Surprise: Yes, you read that right! Ketchup’s acidity can be surprisingly effective on mild tarnish. Apply a generous amount of ketchup to the copper and let it sit for 15-20 minutes. The vinegar in the ketchup helps loosen the tarnish, making it easier to buff away with a damp cloth. Rinse thoroughly and dry completely.
• Bar Keepers Friend to the Rescue: This popular cleaning powder is a powerhouse against tarnish. There are several different types of Bar Keepers Friend, but for this project I like to use the Bar Keepers Friend Soft Cleanser. Use a microfibercloth and gently rub the liquid onto your piece and then wipe clean with a fresh cloth. Always do a spot test on an inconspicuous area first to ensure it doesn’t scratch your copper.

Bonus Tip: For heavily tarnished or intricate pieces, create a paste using salt, flour, and vinegar. Mix equal parts salt and flour, then add enough vinegar to form a thick consistency. Apply the paste with a soft cloth, buff gently, and rinse thoroughly.

Sealing the Deal: Preventing Future Tarnish

Now that your copper is sparkling, let’s keep it that way! Copper tarnishes naturally when exposed to air. Here’s how to add a protective layer especially if you went with an all natural cleaning method noted above:

• Wax On, Tarnish Off: Apply a thin coat of furniture wax to the clean, dry copper surface. Buff with a soft cloth to create a barrier that helps slow down tarnishing. Reapply the wax every few months for lasting protection.
• An every day option: you likely have some form of mineral oil in your kitchen. While not as strong as a furniture wax, mineral oil will also help seal copper and add at least a small level of protection from air.
• Lacquer Love: For a more durable option, consider using a clear lacquer specifically designed for copper. This creates a stronger barrier but requires more care during application. Ensure proper ventilation and follow the product instructions carefully.

Remember: Patina, the natural green or brown film that forms on copper over time, can be beautiful in its own right. If you prefer the antiqued look, you don’t necessarily need to clean and seal your copper.

All In One Copper Cleaning options

Short on time and looking for a one stop shop? There are options for you! While I haven’t personally tried these yet, I’ve done some research and these look like well reviewed options.

Wright’s Copper & Brass Polishing Cream: apply this thick cream all over and gently massage it into your piece. After a short time, wipe the cream off with a fresh rag and not only will your copper be clean, but it will be sealed too! I’m adding this one to my shopping cart for next time!

Brasso Metal Polishing cream: Brasso does exactly what it says it will do, and is good for all metals. So if you have a variety of finishes in your home, this should definitely be in your cleaning cupboard!

With a little cleaning know-how and some clever sealing tricks, your copper can continue to be a shining star in your home decor. So grab your lemons, vinegar, ketchup (or Bar Keepers Friend!), and get ready to bring back the brilliance. If you’re thinking of adding copper into your home, I hope this guide will be helpful for whatever your needs may be!

If you’re in love with this copper wine cooler as much as I am, I’ve rounded up a few similar pieces from the resale market. You can shop them HERE!

I’ve been itching to tackle my next big project for what feels like forever. While yes we’ve made some progress with the 2024 project list (hello back entry flip and dining room molding) there are some big spaces that have been calling my name. If you follow along in my monthly newsletter, you’re up to speed on the design block I’ve been struggling with over the past few months. I went round and round trying to land on my next design and it was so frustrating. But rather than try to push through it, I slowed down and let my intuition guide me. And it guided me right into designing…

The Primary Bedroom!

The Primary Bedroom Design Now + Then

Similar to the rest of the house, the primary bedroom has already undergone a mini-transformation from when I bought the house in 2018. I’ve removed the popcorn ceilings, ripped up the shag carpet and installed white oak hardwoods and re-painted the blue grey walls to a calming neutral (Accessible Beige – one of my favorites!). I also took down one of 11 ceiling fans and added a pink fringe chandelier. There was really no thought process there, I just liked it.

Was it ever intended to be the final design? No. But it was enough to stop my eyes from bouncing all around the room, and served as a band-aid while I tended to some other larger projects like the cozy tv room, dining room and the rest of the primary suite (closet and bathroom).

The Primary Bedroom 2.0

So what does the next chapter look like for this space? Calming. Relaxing. Retreat like. And a touch of luxe. After installing picture frame molding in the dining room, I know I want to do the same in this space. I’m working through exactly what the boxes will look like, but I’ve started sketching and am so excited about how it’s going to look in this large room.

And we’re certainly going to color drench. I’ve been bookmarking some warm dark smoky greens and can’t wait to buy some samples to start painting swatches on the walls. Right now Vintage Vogue by Benjamin Moore is my front runner, however I have a sample booklet on the way from Little Greene which I’m very excited to review.

Furniture wise it’s a bit of a mixed bag. I’ve had a saga in this room from the get go. To make a long story short, I rushed a decision out of desperation and ordered a bed that I’ve hated since it arrived. As painful as it is to correct a mistake like this from a financial perspective, it’s the right choice. I ordered the Finnea Bed from Anthropolgie and know that it’s going to be absolutely perfect in this room! The feeling I had after I clicked the “purchase” button was confirmation this was the right decision.

Shop the Primary Bedroom mood board

Looking Forward…

Rather than fully flush out the entire design, I’m going to focus on these 3 core elements and allow the design to guide me as I work. As I visit estate sales over the next several weeks, I hope to source new nightstands, lamps (I’m dreaming of marble lamps against smoky green walls), a vintage rug and some artwork. I’ll fill in the rest of the design with draperies and bedding based on what colors and patterns I need (when we get to that stage).

One thing I’m still working through is the plan for my dresser. I purchased my current dresser off Etsy over a decade ago and love the furniture piece itself, but the color is going to need to change. Part of me is considering painting it the same color as the walls & trim, but in a high gloss sheen. Add a little Rub ‘n’ Buff to the handles and I think it would really pop in the room!

For now, I’m going to focus on getting the molding ironed out and take this project one step at a time. Be sure you’re following along on socials to catch all the action. It’s never a dull moment around here! I can’t wait to share the journey with you and watch this space transform into the charming retreat I know it can be.

Thinking about hitting a local estate sale? I absolutely recommend it! Estate sales are a fantastic way to find upscale pieces at bargain prices, and they offer a thrilling sense of adventure. Whether it’s your first time or you’re a regular on the circuit, knowing what to bring to an estate sale can make or break your experience.

After you’ve identified which estate sales you’re going to go to, you’ll want to make sure you’re prepped for a successful day. Here are my top recommendations on what to have handy before heading out the door.

Tape Measure

If you only remember one thing I highly recommend a small tape measure. Depending on the scale of the house you’re going to, things can look much larger or smaller in different environments, so sometimes eyeballing can be tricky.

Bungee Cords

In the market for a rug or furniture? Bringing along a couple bungee cords will help secure furniture and/or keep large rugs rolled up tightly for easier transport.

Blankets

Blankets are excellent for placing in between and stacking pieces of artwork, mirrors or even wrapping around lamps. I highly recommend having at least 2-3 on hand for any sale you’re going to visit.

Newspapers / Boxes / Reusable bags

You’ll quickly learn every estate sale is very different. I’ve been to some which have provided packing paper for fragile items, but none of them have provided a way to carry your items. You are truly on your own! If you’re eyeing smaller items (especially glassware) it’s wise to bring your own boxes and packing paper to keep items secure.

Screwdrivers

A set of screw drivers isn’t the worst idea, especially if you have a small car. Recently I picked up a long entryway bench and when I flipped it over to lift it into my car I noticed the legs screwed into the top. If I would’ve brought a screwdriver with me the loading process would have been so much easier with my 2 door car.

Disposable Gloves

Estate sale companies do not clean the houses before the sales. Often times houses are dusty and sometimes even dirty. If you think you might be buying a rug, expect it to be quite dirty, as most often the rugs are in the middle of high traffic areas and everyone at the estate sale is walking on them! Same goes for any garage or outdoor pieces. Pack a few disposable gloves just in case you find yourself in this position.

Handheld vacuum

If you already have a small handheld vacuum it may be worth bringing for the same reasons I mention above. Especially if you don’t have a truck or other large vehicle.

Your measurements

One of the most important things! Take measurements of all your spaces. Empty walls you want artwork for. The height of your ceilings and width of your windows. The size of your rooms for both rugs and furniture. Again, the scale of other people’s homes can skew the perception of the size of the pieces. Keep your own measurements on your Notes app in your iPhone for easy reference.

Photos of your home

This may sound silly because of course we know our own homes, but it’s so helpful to have snapshots of each space for easy reference. If you’re on the fence about a certain item based on color or style, having a photo of your own space to quickly reference could be the deciding factor on whether you buy it or leave it!

Cash / check / credit card

Most estate sale listings will note whether they have particular payment preferences. I like to have cash, checks and credit cards on hand just in case. Some sales also take venmo which is very easy (but sometimes the wi-fi doesn’t work at the house). Keep all payment methods handy for a quick check out (and sometimes you can negotiate further with cash).

Part of the fun of estate sales is the sense of adventure and the thrill of the hunt! Going in with a little preparation and the items listed above will make it easier on yourself from a logistical standpoint, and you can truly enjoy the experience.

Late last year I found myself going to a handful of estate sales, all in the hopes of finding some Shiny Brite vintage ornaments for my Christmas tree. While I was able to find a handful of ornaments, I also found something else: the power of estate sales. You see, estate sales can help you create a collected home that looks like it stepped out of a magazine (without the magazine price tag!). Over the past few months, I’ve found everything from $10k+ vintage rugs to oil paintings to high end furniture. And today, I’m going to share my tips for how to find estate sales.

Estate sales are a treasure trove for unique pieces that tell a story. But with so many sales happening, how do you find the good ones? Well, my secret weapon is the EstateSales.net app! Let me show you how I use it to curate my estate sale adventures.

Lets Get Set Up

First things first, download and fire up the EstateSales.net app. Once you open it up, you’ll be able to set your location as well as a radius of how far you’re willing to travel for a sale. I like to set mine to 50 miles.

After inputting your radius, you’ll see a map with sales pinpointed in your area. But hold on to your hats, we don’t want to waste time visiting every single sale. The key is to filter the results to show only the sales that are most likely to have the pieces you’re interested in.

Filtering Your Way to Fabulous Finds

• Location, Location, Location: I love a good bargain, but I also factor in travel time. So, I usually filter the map to focus on upscale areas of town. These areas tend to have sales with higher-quality furniture and décor.
• Been There, Loved That: Did you visit an estate sale by a particular company that had a great selection and vibe? Many estate sale companies run multiple sales throughout the year, and some even have a sale each week! The EstateSales.net app lets you filter by company, so you can see if any of your favorites have upcoming sales.
• The Power of Pictures: A picture is worth a thousand words, especially when it comes to estate sales! The app lets you see photos from each sale. I use them to get a sense of the overall style and types of items that will be available. If I see a photo with a piece of furniture that makes my heart skip a beat, or a room with a similar aesthetic to my home, that sale jumps to the top of my list! Everyone’s style is unique, so this will be different for each of us.

Make a Plan

• Pre-Scouting: The EstateSales.net app will let you look 14 days out. Most estate sale companies will at least have their sale listed, but details like photos may not be fully uploaded until a couple days before the sale. Spend the beginning of your week identifying sales that might be of interest and favoriting them. You’ll get emails if any changes (like new photos) are made to the sale.
• Heart It: If you’ve found a couple sales you’re interested in, start combing through the photos. Take the time to open each photo, zoom in and scan it. The estate sale companies focus on the hot ticket items and larger items (they do not have time to take a photo of every single item in the house). My zooming in, you may see items in the background that are of interest. Favorite the photo so you can come back to it later.
• Last Minute Sales: This happens less often than not, but occasionally you’ll see one or two sales pop up late in the week. Make sure you’re doing one last scroll through the app on Thursday so you don’t miss anything.
• Game Plan: Some weekends there might be no sales, other weekends there may only be one that you like, but sometimes there will be many! This is where saving things you like comes in handy. Start comparing your favorite items, prioritize the sales and make sure you’re using your time wisely.

A few recent estate sale finds from top left clockwise: antique red books, french bouillette lamp, antique oil painting, sarouk rug

Beyond the App: Trusting Your Intuition

The EstateSales.net app is a fantastic tool, but there’s another ingredient to the estate sale hunting equation: intuition. Sometimes, a sale might not have the most glamorous photos, but there’s just a certain je ne sais quoi that tells me they might have hidden gems. Maybe it’s the location in a historic district, or the mention of a “downsizing designer.” These are my little nudges to go check out a sale in person, and often, they pay off!

So, there you have it, my friends! With the EstateSales.net app and a dash of intuition, you’re well on your way to scoring unique finds and crafting a collected home that reflects your personality. Now, get out there and start hunting!

Related:

Expert tips for successful antiquing adventures

Tips for buying vintage / used furniture

Have you ever bumped into an object and instantly craved to know its history, find similar styles, or even translate that fancy French label on the back? Well, fret no more! Google Lens is here to be your visual search companion, a digital magnifying glass that unlocks a world of information right through your phone’s camera.

Whether you’re a seasoned thrifter hunting for vintage gems, an interior design enthusiast seeking inspiration, or simply someone curious about the world around you, Google Lens can be a game-changer. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll delve into everything you need to know to become a Google Lens pro!

Unveiling the Power: What Can Google Lens Do?

Google Lens boasts a range of impressive functionalities, making it a versatile tool for various situations. Here are some of its key features:

• Object Recognition: Point your camera at an object, and Lens will identify it. This can be anything from a specific plant species to a type of furniture or a historical landmark. It even deciphers text, so no more struggling with foreign language labels!
• Similar Product Search: Found a dress you love on someone else or spotted a stunning lamp in a magazine? Capture it with Lens, and it will scour the web for similar styles you can purchase online.
• Text Extraction and Translation: Need to copy text from a physical document, business card, or even a poster in a foreign language? Lens can extract the text and allow you to copy it or translate it to your preferred language.
• Shopping Assistant: See an item you want to buy but can’t find any information about it? Lens can identify the product and provide links to online retailers where you can purchase it.
• Identify Landmarks and Artwork: Traveling or simply curious about a building or piece of art? Lens can provide historical information, reviews, and other relevant details.

Accessing Google Lens: There’s More Than One Way!

The good news is that Google Lens is readily available on most modern devices. Here’s how to access it depending on your setup:

• The Dedicated Google Lens App: This is the most straightforward option. Download the free “Google Lens” app from the App Store (for iPhone) or Google Play Store (for Android). Once installed, open the app and point your camera at the object you want to identify.
• The Camera Icon within the Google App: No matter what type of smartphone you have, you likely have the google app installed on it. Open the app and you’ll see a search bar, and then a microphone icon and a camera icon to the right of it. The camera icon is Google Lens. This is how I personally use Google Lens.
• Integration with Your Camera App: Many Android phones (including some Samsung models) have Google Lens built directly into the camera app. Look for the Lens icon (it might be a magnifying glass symbol or say “Lens” next to it). The exact location may vary depending on your phone model.

Using Google Lens: Mastering the Visual Search

Once you’ve accessed Google Lens, using it is delightfully simple! We’ll use a real example of a horse I found at an Estate Sale that was priced at $450. I ended up getting it for $70 because of Google Lens!

Here’s a step-by-step guide:

Point and Focus: Open the Google Lens app or activate the Lens feature in your camera app. Aim your camera at the object you want to identify or get information about. A white box will appear around the detected item for better focus.

Capture or Select: If using the dedicated app, you can either tap the shutter button to capture an image or use a photo already saved on your device by tapping the gallery icon. If using Lens in your camera app, capturing the image might happen automatically.

Analyze and Explore: Google Lens will analyze the image and display relevant information on your screen. This could include the object’s name, a brief description, links to similar products, translated text, historical details (for landmarks or artwork), or even solutions to math problems (depending on the complexity).

Advanced Tips and Tricks: Unleashing the Full Potential

Now that you’ve grasped the basics, here are some additional tips to maximize your Google Lens experience:

• Multitasking with Multiple Objects: Google Lens can often detect and analyze multiple objects within a single image frame. Simply tap on the specific object you’re interested in to get detailed information.
• Offline Mode (Limited Functionality): While an internet connection is ideal for optimal results, Google Lens can recognize some objects and translate text even when offline. However, the range of functionalities will be limited.
• Context Matters: For optimal results, try to capture clear and well-lit images. The more context you provide within the frame (like including the brand logo or surrounding details), the better Lens can understand and analyze the object.

Beyond the Basics: Google Lens for Inspiration and Everyday Life

Here are some creative ways to integrate Google Lens into your daily routine and fuel your design inspiration:

• Interior Design Inspiration: Spotted a gorgeous living room layout in a magazine? Snap a picture and use Lens to identify furniture styles, lighting fixtures, or even paint colors. You can then use this information to recreate the look in your own home.
• Thrifting Like a Pro: Stumbled upon a vintage treasure at a flea market but unsure of its value? Use Lens to research its origin and identify similar pieces currently for sale. This helps you negotiate a fair price and score amazing deals.
• DIY Projects and Upcycling: Have an old dresser that needs a refresh? Take a picture with Lens and find inspiration for paint colors, hardware updates, or even decoupage ideas. Trying to sell old clothes or home goods? Find similar items and corresponding pricing.
• Travel Companion: Visiting a new city and curious about a historical building? Aim your camera at it, and Lens can provide historical context, reviews, and opening hours.
• Learning on the Go: Spotted an interesting plant species on your hike? Use Lens to identify it and learn about its care needs.

The Future of Google Lens: A World of Possibilities

Google Lens is constantly evolving, and with advancements in artificial intelligence, its capabilities are expected to expand further. Imagine using Lens to translate menus in real-time, identify ingredients in a recipe, or even get detailed instructions on how to repair something around the house – all through the magic of your phone’s camera.

So, the next time you encounter something intriguing in the real world, don’t just walk by. Whip out your phone, activate Google Lens, and unlock a world of information and inspiration. With this powerful tool at your fingertips, the possibilities are truly endless!

Although we’re in the month of April, I feel like it’s Christmas because I’m THAT excited to share the reveal of the DIY picture frame molding in the dining room. This is a project that is on the 2024 project list but has also been on my mind since I moved into this house. I knew it would be perfect in a formal space like the dining room: it gives it that extra wow factor in my opinion. Today I’m sharing the reveal but I’m also breaking this project down with a step-by-step outline of how to add DIY picture frame molding.

So before we dive in, why add picture frame molding? This decorative trim adds architectural interest and instant sophistication to any room. It’s like putting your walls in a fancy frame. It’s high impact and a relatively friendly DIY that looks impressive.

Finding Your Vision

Before we dive into the nitty-gritty, let’s chat about the look you’re going for. Picture frame molding comes in various styles, from classic chair rails to more modern profiles. Start a pintrest board (here’s mine) for inspiration and get to pinning styles that make you pause. It will help keep you focused later on in the project when you may be facing decision fatigue. For my dining room, I was lucky to already have a chair rail in place and the top half wallpapered. That left me with minimal decisions to make for the actual boxes.

When choosing the molding size, consider the scale of your room. Wider molding makes a bolder statement and works well in larger spaces, while thinner profiles are perfect for cozy nooks. For this grand room I wanted something a bit wider and with some visual interest. I found a thicker piece of trim that had a pretty bevel to it, and that’s what I ultimately decided on. Also consider if you think you may continue this to other rooms. For me, I anticipate doing just that, so I’ll continue this particular style when the time comes.

Taking Measurements & Planning

Now, let’s get down to business! You’ll need to measure your walls to determine the layout and amount of molding needed. Before you get overwhelmed by this step, I’ll let you in on a little secret. The measurement that matters the most is the distance between the top of your boxes, bottom of your boxes and sides of your boxes. You want that to be consistent throughout the entire room.

A time saving measuring method I utilized was finding a “spacer” to help draw the boxes on the walls. I used a spare piece of flooring which was 3.5″ wide and that was my distance around all sides of each box. This pre-determined width helps create those perfectly proportioned “boxes” on your wall.

Drawing it Out:

Using your spacer of choice, grab a pencil and level to lightly sketch out the molding layout on your wall. This gives you a visual representation and helps ensure everything is nice and balanced. To get visual you can even put painters tape up first to visualize the thickness of the molding on your walls. I opted to skip this step because I felt confident and I’m also a bit impatient!

Measure the lines on your walls and add anywhere from 10-15% more to the linear total. This is how much you’ll need to buy from the hardware store.

Cutting with Confidence:

What you use to cut your trim will depend on the type of molding you select. An MDF style molding will work great with miter shears (I have these ones), and you won’t need any power tools. It will be as easy as using scissors!

For me, the molding I chose was oak which is a thicker cut of wood. Because of that, I needed to purchase a miter saw to do the job accurately. This trusty tool makes precise angled cuts for those crisp corners. Double-check your measurements and practice on scrap wood before tackling the actual molding.

Mock Up Magic

Here’s the magic trick that saves frustration: using painter’s tape, tape the cut molding pieces onto the wall to mimic the final design. This lets you visualize the layout, adjust spacing if needed, and ensure everything looks stellar before permanently attaching anything.

Nail It!

Time to secure the molding to the wall. A brad nailer is your best friend here. It uses tiny nails that disappear easily, leaving a clean finish. While some folks opt to add wood glue to their molding for an extra hold, I found the brad nails worked just fine. I used 1.5” brad nails and this Ryobi brad nailer was incredibly beginner friendly! Plus it’s battery operated!

Filling & Sealing:

Once the molding is in place, it’s time to tackle those tiny nail holes. Use a good quality caulk to fill the holes and create a smooth surface. Let it dry completely, then apply a light coat of spackle to camouflage any imperfections. Sand everything smooth once dry (I made the mistake of not sanding on one piece – make sure you don’t skip this step!). You’ll also want to run a bead of caulk along all edges of the molding for a seamless look.

Prime Time

Now for the painting prep! Apply a coat of primer to the molding and the wall where it meets the molding. This ensures even paint application and helps prevent the molding from soaking up all the paint.

Painting Perfection

Finally, the moment you’ve been waiting for: painting! Choose a color that complements your space – either match the wall color for a subtle look or go bold with a contrasting shade. For my room, I chose to use the same white (Du Jour by Valspar) as I have on the walls. I wanted the wallpaper to still have its moment in the overall space, and wanted a seamless look on the bottom half. Because I was working with raw wood, I used three coats on the molding for a nice, even finish.

Picture Perfect DIY Picture Frame Molding

Before I started, I had the sneaking suspicion picture frame molding could be addicting, and I’m here to tell you it is. It instantly elevates the space and adds a touch of elegance and architectural detail to the room. Given my house is a traditional style home, I think it feels timeless and classic.

This project was one where I advanced some of my skills. I’ve never done any type of woodworking, and never operated a power tool outside of a drill, so I’m having quite a proud moment right now. I have plans to add a chair rail and molding in the primary bedroom later this year (with some fun wallpaper on top) as well as beadboard in the laundry room, so I know this is just the beginning!

What do you think? Do you have picture frame molding in your home? Would you try this project? Let me know if you have any questions!

As of recently, I’ve been growing more and more obsessed with incorporating vintage finds into my designs. Not only does it add a layer of unique character, but it’s also way more sustainable than buying brand new. While looking for antique trinkets is one thing, hunting for hidden gems such as vintage furniture secondhand is an entirely different league and can be a bit daunting. That dusty thrift store chair might be a mid-century masterpiece, or it could just be…dusty.

A vintage wingback chair I recently scored at a local antique shop!

To be most helpful, I’ve put together this ultimate guide to help you unearth those hidden vintage gems, whether you’re a seasoned thrifter or a curious newbie. Lets break it down!

The Treasure Trove: Where to Look for Vintage Furniture Secondhand

• In-Person Adventures:
  • Thrift Stores & Consignment Shops: These are your classic hunting grounds! Goodwill, Salvation Army, local charity shops – they all offer a treasure trove of possibilities at fantastic prices. Be prepared to dig, but the thrill of the find is unbeatable.
  • Estate Sales: Calling all early birds! Estate sales often have hidden gems from a bygone era. Ask the seller about the history of the piece – you might just score a conversation starter with a fascinating backstory.
  • Antique Stores: For the curated experience, head to antique stores. Expect higher prices, but you’ll find well-maintained pieces with a higher chance of authenticity.
• Lets Get Online:
  • Facebook Marketplace & Craigslist: The online world is teeming with pre-loved furniture! Set search filters for your desired style and location to narrow things down. Be cautious of deals that seem too good to be true, and always arrange to see the furniture in person before buying.
  • Etsy: Think Etsy is just for crafts? Think again! Many shops specialize in beautifully restored vintage furniture like this Victorian sofa. The benefit here is the detailed descriptions and high-quality photos, but prices can be on the higher end and be prepared to pay shipping.
  • Ebay: An oldie but a goodie! Ebay offers a vast selection of vintage furniture, but be prepared to sift through a lot of…well, stuff. If you know what you’re looking for and exactly what it’s called, you can narrow down results quickly (For example this vintage writers chair by Ralph Lauren). Read descriptions carefully, check seller reviews, and never hesitate to ask questions.

Become an Inspector Gadget: Questions to Ask

• Before You Go: is this from a pet free home? A non-smoking home?
• What’s the history of the piece? Knowing the age and origin can help you determine value and authenticity.
• Are there any structural issues? Check for loose joints, wobbly legs, or cracks in the wood.
• Is the upholstery ripped or stained? Reupholstering can be expensive, so factor that into the price if necessary.
• Can I see the furniture in natural light? True colors and imperfections are often masked by artificial lighting.
• What’s hiding underneath?: Don’t be afraid to flip furniture over and look underneath. You want to make sure the bottom isn’t falling out. This goes for cushions too. Lift those up and check for stains!

I found this vintage sofa in St. Louis and am having a friend go check it out before I commit to purchasing. Stay tuned!

Caution! Danger Zones to Avoid

• Water damage: Warping, bubbling, or peeling veneer are all signs of water damage, which is a major no-go.
• Upholstery with strong odors: Pet smells, cigarette smoke, or mildew are difficult (and sometimes impossible) to remove.
• Missing parts or hardware: Replacing missing parts or drawers can be a real hassle. Hardware is easier to replace and is usually fun to update.
• Poor pictures: this is a double edged sword. Sometimes bad pictures might be the sign of a technology challenged person that just wants to get rid of something and is in a rush. Other times it can be hiding imperfections. Once you’ve engaged in a conversation with the seller, don’t be afraid to ask for more photos if the original listing is unclear.

Real life example: the listing photo (left – blurry) vs photos I requested (look at that oil spot!!!). This was nearly a disaster for me.

Secondhand Vintage Furniture Takeaways

Remember: When buying vintage, perfect isn’t always the goal. Embrace the character of a well-worn piece, but always be mindful of structural integrity.

Bonus Tip: Haggling is totally acceptable (and sometimes expected) at flea markets, estate sales, and even some thrift stores. Don’t be afraid to politely negotiate a better price!

I hope this guide equips you to confidently navigate the world of secondhand furniture. Remember, the hunt is half the fun, so happy treasure hunting! And if you ever find a mind-blowing vintage score, don’t forget to tag me on social media – I love seeing your finds!

Planning a DIY project or a remodel? When it comes to interior painting these expert painting hacks, tips & tricks will help save you time, money, paint faster & get better results. Bookmark this page and thank me later!

Expert Painting Hack #1: Baseboards

If your baseboards don’t have quarter round, you should have a slight gap in between the baseboards and your floors. Rather than tape off your flooring, you can save time by sliding a piece of acetate paper in between the baseboards and floors. Slide it with the paint brush as you paint for a smooth, no mess finish!

Expert Painting Hack #2: Avoid Cleaning Your Paint Brush

Planning on applying more than one coat of paint? If so, you can save time with clean up by wrapping your paint brush with plastic wrap. Leave a little bit of paint on the brush to keep it moist. Wrap paint brush in plastic wrap. Wrap an additional piece of plastic wrap around the base where the handle meets the body. The goal is to keep air out, which will prevent the paint from hardening. You can leave brushes wrapped for 3-5 days.

Painting Tip #3: Stretch the Life of Your Paint Rollers

If you’re painting more than one coat of paint on the walls or ceiling, you’re likely using a paint roller. You should plan on waiting at least 12 hours for your paint to dry to avoid any peeling, but you don’t necessarily need to use a new roller for each coat. Instead, wrap your paint roller in a plastic bag and tie off the end to prevent air. I usually like to wrap mine in 2 bags just to be safe.

Painting Trick #4: Skip Washing the Paint Tray

Same as your paint brush and paint roller, if you’re painting more than one coat of paint and are using a roller brush and paint tray, you can avoid clean up here too. Take a garbage bag and place paint tray inside. Twist and tie the garbage bag to prevent air from getting inside.

Expert Painting Hack #5: Get Crisp Paint Lines

Are you painting two different colors? Try this hack to get the crisp paint lines. Apply frog tape as you normally would and press firmly using a putty knife to seal off. Now before you paint the new color, you’re going to paint the base color ON TOP of the frog tape. This is going to completely seal the tape. Allow to dry and then paint your new color on top. Remove painters tape while the top coat is still wet. For a longer tutorial you can see a full blog post on this method here.

Have you tried any of these painting hacks, tips & tricks? Are there any that I missed? Sound off in the comment section below!

Related: Are you cleaning your paint brushes properly?

Today I’m thrilled to share what is quite possibly my most favorite space in my house: my walk-in closet! Or as I like to refer to it: my dressing room. This is what Carrie Bradshaw’s dreams are made of. A closet reminiscent of Cher’s closet on Clueless (minus the computer but maybe I’ll work on that!). It’s my Barbie dream closet. And my favorite thing about this space? I created it. Read on for the full story.

The Before: A Surprise Room

When I first toured this house, this room was a complete surprise. Left adjacent to the main entryway, the space was set up as a guest room. I believe that it was originally designed to be a home office, however with an extra bedroom upstairs, I had already decided on making my home office on the second level.

This room was not in the listing and was a complete surprise the first time I toured the house.

After touring the house further, I realized this “surprise room” backed up to the primary bedroom. I also realized the original master closet backed up to the primary bathroom. My wheels started turning immediately. I could combine the original closet and bathroom to create one giant bathroom. And I could turn this “surprise room” into my own private dressing room experience. I was sold.

Walk-In Closet Design

If you followed along with my primary bathroom renovation, you’ll remember this was the first thing I did upon moving in. It was truly inside of 30 days I had the bathroom completely gutted and renovated. During that time, I had the original doorway to the “surprise room” sealed off and a new doorway to my primary bedroom created. We repurposed the original trim and door to save on costs.

Sealing up the old doorway (adjacent to the entry) and creating a new doorway to the primary bedroom.

Having used California Closets for several projects at my previous house, I called on them again for the design. Being this was such a large space and I had just spent a healthy amount of money on the primary bathroom renovation, I was focused on the functionality of the design more than the bells and whistles.

The designer was really pushing for an island in the center of the room, but quite honestly I love having this space open for a clean walk way. You can see a couple of my design renderings I was reviewing below.

The Reveal Day

After California Closets had installed everything, I remember tiptoeing into my walk-in closet for the first time. I gasped. I truly could not believe it was mine. Never in my wildest dreams would I have thought I would own something as magical as this space.

During the design process I opted for a more open storage concept vs drawers and cupboards. It’s a personal preference but I love being able to SEE all my pieces. It makes deciding on an outfit each day such a fun treat.

The Upgrades I Chose and the Ones I Left Behind

The small upgrades I added were a valet rod which I highly recommend for many reasons. A sliding hook rod for belts and scarves made so much sense for smart storage(see similar here). Soft close drawers on the back wall are plenty deep for things like pajamas, workout clothes and under garments. And last but certainly not least are the plastic shelf dividers. These might look unnecessary but they have been so helpful for displaying and storing my handbags. I had some of these from the previous house, but you can buy them on Amazon (linked here – no need to pay more at a closet company).

The upgrades I passed on were the island as well as a hidden hamper. I couldn’t see taking up valuable real estate for either of these. I also opted for flat shoe shelves vs angled display shelves to save on costs.

My Walk-In Closet 6 years Later

This June will mark 6 years since I designed this room and I love that there’s still so much opportunity to add some personality. There are plenty of other spaces in the house to work on, but when I want my imagination to run wild, I let it drift into the closet and daydream about wallpapered ceilings, painted shelving and vintage rugs.

Sources:

Closet Design: California Closets

Acrylic Shelf Dividers

Pink Chandelier

Valet Rod

Hook Valet

Velvet Hangers

Wallpaper is a powerful design tool, capable of injecting personality and drama into any space. After wallpapering four different spaces in my house (the dining room, back entry, powder room and toilet room) I have one main takeaway to share. Meticulous wall preparation is crucial. When done correctly, it will make your installation a breeze as well as ensure your wallpaper is adhered properly. Let’s delve into the key steps on how to prepare walls for wallpaper installation.

How to Prepare Walls for Wallpaper Installation

Step 1: Assess Your Walls

• Strip the Drama: Remove existing wallpaper, light switch covers, and outlet plates. Eliminate any potential adhesion disruptors.
• Spot the Imperfections: Become a wall detective, searching for bumps, cracks, and nail holes. Spackle and sand these imperfections for a smooth, even surface.
• Cleanliness is Paramount: Grab a large sponge and a mild cleaning solution (detergent or vinegar work well) to banish dust, dirt, and grime – anything that could jeopardize adhesion. Remember, if your walls are dirty, the paste won’t properly adhere.

Step 2: Paint & Prime – The Essential Duo

• Painting Assessment: Evaluate your existing paint as well as your wallpaper of choice. Peel and stick wallpaper generally adheres best to eggshell, satin or semi-gloss paint. Traditional pasted wallpaper does best with an eggshell sheen. If it’s sound, and the right sheen, you might be able to skip this step. However, old, peeling, or glossy paint will not work. Skip to the next bullet if this is you.
• Prime Time: This is your secret weapon! Primer seals the surface, prevents stains, and creates a uniform base for the wallpaper.
  • Even more importantly, consider the color of your chosen wallpaper. If it’s a darker pattern, you can get your primer tinted. This will help you avoid any visible break in the seams.
• Drying with Patience: Remember, haste makes waste. Follow the drying times for both paint and primer before applying wallpaper. For primer, you can begin installation after 24 hours. Any type of paint needs at least 30 days to cure. Another reason to consider the primer option!

Step 3: The Final Inspection Before Wallpaper Installation

• Texture Talk: Slight texture might not be a dealbreaker, but for a truly flawless look, consider using joint compound to smooth out unevenness. Sand lightly after application to achieve a baby-smooth finish.
• Patching Up: Stubborn cracks or holes? No worries! Apply spackling compound, let it dry, and sand smooth. Repeat if necessary until you achieve a flawless surface.

Wallpaper Prep Supply Checklist:

• Spackling compound
• putty knife
• Sandpaper (various grits)
• Cleaning solution
• Sponge
• Drop cloths
• Painter’s tape
• Paint & brushes/rollers
• Wallpaper-specific primer & roller

Remember, how to prepare walls for wallpaper can be a bit different for everyone as every wall is unique. Adapt these guidelines based on your chosen wallpaper’s specific instructions. With meticulous preparation and these expert tips, you’ll create the perfect foundation for a flawless wallpaper masterpiece. Happy decorating!

When I bought this house in 2018, it came with 11 ceiling fans. ELEVEN! No offense against ceiling fans, but that really seemed like such a wasted opportunity to me. You see, I view light fixtures as artwork. They are the true jewelry of a room and in most instances, the only thing adorning your 5^th wall. This is an amazing opportunity to dazzle!

Today I’m rounding up my top four spaces where I believe the light fixtures act as a true work of art. Lucky for both of us, I have plenty of spaces left to finish so this is simply the beginning of a very long love story.

The Bubble Chandelier

We may as well start things off with a bang. When I was designing my dining room, I knew I wanted it to feel traditional but not stuffy. Once I settled on a wallpaper, I set my sights on finding a chandelier that was a statement but one that wouldn’t necessarily overpower the wallpaper.

The Talia Chandelier by Julie Neil for Visual Comfort truly strikes that balance in a way I’m not sure another light fixture could. It is like a cloud floating in the middle of my dining room and elicits a WOW from any newcomer that walks in. A true work of art, I’m still head over heels in love with it.

Priscilla

Everyone, meet Priscilla. She is the only light fixture in my house that is so special, I felt she deserved to be properly named. I did not stumble across Priscilla, I actively hunted for her.

I had been visiting my local Salvage shop here in Nashville quite regularly. In between those visits I’d find myself scrolling through their Instagram page. One day my scroll completely stopped when I found this beautiful blue light fixture. I went into the shop and showed them the picture, hoping to learn more about the light. I learned this specific light fixture is called a skyscraper pendant, and is from the 1930’s. Unsurprising, they are quite rare to find (and are priced accordingly).

Determined to find my own, I began to actively search Google. After several weeks, I finally found a small shop in Phoenix that had several of these exact blue skyscraper pendants. The best part? They were priced for 75% less than what my store in Nashville had priced theirs. I called the shop owner and to his dismay and my delight, the pricing was old and had not been updated. He honored the pricing and the rest is history. Priscilla is the perfect addition to my little breakfast nook.

The Golden Leaf

After I decided the cozy tv room needed to be color drenched, I also knew the previous boho beaded chandelier had to go (we all make mistakes, okay???). With the new dark paint as a backdrop, I felt this would be the perfect opportunity for something brass. It would pop against the dark ceiling but also compliment the other brass pieces in the space (the Primrose Mirror, Brass art lamp, etc).

Enter this beautiful golden leaf chandelier. It is eye catching but not dominant, and with 8 lights gives off plenty of brightness for the dark space. Who could ever want a ceiling fan in place of this beautiful light fixture?!

The Crown Jewel

Last but certainly not least is my little crown jewel, located in the living room. I purchased this light fixture for my previous house, and it was one of the things I insisted was coming with me. And it will continue to move with me shall I ever move again.

It really looks like royalty to me, with both its shape and it’s jewels throughout. I think this piece strikes the perfect soft balance for the overall living room aesthetic and couldn’t imagine anything else that could be more perfect in this space.

Light Fixtures as Artwork

Do you see what I see now? The ceiling is truly a canvas to use light fixtures as artwork. Yes, there are places such as bathrooms and kitchens where task lighting is essential, but in the majority of your spaces I hope you can see this as an opportunity to elevate your design. Good design does just that: it’s the balance between beauty and function. You can in fact have your cake and eat it too!  

On a recent trip to my favorite local antique store, I found myself reflecting on the moment when I stumbled across my current kitchen chairs. It was truly love at first sight: they had vintage flair and I knew they’d strike the perfect balance with my new round fluted table. But there was one problem: I had no idea if they would be the right height. With more and more people shopping used these days, the concept of mixing and matching furniture is here to stay (I called it in my 2024 trends predictions!). With that in mind, I wanted to round up a guide to chair heights for every table scenario. Keep this guide handy and you’ll be ready to buy with confidence when the time comes.

The Golden Rule: Room to Breathe, Legs, and Opinions

First, let’s establish a universal truth: comfort reigns supreme. While aesthetics are important, a chair that’s uncomfortable won’t impress anyone (not even your most design-obsessed friend). So, the number one key in your guide to chair heights lies in finding a chair that allows for comfortable legroom and proper posture.

Standard Table Heights:

• Most dining tables hover around 29-30 inches tall.
• For these tables, aim for chair seat heights between 17-19 inches.
• This leaves a comfortable 10-12 inch gap between your thighs and the table, allowing for legroom and easy scooting in and out.

Counter Height Tables:

• These beauties stand tall at 34-36 inches.
• Match them with chairs boasting seat heights of 23-26 inches.
• This creates a casual, barstool-esque vibe, perfect for quick meals or open-concept kitchens.

Bar Height Tables:

• Calling all cocktail enthusiasts! Bar tables reign supreme at 40-42 inches.
• Here, you’ll need chairs with seat heights of 28-30 inches.
• Remember, bar stools should offer good footrests for long chats and perching sessions.

Mixing and Matching: A Balancing Act

Now, let’s talk about mixing and matching tables and chairs. Choosing chairs and tables isn’t always about matching numbers. Mixing and matching can add personality (remember my dining room chairs + wallpaper?!), but keep these handy tips in mind:

• Think about legroom: Even if the seat height works, ensure the table apron (the horizontal piece under the tabletop) doesn’t impede your knees.
• Armchair adventures: Armrests shouldn’t bump the table, hindering comfort and access.
• Visual balance: Taller chairs with a standard table can look unbalanced. Consider chairs with higher backs or opt for a slightly taller table.
• Function first: If your counter is for casual meals, lower stools might be comfier. For taller tasks, go higher.

Guide To Chair Heights Conclusion

Remember, comfort is key! Sit in the chairs before you buy, ensuring good posture and legroom. And when in doubt, don’t hesitate to ask a design professional for help. With a little planning and these handy tips, you’ll find the perfect chair height to create a space that’s both stylish and comfy.

For me, the journey of transforming my house truly started with a paint brush. While I’ve been painting for decades at this point, it wasn’t until recently that I decided to paint the trim between the cozy room and back entry two different contrasting colors. With that decision, came learning how to get razor-sharp crisp paint lines. While I was a bit intimidated at first, I’m here to share it’s quite easy! I’m excited to share my tips with you today – let’s get to it.

Supplies You’ll Need

• Premium frog tape: Its enhanced adhesive forms an impenetrable barrier, ensuring zero paint bleed.
• Paint brushes: The exact type will depend on what you’re painting but you can’t go wrong with an angled brush. I like this one!
• Flawless roller: If you’re painting walls two different colors then you’ll need this. For trim you can disregard.
• High-quality paints: see my tips for choosing paint sheens in this post if you need help.
• Drop cloths

Step 1: Prep the Space

Before you do anything, you need to properly clean the area that’s going to be painted. If you don’t, your tape won’t adhere properly and you’ll have a mess on your hands. Use dish soap and warm water to wipe down the surface. Allow time to dry. Place your drop cloths around the work area.

Step 2: Mapping Out Perfection (Optional)

For stripes, intricate patterns, or unwavering straight lines, employ a level and pencil to lightly mark your desired design. Remember, these markings are temporary guides.

Step 3: Tape it Off

Apply your frog tape along your markings or directly on the surface. Press firmly, especially at edges and corners. In fact, I like to run a putty knife along the tape to ensure it’s sealed.

Step 4: Sealing the Deal

Here’s the Pro tip you’ve been waiting for. Before introducing the contrasting color, paint a thin layer of the basecoat over the exposed frog tape edge. This seals microscopic gaps and prevents paint migration. Allow for complete drying.

Step 5: Painting with Precision

Now, the moment you’ve awaited! Utilizing your brushes or roller, apply the contrasting color, ensuring it reaches and slightly overlaps the frog tape’s edge. Avoid overloading tools, as excess paint can lead to unwanted bleeding. Remember, thin coats applied in layers yield the most flawless finish.

Step 6: Unveiling Crisp Paint Lines

With wet paint, meticulously peel the frog tape back at a 45-degree angle. This maneuver guarantees a clean, crisp separation. It should be perfectly crisp! However should minor imperfections arise, employ a small brush dipped in the basecoat for wet-paint touch-ups.

If you were following along with my 2024 project list, you’ll remember seeing the back entry on the short list. This is a tinier space, but I definitely underestimated its significance last year when I was updating the cozy tv room. A true bridge between the dark moody den and the bright white kitchen, this space was dying for some attention. And today that’s just what it’s going to get as I share the back entry reveal with you!

The plan

Once I figured out that what was bothering me about the space was the starkness from light to dark, I knew the answer was finding the perfect wallpaper. I needed this space to marry the light kitchen (plus the renovation of the kitchen I haven’t designed yet!) with the dark moody tv room. There was no question that once I found Vinnie Blue by Sandberg, that it was the answer.

I put together a mood board just to be sure, and added in the fun bells and whistles like the brass finishes and the trim color, which really pulled everything together. I was so confident in my design that I didn’t even order wallpaper samples, I just placed the order! I would not advise anyone to do this by the way…it is truly a roll of the dice.

The prep

Although this was a small space, there was a lot of prep work involved. Since the walls were a light cream, and I was using a dark wallpaper, it behooved me to prime the walls with a dark primer. This would ensure no seams would show in the event things weren’t 100% perfect.  And since I’m a novice installer I felt it was a safe bet they would not be perfect.

In addition to the primer, this was also the time to pain the trim. Since I was wallpapering, things didn’t need to be perfect where the trim met the wall, which meant a little less prep work. I opted to paint the baseboards, ceiling, back door and transoms Accessible Beige by Sherwin-Williams in a Semi-Gloss finish. It’s the perfect color with the lighter colors in the wallpaper and I think will blend seamlessly into the new TBD kitchen design.

The installation

Once I was done with the paint it was time to wallpaper! This was my fourth time wallpapering and in hindsight I can say it was the best thus far. The quality of this paper by Sandberg was above and beyond, which really makes all the difference. It was heavy enough not to tear while I was placing it, but also not overly stiff and was easy to manipulate as needed.

The wallpaper installation itself took about 7 hours from start to finish. I used two rolls for this project with very little scraps to spare. There was certainly a moment when I thought I was going to run out of wallpaper but luckily I was able to make it work with what I had!

Finishing touches included a new brass switch plate cover and installing the cutest little brass bumble bee door knocker on the inside of my back door. Since the door itself is so plain, I thought this would be a fun way to jazz it up.

Back Entry Reveal

I’m absolutely in love with how the back entry turned out! Now when I sit in the kitchen or the cozy room and look towards this area, it is so pleasing to look at. My eyes want to stay on it, rather than move away from it.

It is still a bit surprising to me the impact such a small space can have on the overall flow of a home, but I agree that it’s all about details. The thoughtful details of this space and how it truly connects the rooms around it through bridging colors gives a more finished feeling to my downstairs floor plan. I hope you love it just as much as I do!

Sources:

• Wallpaper: Vinnie Blue by Sandberg
• Brass 3 Toggle Light Switch Cover
• Brass Bumble Bee door knocker
• CLJ x Loloi Runner Rug in 2’x5′ size

Last year I color drenched the cozy tv room a dark moody blue grey, and it’s been one of my favorite spaces to date. I remember when I first shared the concept of color-drenched rooms with some family and friends, I made heads turn (and not in a good way!). People thought I had officially lost it. I understood the concern – it’s a strange concept to wrap your head around if you’ve never seen it either virtually or in person.

Sources: Gold Leaf Light | Mirror | Candles | Brass Lamp

As I plot my next space to color drench, I thought I’d pause today to share more about the science of color drenching and why it works from a design perspective.

What are color-drenched rooms?

But first, what exactly is color drenching? Imagine taking one luscious color and painting your walls, ceiling, trim – all of it – the same color. It’s a monochromatic masterpiece, a color commitment that pays off in surprising and delightful ways.

Now, I know what you might be thinking: “Isn’t that a bit…much?” But trust me, color drenching isn’t just about making a statement (although it does that effortlessly!). It’s about unlocking hidden potential in your space and creating unique visual effects that will leave you saying “wow!” every time you step inside.

Sources: Brass Desk Lamp | Brass Bookends

Here are some of the amazing things color drenching can do:

• Spacious Surprise: Believe it or not, drenching a room in the same color can actually make it feel bigger! The uninterrupted flow of color blurs the lines between walls and ceiling, creating an illusion of expansiveness.
• Highlight architectural details: When everything wears the same color, architectural features like moldings and beams pop out, adding depth and character to your space.
• Create a serene escape: Monochromatic palettes have a calming effect, perfect for bedrooms, nurseries, or meditation corners. Imagine a tranquil lavender haven or a soft, sage-green retreat.
• Highlight Reel: Color drenching is a blank canvas and a calming backdrop that lets your furniture, artwork, and other design elements truly shine. It’s like hitting the spotlight on your favorite pieces! Play with textures, patterns, and furniture to add personality and avoid a flat look.
• Drama on Demand: Want to create a bold, show-stopping space? Drenching in a dramatic color like charcoal gray or deep navy blue is your answer. It’s a guaranteed head-turner that exudes sophistication and elegance.

Sources: Gold Leaf Light | Candles | Record Player | Mirror

Ready to take the plunge? Here are some tips for color drenching success:

• Consider the light: Natural light plays a big role. Choose lighter colors for north-facing rooms and richer colors for south-facing ones.
• Sample, sample, sample: Don’t just rely on the paint chip! Paint large swatches on your walls to see how the color interacts with your lighting and furniture.
• Think beyond paint: Don’t be afraid to extend the color onto curtains, rugs, or even furniture for a truly immersive experience.
• Accessorize with intention: Since your walls will be taking center stage, keep your accessories minimal and impactful. Play with textures and materials to add depth and interest.

Sources: Gold Leaf Chandelier | White Cement Box | Capri Blue Candle | Pearl Jam Coffee Table Book | Trust Coffee Table Book | Brass Desk Lamp

So, are you ready to embrace the bold and beautiful world of color drenching? Remember, it’s all about experimentation and having fun! So grab your paintbrush, unleash your inner artist, and get ready to be amazed by the transformative power of color.

One of the best designs a primary bathroom can have is a separate toilet room and I’m lucky enough to have inherited one. While I immediately went to work renovating the primary bathroom within the first month of closing on the house, I’ll admit that the toilet room was an afterthought. Now with a few years behind me, I’m excited to revisit this space and add some personality to what is essentially a powder room design.

Phase 1: the Band-Aide

The renovation brought the same classic white and black floor tile into this space, but not much else. After seeing the huge impact wallpaper can have in a small space (see the powder room flip) I knew I wanted to bring some wallpaper into this space.

It looks so sad doesn’t it?! You should have seen it before the renovation. It was extra sad!

Phase 2: Stripes for Days

Farrow & Ball’s block print stripe was the perfect choice, as it fit within the existing classic design of the overall space, but added some personality with the stripes and contrasted in a fun way with the checker floor tile. I used a dark grey grout on my floors and this wallpaper has a metallic silver stripe in it – they play off each other in such a fun way!

I had this wallpaper installed almost a year to the date, and while I absolutely love it, the space was still not feeling finished. Sounds like a job for some paint, doesn’t it? The cozy tv room is the first time I’ve painted my trim something other than white, and I think it’s safe to say I’m a bit addicted at this point. This space was begging for some colored trim and I had to try my hand at a classic black.

Phase 3: Painting It Black

Initially I was planning to paint the baseboards, door and ceiling, but after starting with the baseboards I didn’t think it was necessary to change the ceiling. I kind of want the eye to stop with the wallpaper and bounce around the trim and tile.

After two coats on the baseboards and three coats on the door, I couldn’t be happier with these changes. I swapped out the boring white switch plate for a stainless steel option and upgraded the toilet paper holder to this fantastic lift arm style from Delta. I think it’s safe to say this space finally feels finished. What do you think?!

Sources:

• Black Soft Close Toilet Seat
• Simple Human Plunger
• Simple Human Toilet Brush
• Delta Pivoting Toilet Paper Holder
• Stainless Steel Light Switch Plate Cover

I’ll be the first one to admit it: styling the perfect bookshelf is a lot harder than it looks. Flip through any magazine or take a scroll through Instagram, and the shelfies will look almost effortlessly designed. I can promise you that is not the case whatsoever and each shelf you aspire to create was meticulously planned.

After some trial and error over the past couple years (especially in the cozy tv room), I’ve found implementing a handful of design rules can be the saving grace for styling the perfect bookshelf. Follow along below as I share my design learnings.

Phase 1: Develop a plan

A perfectly styled bookshelf requires a little upfront planning. Two of the most important things to think about are your color palette and the style of the room the bookshelf is in.

Color palette: When deciding on a color palette, you want to take inventory of the rest of the room and tie in colors from your existing decor to keep a cohesive flow. If you want to play it safe, plan to use a white as your base color, one metal finish, one wood finish and 1-2 accent colors.

Style: Similar rule of them when considering the style of the bookshelf. If your living room leans more traditional, then your shelf décor should have traditional elements rather than sleek ultra modern pieces.

As an example you can see my living room, which is where one of my bookshelves lives (on the opposite wall). This is a traditional space, but has modern elements such as the couch, chair, table and lamp. My primary accent color is a rust / orange / brass, so I’ll look to that color family first when thinking about decorative accents for my bookshelf.

Bookshelf Décor

Whether you’re shopping your house, a thrift store or online, you’ll stay organized and on track by keeping the bulk of your items to a handful of categories.

• Books: the most obvious item on the list is books! As you gather books, consider various sizes. We’ll be stacking these, standing these and more later on. If you’re able to stick to hardcover books that will make things easier (more on that below).
• Picture frames: I love a larger picture frame with a wide matte. Consider frames of various sizes and options for both leaning against the back of the shelf as well as standing. If you’re able to add black and white photos to the frames, this will help keep things cohesive in your design.
• Vases: vases are a great way to add some variety into your shelves. With their various finishes you can implement glass, metal, and ceramic, bringing both texture and color into your shelf design.
• Plants: Whether they’re real or artificial, adding some plants onto your bookshelves will truly bring them to life. Consider how much natural sunlight your shelf gets and plan accordingly.
• Sculptural items: plan to add a couple fun sculptural items into the mix. This could be a bust (traditional style), marble links (modern), coral (coastal), etc. As you can see, let the style of your room and shelves guide these decisions to keep things cohesive.  
• Candles: candles are great fillers and can add some varying height to your shelves. Depending on the distance between shelves this may be more of a decorative decision and not necessarily a candle that you’ll be lighting regularly.
• Decorative boxes: decorative boxes are wonderful because they can be stacked which allows us to create some height variation. They can also provide an opportunity to bring different color and texture into the space.

Sources:

1. Brass Easel Picture Frame
2. Decorative Fashion Books
3. Marble Bookends
4. Brass Clawfoot Tray
5. Threshold Large Matte Picture Frame
6. Marble Decorative Box
7. Voluspa 3 Wick Candle
8. Antique Brass Mantel Clock

Sources:

1. Black & gold gallery fame by Threshold
2. Marble Tray
3. Modern Brass Bookends
4. Decorative Wooden Knot
5. Faux Stackable Books
6. Modern Vase by Leanne Ford
7. Chevron Decorative Box

Styling the Bookshelves

Once you have a handful of items gathered, it’s time to style your bookshelves! Be patient and have fun. You’re going to move things around and that’s okay. Below are some key design rules to help you style your perfect bookshelf.

 Start Big

Place your largest item(s) first and work backwards from there. This can be a large picture frame, or sculptural item. This is going to ground the shelves and we’ll work around them in the next steps.

The triangle method

Create triangles across your shelves using similar items. This method guides the viewers eye across the shelves and creates cohesiveness without us even realizing it. Look for triangles amongst your like items and shift them around if they’re not achieving a triangle.

Be Odd

A standard in all design is to cluster items in odds, as it’s more aesthetically pleasing. Place things in groups of three’s or five’s. We’re also going to use the triangle method above to create a variation in height while we’re doing this. Too many big items together look too uniform and too many small items can look cluttered.

Mix textures and colors

Too much of the same looks unnatural, while mixed pairings create more visual interest for the eye. Specifically when you’re adding books onto your shelves, consider removing the jackets of your hardcover books. This will allow for a more cohesive look vs having all the colors of the rainbow. Outside of books, aim to pair brass alongside a warm wood. If you’re working on a white background, add something black to create some contrast.

Your Perfect Bookshelf

A perfectly styled bookshelf is in the eye of the beholder and for many of us, happens over time. Don’t be afraid to step away for a moment and then come back to your bookshelf and rearrange items. As you add new books to your collection, or discover some new vintage treasures, your bookshelf may need to shift and that’s okay. These “rules” are not rules at all and are truly meant as a wireframe to help you plan and design your perfect space. Happy styling!

The first project I’m checking off the 2024 project list is the back entry! While this is a small area of the house, it’s the main entry point coming up from the garage and gets a lot of foot traffic. Sometimes it’s also the first impression of the house!

While this space was not originally on my radar to beautify, I’ve recently had a change of heart while enjoying myself in the cozy tv room (especially during Christmas!). For context, the back entry is the bridge between the tv room and the kitchen.

The Current Back Entry

Last year when I color drenched the tv room a dark moody grey blue, I had to make a design decision about where to stop the dark color on the door casing that adjoins the back entry. I couldn’t wrap the dark blue paint the entire way around the trim, as the back entry is a warm cream color and the trim around all three door openings is white. I also didn’t want to paint the back entry the same dark color, as I thought that would be too jarring to walk into. In hindsight I don’t think there was a right choice. The contrast between the cozy tv room and the neutral back entry is just too vast.

The New Back Entry Plans

While I’m just starting to plan out my inspiration for the kitchen renovation (the biggest item on the 2024 project list) I can confidently say I’ll be incorporating a mix of woods, brass, beiges and creams, all of which will have a warm undertone. This is important because the back entry connects to this space.

Knowing that, I felt adding a wallpaper into the back entry that included the same dark moody grey blue, as well as some warm beiges would be the perfect bridge to the space. I’ve landed on this beautiful wallpaper by Sandberg. I love how there are two dark blues in the background of the paper, with some warm greens and pinks in the floral design. This paper will also compliment the other organic wallpaper choices I’ve made in nearby spaces like the dining room and powder room.

Sources: Brass Light Switch Plate | Wallpaper | Light | Brass Bee

Originally, I anticipated just carrying the lead grey paint color from the cozy tv room trim into the back entry. However after the wallpaper arrived and I opened it up (it truly felt like Christmas by the way) I was so drawn to the warm greens, beiges and pinks. I’m changing my plans and am going to opt for a warm beige on the trim and possible back entry way door. I think this will compliment any direction I decide to go in the kitchen and will also be a true bridge from a dark moody room to a warm collected kitchen. I’ve used Accessible Beige by Sherwin-Williams in the past and think it’s the perfect match.

Finishing Touches

I’ll top things off with a vintage light fixture similar to the ones I’ve pinned here for inspiration. I’ve just started a search on facebook marketplace and am hoping to give new life to something old. Lastly, I’ll change out the light switch plate to a brass finish.

I’m still deciding on which color to paint the ceiling, but I know it will be changing from it’s current white to either the dark Lead Grey (cozy tv room) or Accessible Beige (the new trim color). What do you think?

Today we’re taking a jaunt down memory lane, as I share the one of the first things I decided to do after buying this house: a primary bathroom renovation. There’s nothing quite like biting off more than you can chew, and I can say I confidently achieved that by renovating the primary bathroom with little to no design experience. What was I thinking, you might ask?

The Before

I wish I had more “before” photos, but I’ll do my best to fill in any gaps from the pictures I do have. The existing primary bathroom was definitely original to the house, and had not been updated (nor cleaned) since 1989. The square purple tiles in the shower and garden jacuzzi had dark grout that was not by design.

The vanity was so low I was bent over perpendicular to brush my teeth. And the shower was so narrow it was impossible to shave my legs without getting my hair wet. The jacuzzi tub also let out a fun mildew smell when you turned it on (and the water turned to brown).

The design plans

It was not a question. This space needed updated immediately. While I certainly could have made do with redesigning the space as is, I decided to take this renovation a step further by really blowing it out (literally).

The original bathroom dimensions measured 10 feet wide by 9.5 ft deep. However, as luck would have it, the primary bedroom had a long narrow closet which backed up directly to the existing bathroom. It also had a spare room on the other side of it.

Knowing this, I decided to knock down the wall in between the bathroom and original closet and create one large space for the bathroom. This would allow me to get more creative with the overall design and not be restricted on space. By knocking down the closet wall, the primary bathroom would now be 10 ft wide by 14.5 feet deep.

The color palette

One thing I’m so thankful for, is my decision to stick to a classic bathroom color palette. I went with a traditional black and white bathroom schematic, choosing a simple black and white checkered tile with dark grout. A classic white subway tile would line the shower, and brass fixtures would add in pops of color throughout the space.

The shower

 The biggest pain point in the original bathroom was how narrow the shower was. With my new added space, I designed a large walk in shower that is 6 ft wide by 5 ft deep. You can quite literally have a dance party in it, and then take a rest on the built in bench afterwards.

A beautiful glass door with a black grid adds a pop of interest to the shower space and I splurged on a complete shower system by Delta with a wand and jets. It’s in a beautiful brushed brass finish and I do not regret the splurge one bit.

The vanity

The master bathroom already had a double vanity in place and since I liked this feature, I didn’t feel the need to rearrange the room. I kept the vanity where it was originally located but swapped out the original for a new 72″ black vanity (that’s the proper height) and updated the hardware to brass pulls. A quartz countertop was the perfect stone choice for a high traffic area like a bathroom vanity and matching brass fixtures from Delta complimented the shower system directly behind the vanity.

Sources: Vanity | Mirrors | Faucets | Towel Rings | Brass Knobs | Brass Trash Basket | Floor Tile

To break up the design, I found these beautiful sconces at Anthropologie which I felt complimented the classic style of the room and I added black round mirrors above each sink. Having lived with these for several years, I’m ready to swap these out for a more rectangular mirror that works better for the space. I was on a tight budget when I did renovated this bathroom and these mirrors have worked hard for the dollars!

The tub

I’ve always wanted a clawfoot tub! This was a big part of the design and I think it fits so beautifully into the classic style of the space. I do have a handful of regrets in hindsight…

I wish I would have chosen a tub that had white feet vs the oil rubbed bronze. While these almost look black, they are not black. So as part of a mini-refresh on this space I’ll be exploring ways I could potentially paint these a lacquered white, or even a brass.

Additionally, I wish I would’ve dared to mix metals in this space and the clawfoot tub would have been the perfect opportunity. While it’s not something I currently have planned to swap out, it’s something I’m going to learn from for the future.

Storage

The original master bathroom had the tiniest linen closet behind the entry door, so when I knocked down the original shower, I gave up that space. With the extra space adjacent to the shower, I was able to perfectly fit a gorgeous armoire from Anthropologie into this nook. This built in houses bed linens, towels, toilet paper and fun things like bath bubbles and salts.

Sources: Floor Tile | Towel Hooks | Glass Shower Door | Subway Tile | Delta Shower System | Storage Cabinet

Toilet Room

Where’s the toilet? One of the blessings of this space was having an existing toilet room! I think this is such a wonderful feature for any bathroom and am so thankful this space already had this baked in. Since the initial renovation I’ve tried to add a little more personality into the space and wallpapering the toilet room has been one of the best updates thus far.

Sources: Floor Tile | Wallpaper | Toilet Paper Holder

I’m going to take it one step further in the coming weeks and paint the trim, ceiling and door of the toilet room a pretty black color matched to the wallpaper. I think it will really pop and tie the wallpaper and tile floor together in a beautiful way. After painting the trim in the powder room and cozy room last year, I can’t stop thinking about more places to incorporate non-white trim and am so excited to try my hand with black.

Full Circle

Are there things I would do differently if I had the chance to design this space all over again? Absolutely. But am I incredibly proud of what I designed in my head and brought to life? 100%.

Sources: Floor Tile | Vanity | Brass Knobs | Delta Faucets | Towel Rings | Trash Basket | Round Mirrors | Striped Wallpaper

Stay tuned for some little updates to this space throughout the year, as well as some follow-up thoughts on what I’d do differently the second time around.

Sources

4″ x 6″ Subway Tile

Black and white floor tile

72″ Black Vanity

Light Sconces (sold out)

Round 24″ Black Vanity Mirrors

Delta Vanity Faucets

Brushed Brass Vanity Knobs

Delta Linden Towel Rings

Delta Cassidy Towel Hooks

Shower Door

Shower Faucet System

Anthropologie Black Storage Cabinet

Striped Wallpaper

Delta Pivoting Toilet Paper Holder

Brass Trash Basket

It’s funny how cyclical life can be sometimes. Every year, I get so excited about the holidays for many reasons, but deep down I think I’m welcoming a break from renovating and DIY-ing. I’ve always made myself stop house projects to enjoy the holidays with family, savor the holiday décor and get out of the house. At the same time, each year around mid-December I start dreaming up the following year’s project list. This year was a little bit different, because the 2024 project list daydreaming started at the beginning of December.

There is so much I want to accomplish this year, but I had to reel myself back a bit and try to make this as realistic as possible. In no particular order, here’s my condensed 2024 project list.

Dining Room Molding

The dining room has seen a lot of change over the past year and we’re almost complete at this point. As I was setting the space for Thanksgiving this past year, I couldn’t help but think about how traditional the space is and how it’s really  missing molding below the chair rail.

Molding is on my list for at least two additional projects this year, so I plan on diving into some tutorials and getting familiar with power tools. I’ll likely start my molding journey with the dining room because it’s a smaller amount of molding that will need cut. Stay tuned for more on this space!

Laundry Room

Okay, everyone has this one room and this one is mine. The laundry room is the catch all space. The unsightly room that just can’t seem stay organized no matter how hard I try. I need to start moodboarding color schemes for this space but my initial plans include adding a chair rail and wainscoating to the bottom 2/3 of the space, and then wallpaper on the top 1/3.

I recently laid these floorpops just to make the space a little less of an eyesore when the door is open, and while I’m happy with them, I’m daydreaming about tile for this space. Learning how to tile has been on my list and I’m fantasizing about a classic penny tile with a fun border.

Back Entry Way

Last year, I color drenched the cozy tv room and ever since then, I’ve been questioning my decision on where I stopped the color around the doorway casing. I think I should have gone in a little bit deeper.

Well, wandering minds can’t be helped. I’m officially going to carry the color into this back hallway trim, and then wallpaper the space. We’ll add a new light, paint the ceiling and this existing rug I purchased last year will still be perfect. I’m still a TBD on whether or not I’ll paint the back door the same trim color, or if I’ll attempt to strip it down to it’s natural wood finish.

My Office

Similar to so many, back in 2020 I officially converted an upstairs extra bedroom into an office space for myself. Since then, there’s no going back as I love being able to separate work from my other living spaces. However with the new flooring, I want something a bit more elevated and refined vs the peel and stick banana leaf wallpaper I hung.

I plan to add wallpaper to all four walls, paint the trim / doors / ceiling an actual color, swap out the light fixture and add in a new rug. I’m truly so excited to convert this space and feel more inspired while I’m doing work at home.

Primary Bedroom

Similar to a lot of spaces in my house, the primary bedroom has gotten several band-aides since I bought the house nearly six years ago, however it’s time for a full makeover. I plan on fully color drenching this space, adding in new blackout curtains, updating the bedding, switching out the nightstands and adding a cozy rug. Once I fully moodboard everything out, we’ll see if the pink fringe chandelier will still work for the new space.

Exterior

This has been bugging me for years. At one point in time, it must have been trendy to match your trim color to the color of your brick mortar. I’m itching to update the exterior trim color and am leaning towards a dark charcoal grey.

I’ll be photoshopping this in the coming months and would love to have this completed in the first half of the year. For better or worse, the exterior work is going to cause a domino effect of work, as there’s some wood rot along some of the casing and I’ll likely need new gutters. And if you subscribe to my monthly newsletter, you’re already aware about the drama with the garage door. So I’ll be getting a new one of those as well this year. We may as well landscape while we’re at it, right?!

The Kitchen

Am I saving the best for last? Maybe. The previous owners had partially updated the kitchen by adding granite counter tops and painting the existing cabinets. Since I’ve moved in, I’ve scraped the popcorn ceilings, updated the cooktop, replaced the refrigerator and dishwasher, and added new hardware to the cabinets.

As much as I had hoped that would get us to a good place with this kitchen, we’re just not there. After the new hardwood flooring installation, and all the updates to the surrounding spaces like the cozy tv room, dining room and powder room, the kitchen needs to catch up to the rest of the house.

I’ve updated the little breakfast nook with a new table, some antique chairs and a beautiful antique art-deco light fixture. This tiny space that feels completed is giving me just enough of a tease that I’m finally ready to attack the larger portion of the room.

Since the kitchen is truly the heart of the home, I’m not taking this design lightly. Expect to see more in the coming months as I work through a few final big decisions I’m struggling with. In the short term, expect to see some progress on the back entry way to give me a little momentum as I work up to these bigger areas.

If you’re like me, Christmas decorations are magical during the weeks leading up to Christmas, but something happens shortly after December 25th. I feel like I need everything packed up in order to have a fresh start for the New Year. This year I really upgraded my Christmas décor, and that means it’s time to update my Christmas storage and organization. Follow along as I share my best tips and tricks to keep everything tidy and ready to go for next season!

Proper Christmas Storage Systems: Bins and Bags

First things first, ditch the cardboard boxes. Invest in sturdy, stackable bins or fabric bags. Clear ones let you see what’s inside (no more rummaging for the tree topper), while opaque ones are perfect for hiding sentimental treasures that might stay tucked away.

Ornaments

Fragile baubles deserve a spa day, not a landfill. Line compartmentalized bins with tissue paper or bubble wrap, and nestle your ornaments inside. Pro tip: sort by theme or color for next year’s decorating breeze. Don’t have fancy bins? No worries! Repurpose cardboard egg cartons or shoeboxes – just be gentle!

For less fragile ornaments, utilize clear plastic totes with lids. If you have a lot of ornaments, create a bin for each color to stay even more organized.

Garland

No Christmas is complete without a swanky garland, but storing them can get overwhelming. Here are two genius hacks to keep your garlands gleaming:

• Coil and Conquer: Gently coil your garland and secure it with twist ties or ribbon. Place garlands in a wreath storage bag with an interior clip for extra protection. This method is perfect for artificial garlands or those made with delicate materials.
• Hang it High: If you have the space, hanging your garlands is a fantastic option. You can use sturdy hooks or nails in your garage, attic, or even a closet. Just be sure to cover them in fabric bags to keep dust and pests at bay.

Wreaths

Wreaths add a touch of festive cheer to any door, but storing them can be tricky. Here’s a tip to keep your wreaths looking their best:

Similar to garlands, invest in heavy duty wreath bags to properly protect wreaths. Hang wreath bags on a hook to keep wreaths off the floor and prevent them from being smooshed.

Holiday Dishes

With holiday dishes usually only seeing the light of day for one month out of the year, I don’t like to waste precious kitchen real estate on them. I carefully wrap each piece of dish ware in bubble wrap and with holiday towels, then store in a large clear tote with a lid. This particular tote stays on the floor of the closet as it’s so heavy.

Christmas Tree(s)

Artificial trees? Disassemble them like a pro, wrap branches in paper or fabric, and secure them in their original box or in a heavy duty tree bag. Real tree needles? Vacuum like your life depends on it, then invest in a sturdy tree bag for next year’s shedding extravaganza.

Can you believe everything on the left fit on the right?!

Remember, Christmas storage and organization is not about perfection, it’s about sanity. This is about making next year’s decorating a joy, not a chore. So invest in the clear bins, grab some pretty labels, and spend the time organizing your items. It will make decorating for the next Christmas a truly joyful experience!

These homemade cinnamon rolls are soft, fluffy and are topped with a gooey cream cheese icing. They rival a Cinnabon and for good reason: I spent months tweaking and perfecting the recipe. Through some trial and error, I’m happy to share the final recipe with you today, as well as some tips and tricks that will help ensure they turn out perfect.

Ingredients:

For the dough:

1 packet (1 Tablespoon) active yeast

1 teaspoon sugar

1 cup whole milk (heated to 110 degrees F)

½ cup sugar

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 eggs (room temperature)

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon salt

4 ½ cups bread flour

For the filling:

½ cup brown sugar

½ cup sugar

2.5 Tablespoons cinnamon

1 Tablespoon regular white flour

4 Tablespoons unsalted butter (melted)

For the frosting:

2 oz cream cheese

2 Tablespoons unsalted butter

1 Cup powdered sugar

½ teaspoon vanilla

Some tips from the test kitchen:

Before we get started, I want to share some tips that I’ve uncovered through trial and error. I’ll preface by saying this is very much a science project, so if it’s listed a certain way, I encourage you to follow the instructions and not make substitutions.

Tip 1: Bread Flour

I initially tried this recipe with regular flour and I will say, bread flour makes all the difference. It makes the rolls less dense, and gives them that fluffy and moist texture that we all desire. Spring for the bread flour.

Tip 2: temperature matters

Listed above in the ingredient sections are two important notes about the temperature of two ingredients. Eggs: make sure these are room temperature. Milk: heat this in the microwave for a minute or until it reaches 110 degrees F. This will make for a bettering proofing process with the yeast.

Tip 3: the filling

We’ll get to this in the instructions below, but I want to call out two important items when it comes to your cinnamon roll filling.

1. Including 1 Tablespoon of flour in this mixture will help it bond with the rolls rather than fall to the bottom of the pan.
2. Brush your butter onto the dough. While you can certainly mix the butter into the overall filling mixture, I find that brushing it directly onto the dough helps everything stick. It’s like a primer for your dough!

Instructions:

Proofing Yeast

1. In the bottom of a mixing bowl, add one packet of active yeast (or 1 Tablespoon), 1 teaspoon of sugar and 1 cup of whole milk heated to 110 degrees F
2. Stir these ingredients together in the mixing bowl with a spoon
3. Let rest for 10 minutes
4. If your yeast properly proofed, it will have small bubbles in it and will have expanded in the bowl.

Creating the dough

1. Add the following to the mixing bowl with your proofed yeast:
   • 2 room temperature eggs
   • 6 Tablespoons unsalted butter (softened)
   • ½ cup sugar
   • 1 teaspoon vanilla
   • 1 teaspoon cinnamon
   • 1 teaspoon salt
2. Mix the above ingredients with a whisk attachment until blended.
3. Once blended add 4.5 cups of bread flour.
4. Mix using a dough hook attachment until fully blended. When the dough is blended properly, it will form into a ball with the dough hook and the sides of your mixing bowl will be nearly clean. This is the sign of great dough!

Let The Dough Rise

1. Shape dough into a ball and place in a greased mixing bowl
2. Cover with saran wrap and place two additional dish towels over the top and sides of the mixing bowl. We want to keep air out, and keep moisture in to allow for the dough to rise.
3. An extra trick I like to do which promotes great rising is to place this bowl and towels on top of a heat vent.
4. Allow dough to rise for 2 hours

Create the cinnamon roll filling mixture

1. In a small mixing bowl, combine the following ingredients:
   • ½ cup brown sugar
   • ½ cup sugar
   • 2.5 Tablespoons cinnamon
   • 1 Tablespoon regular white flour
2. In a separate dish, melt 4 Tablespoons unsalted butter and set aside. I’d suggest doing this after your dough is done rising.

Creating the Cinnamon Rolls

1. Once dough has risen (it will have doubled in size) remove from bowl and place on a greased surface. I like to spray some olive oil spray or Pam on my surface
2. Spend a couple of minutes working with the dough – both kneading it and punching it.The goal is to get all of the air bubbles out of it
3. Begin rolling your dough into a rectangular shape of 12” high x 24” long
4. Once a rectangle is formed, paint the melted butter onto your dough with a brush
5. With your hands or a spoon, sprinkle the cinnamon roll filling mixture across your buttered dough until the mixture is gone

Roll up!

1. Place your fingers under the bottom side of your rectangle and gently lift the edge from the surface.
2. Starting with a hand on each edge, roll your rectangle tightly.
3. Continue rolling dough until it’s formed one long roll.

Cutting the rolls

1. Using a ruler, make an incision in the dough log every 2 inches
2. If you’ve properly measured this, you’ll end up with twelve rolls total
3. Place nine rolls in a 9” x 13” baking dish
4. Place the remaining three rolls in a bread pan (or if you cut an extra roll place four in an 8”x8” baking dish)

Rising Round 2

1. Cover both baking dishes with saran wrap and dish towels
2. Place back over a heated vent for at least another hour
3. The rolls will expand and rise, doubling and almost tripling in size

Baking

1. Bake cinnamon rolls at 350 degrees F for 20 minutes on the center rack
2. Once rolls show any sign of browning on the edges it’s time to remove them from the oven
3. Place pan on a wire rack to cool

Note: As each oven is a little different, I’d suggest setting a timer for 17 minutes the first time you make these, and see how far along your rolls are.

Cream cheese Frosting

1. Whip together:
   • 2 Tablespoons softened unsalted butter
   • 2 oz Philadelphia Cream Cheese
   • ½ teaspoon vanilla
2. Once blended, add 1 Cup powdered sugar and mix until combined.

Frost cinnamon rolls and serve warm!

If you’re enjoying these beyond the first day, I find warming them up in the microwave for 20 seconds makes them taste like they’re right out of the oven!

As we inch closer and closer to Christmas Day, I’m soaking up every moment of enjoying the Christmas decorations around my house. The house has seen some big updates this year, most notably the hardwood floors and staircase, so I felt it was only fitting to spring for some new Christmas décor this season. Follow along as I walk you through four of my favorite spaces.

The Staircase

The staircase is the first thing you see upon entering my home and I wanted it to make an impression while being welcoming. I created a sweeping design with Afloral’s Norfolk pine garland and its the perfect whimsical welcome for this space. I topped the design off with some pretty vintage looking burgundy ribbon and tied some brass bells to the newel post for an extra layer of texture.

Shop the Holiday Staircase

Christmas Decor in The Dining Room

The dining room saw plenty of action over Thanksgiving, and I honestly had no plans to decorate it. But then I remembered I had my grandmother’s red table cloth. And then I was gifted a pretty white poinsettia. And then I recalled I had some red taper candles and an extra ceramic Christmas tree. Before you knew it, I was adding another two pieces of Crate & Barrel’s prelit garland above my windows and this space was a festive treat for the eyes.

The formal living room

The formal living room is right off the main hallway, and it gets some of the best natural light in the house. I thought it was only fitting to carry the Norfolk pine into this space in a few different spots. The mantel with a sweeping asymmetrical design, matching Norfolk pine wreaths on the windows topped with khaki velvet ribbon, and a pretty but simplistic table arrangement for the coffee table.

Shop The Holiday Living Room

By keeping the garland simple, my new flocked tree was really able to shine in the space and it is decked to the nines with vintage ornaments, both from my grandparents as well as from local antique stores I’ve been frequenting. I can’t wait to continue to collect more and more vintage glass ornaments over the coming years to build my collection.

The cozy Tv room: ultimate cozy christmas vibes

Last but certainly not least is the cozy tv room. This space got a makeover earlier this year when I decided to color drench the entire room. And while painting this space for the third time was the last thing I wanted to do, I kept telling myself how amazing it was going to look at Christmas. Lets just say it has wildly exceeded my expectations.

After a ton of research on how to pick the perfect Christmas tree, I splurged for a 7.5′ prelit Sanibel Spruce from Balsam Hill, and she is a beauty! I also added more of my favorite pre-lit garland from Crate & Barrel on the mantel and chose to create a beautiful draping design for this space.

Two matching cedar wreaths from Anthropologie adorn each window with leftover burgundy ribbon and I love seeing them pop when I walk into this space throughout the day.

I created a monochromatic village on my bookshelves by flipping the books around and painting the ceramic houses a creamy white. Pine tree candles are sprinkled throughout and my great-grandmother’s reindeer are staged on the center bookshelf. I added remote controlled tea lights in each house and love how easy it is to turn the village on and off every night. Remember plugging everything in and having cords everywhere? These tea lights have made everything so much more seamless and clean!

Parting Thoughts on this year’s Christmas decor

I went above and beyond with Christmas décor this year, but I have to say I don’t regret any of it. In fact, I’m already looking forward to sprinkling in holiday cheer into more spaces next season. The primary bedroom, kitchen and main bathroom are all on the list for spaces I hope to spotlight in a bigger way.

Whether you go big for Christmas, or prefer to keep things simple, I hope you’re able to take a quiet moment to yourself over the next few days to enjoy your home for the holidays. There is something so special about the warm glow of a Christmas tree, the scent of the perfect pine candle and the nostalgia of decorations passed down throughout the years.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to you and yours. Thank you once again for being here and I can’t wait to continue this journey with you in 2024!

There are two types of people in this world: those who are excited to buy gifts for others and those who don’t know where to start. I fall into the former category myself, which is why it’s so fun for me to put together holiday gift guides. Whether you need one more item to finish your shopping for the year, or you haven’t even started yet, don’t worry. My 2023 holiday gift guide has you covered!

2023 Holiday Gift Guide

Teenage Girl

The Ultimate Drawing Set: for the budding artist

Stanley Thermos: the “it” mug in the “it” color

LuluLemon Crossbody: so chic

Glam Station: every girl needs one!

Revlon 2-in-1 hairdryer styling brush: she’ll feel like she just left the salon

Teenage Boy

Carbon Fiber Wallet: protect his identity while looking cool

Victrola Record Player: what’s old is new again

Virtual Reality Set: it’s another universe

Star Projector: his room will be the coolest

Electric Scooter: no license, no problem

For Dad

Hyperice Heat massaging Patch: perfect for lower back pain and sore muscles

Personalized leather tote bag: stylish and from a small business

Book of Dad Jokes: buy at your own risk

Smart Phone Magnifier: this is a projector that magnifies his smart phone

Stadium Blueprints: so many stadiums available! Pick his favorite and have it framed for him.

For Mom

For the Bird Lover: A Smart Bird House with built-in camera

Glass Trinket Box: fill this with family photos

Luxurious Hand Cream: so important during winter

Warmies: slippers you can warm up in the microwave and they smell like lavender

Personalized Book: fill in your memories for her

Significant Other: To Him

3 burner Camping Stove: for the adventure seeker

Cozy UGG Slippers: warm and stylish

A Smart Mug: may his coffee never be cold

Grooming Tools by Manscaped: The Lawn Mower + the Weed Wacker

Theragun Massage Gun: for his sore muscles

Significant Other: To Her

Fuzzy Slippers: memory foam criss cross faux fur slippers. So cute!

A silk pillowcase: her skin will thank you

Ninja Ice cream & gelato maker: a treat for her and for you!

Lounge Set: these are the softest and the prettiest!

Herringbone Italian Throw: pick her favorite color – this one’s a keeper!

Stocking Stuffers

Drum Stick Pens: for your teenager or adult who still acts like a teenager

Apple Air Tags: throw them in your luggage, on your keychain or anything else you’re always losing

The Birdie: a personal alarm that attaches to your keychain. Every teenager needs one!

JBL Portable Mini Speaker: take those tunes anywhere!

Karaoke Bluetooth Mics: one for me and one for you. Watch out Beyonce.

What’s better than decorating your mantel for Christmas? Decorating two mantels! Yes that’s right, I am lucky enough to have two working fireplaces in this house, which was one of things that hooked me from the beginning. Last week, I shared my symmetrical draped look in the cozy tv den. To keep things interesting, I decided to try my design skills at an asymmetrical look for my second fireplace. My goal was to layer the garland and create a whimsical and effortless look.

Shop Norfolk Pine Garland

In the past, I’ve set my garland on top of the mantel, and didn’t really change much of the other décor out. This year, I knew I could up the ante and have been pinning ideas for months. Since my living room flows right off the main hallway, I thought it would make for a holistic design to continue the Norfolk real touch pine garland which I used on the staircase, into this room. The living room also gets a significant amount of light, and with a flocked tree in the corner, I didn’t think we needed to illuminate the mantel as well. Sometimes simple is better!

Follow along for a step-by-step tutorial of how to layer garland on the mantel, and some of the tricks I implemented along the way.

How To Layer Garland on the Mantel

Anchoring with Command Cord Bundlers

When I installed the hemlock pine garland in the cozy den, I chose to drill into the wood mantel and install cup hooks (a full tutorial is coming soon!). While this mantel is also wood, I wanted to try using command hooks first before drilling.

I purchased four Command Cord Bundlers from Amazon, which is what I needed to get the job done – this mantel is huge!

Prepare the surface

Before you start peeling and sticking, it’s important to prepare your surface. The three most important steps to follow are:

1. Wipe your mantel with water and a rag. Do not use cleaning solution, as this will weaken the bond of the adhesive on the command strips.
2. Use denatured rubbing alcohol and wipe the cleaned surface. This will ensure the surface is ready to bond.
3. Turn OFF your fireplace. That’s right – if your fireplace is on, it won’t allow the adhesive to properly dry. Keep the fireplace off until at least 24 hours after installation.

Place your cord bundlers

Your garland design will dictate how you space out your command bundlers. Are you creating a symmetrical design? Then place the command strips evenly. Are you adding extra garland on one side of the mantel (or both?)? Double up the command strips in those areas to help even the weight.

Place your cord bundlers onto the cleaned mantel and press firmly on top. Wait 1-2 hours to allow for proper bonding time before hanging your garland.

Use a base garland

A little secret from the design world: use a less expensive base garland to start. It’s like a little petticoat. No one needs to know what’s underneath, but it will fill all the gaps for you. I chose to set my base garland right on top of the mantel and it covered the cord bundlers. This is a great economical garland to use as a base if you don’t already have one.

Layer Garland on the Mantel

For this look, I used 4 of the 5 foot Norfolk Pine real touch garlands. I started at one end of the mantel, bundling with the cord bundles as I went, and kept hanging the garland on the mantel from there. Layering with some overlap was essential to achieve a fluid look. Two pieces covered the entire front of the mantel. From there, I used the last two pieces to drape in a dramatic fashion on the right side of the mantel.

Wire the garland

To avoid gaps, it’s best to use some floral wire and gently tie the garland that overlaps together. Things will adjust over time and this will help avoid any gaps in between your pieces.

Adjust strands

Fluff the garland, move some pieces or even layer in some additional stems to hide the command bundles, floral wire and anything else that may be unsightly. This 50 pack of faux pine stems is a great option!

Balance the mantle

This will depend on your overall design, but because I went for an asymmetrical look, I needed to balance the other side of the mantel with some additional décor. I opted for two cream knit stockings from Anthropologie. On top of the mantel, I left my four vintage candlesticks and the picture of my grandparents in a gold frame with large cream matte. I added a couple more brass candlesticks to the right side just to fill the space above.

The final look captures the whimsical and effortless look I set out to achieve! For my first year hanging garland on the mantel, I’m so pleased with how everything turned out. What do you think? How do you decorate your mantel? Drop me a comment below and let me know!

Sources for this project:

Norfolk Pine Real Touch Garland (4 pieces) *you can use code ALLISONSKIFFDOTCOM to save 15% off your order of $100 or more

Command Strip Cord Bundlers

Floral Wire

Cream knit stockings

Gold frame with matte 4”x6” photo

Let’s be honest, choosing the perfect Christmas tree can be overwhelming and sometimes you can be paralyzed by all the decisions that go into it. I should know, I just went through it this year! But I’m here to tell you it doesn’t need to be difficult. Today I’m sharing all of the things I considered before buying my new tree(s). Follow along and no matter your home size or style, I have everything you need to consider for choosing the perfect Christmas tree.

Real vs. Artificial:

The age-old debate. Real trees are undeniably magical: that piney scent, the fresh-cut sap, the Charlie Brown-esque hunt in the lot. But let’s be real, they’re also messy, high-maintenance divas that drop needles like confetti and leave you vacuuming tinsel till February.

Enter the artificial tree – the ever-loyal, low-maintenance old faithful. No shedding, no watering, just effortless Christmas cheer year after year. But can they really capture the magic?

Well, I’m here to tell you they can. This year, I snagged two artificial stunners that are basically the Beyonce and Jay-Z of Christmas trees:

• 7.5′ Flocked Vickerman: Now, this one’s a showstopper. Picture a winter wonderland straight out of Narnia, dusted in the most glorious faux snow. It’s like having a silent disco in your living room – all the sparkle, none of the sticky glitter aftermath.
• 7′ Balsam Hill Sanibel Spruce: This beauty is the epitome of classic Christmas. Lush, full branches, a perfectly symmetrical cone shape, and space in between the branches to go deep with ornaments. It’s like having a perfectly coiffed tree in your living room, minus the demands of keeping it alive.

Green vs. Flocked:

See, this is where things get personal. Are you a minimalist Scandinavian kinda person? Go green – it’s clean, classic, and pairs well with pops of color. But if you’re all about the maximalist Martha Stewart life, flocked is your jam. It’s instant winter wonderland, perfect for piling on ornaments and twinkling lights.

Full vs. Thin:

Full trees are the crown jewel of the bunch: bold, voluminous, and ready to command attention. They’re perfect for grand spaces and statement decor. But if your living room is more of a cozy nook, a thinner tree is your soulmate. It won’t overpower the space and lets your ornaments shine.

Height Matters (But Not Always):

Ceiling height is key: measure, measure, measure! But don’t be afraid to think outside the box. A towering tree in a small space can be dramatic and whimsical. And a mini tree on a pedestal? Instant chic.

The final Verdict on choosing the perfect Christmas Tree

There’s no one-size-fits-all answer. It’s all about your personal aesthetic and lifestyle. Embrace the artificial revolution or stick to your real tree roots. Go full-on Extra with a flocked masterpiece or keep it classic with a timeless green. Just remember, choosing the perfect Christmas tree means picking the one that makes your heart sing when you turn on the lights.

If you’ve been following along, it will come to no surprise to you that I’ve decided to reward myself with some new holiday garland this year. After enduring the messiest renovation with new hardwood floors and a new staircase to boot, I’m ready to show it all off. I decided to splurge on Afloral’s Norfolk Pine real touch garland and it does not disappoint. Follow along as I share my method for how to hang garland on a staircase.

Step 1: Measure

Before you open up your wallet (or browser) you need to decide how much garland you’ll likely need. This will also depend on how you hope to hang it. Do you want long drapey loops or do you plan to wrap it around the banister. What about the newel post, or posts? Are you wrapping those as well? Take time to measure your staircase and add a little extra to be safe.

Personally, I knew I wanted to simple whimsical look, and wanted my garland to be in swoops. With a banister measuring 9 feet, plus an extra 4 feet of railing on the landing above, I opted for two 15 foot pieces off the Norfolk garland. This will allow for draping and a little overage.

Step 2: What type of Garland? Full or Thin?

Right alongside measuring is deciding what kind of fullness you want your garland to have. Do you want a fuller garland or a dramatic one? Keep in mind that many of the pictures you see online or in catalogues are really multiple garlands layered. If you want a fuller look, you may need to double your original calculation. Do you want lit garland or unlit? Is your staircase near an outlet? Run through these questions before you start browsing,

Again, I wanted a whimsical, romantic and dramatic look. For the first year, I’m going to stick with a single layer and see how it goes. As this is an investment for me, I can always build upon it in years to come if I decide I want a fuller look. And unfortunately, my outlets are not in a convenient spot in relation to the staircase, so we’ll be moving forward with an unlit staircase for the time being.

Step 3: Placement

It’s time to place your garland! Start at either the top or the bottom and properly anchor your first piece to the banister. I’m opting to use clear zip ties, but you can also use green pipe-cleaners.

Once you’ve anchored your first piece, its time to decide when to drape or wrap your garland. The way I’ve decided to do it is by counting steps and then dividing. From my 9 foot banister, I have 12 steps from the bottom to the top. Since I want a dramatic look, I’m going to do a long drape. I’ll drape the garland every 4 stairs, which will leave me with 3 big loops.

Step 4: Newel Posts

Generally, you should plan to double up your garland around the newel post. I have an extra 5 foot garland that I’ll be tying onto the base of my last piece, which will help create a fuller look at the bottom.

Step 5: Put a bow on it!

Or something else! Deck your garland out with long velvet ribbon, dried oranges, a string of bells or something else of your liking. My mom used to place crystal ornaments throughout hers and when the garland was lit it made such a pretty twinkle.

I ordered some burgundy and khaki velvet ribbon from amazon and created long bows for my garland. I ran a piece of floral wire into the back of the bow and then secured this to my zip ties on the banister. When it’s time to take it all down, I’ll leave the floral wire attached for next year!

Step 6: The bells and whistles

As an extra touch, I’m stringing some pretty bells at the base of the garland, which is at the newel post. They add an extra layer of visual interest and help keep the eye moving. Plus, they have a layer of nostalgia to them!

I’m so happy with my new garland, and while it was an investment, I know I’ll enjoy this timeless look for years to come. I might even continue to build on it! The look is simple and effortless and provides such a warm greeting upon entering the front door. I couldn’t be happier with how it turned out!

Shop the Look:

Real Touch Norfolk Pine 180″ Garland

Real Touch Norfolk Pine 60″ Garland

Velvet Burgundy Ribbon

Brass Bells

Today I’m sharing something I wish I would have done years ago: protecting my leather sofa. My beautiful camel colored leather couch from West Elm was delivered the week I closed on my house and unfortunately there was so much chaos that I never got around to properly protecting it. Had I done so, I would have been able to prevent sun damage as well as general wear and tear from everyday use. Luckily, it’s still in decent shape, and by learning how to properly clean and condition leather furniture, I’ve been able to bring it back to life.

Before vs After (no photo editing)

Follow along as I guide you through a quick and easy tutorial on how to clean and condition leather furniture using a leather cleaning and conditioning kit. This is an important step in keeping your leather furniture looking and feeling its best, and it’s something that should be done regularly.

Why is it important to clean and condition leather furniture?

Leather is a natural material that can become dry and cracked over time, especially if it’s not properly cared for. Cleaning and conditioning your leather furniture helps to remove dirt and grime, and it also helps to keep the leather hydrated and supple. This will help to prevent the leather from cracking and peeling, and it will also help to keep it looking its best.

How often should you clean and condition leather furniture?

How often you need to clean and condition your leather furniture will depend on a few factors, such as how much use it gets and how dusty your home is. In general, it’s a good idea to clean and condition your leather furniture every 3-6 months.

What you’ll need:

• A leather cleaning and conditioning kit. I highly recommend the Chemical Guys’ leather cleaning kit. It’s colorless and odorless, and does a great job!
• A clean microfiber cloth (like these ones)

Instructions:

Step 1: Vacuum

Remove all cushions from your furniture (seating and backrest cushions) and set aside. Using your vacuum hose extension, vacuum on the base as well as in all crevices and seams. We don’t want to put our clean cushions back in the dirt!

Step 2: Apply cleaning solution to cushions

Shake the cleaning solution well, and spray 2-3 pumps directly onto your microfiber cloth. Gently wipe along the tops and sides of each cushion, making sure to get in between any piping and seams. The effort you put into this step, will ensure the conditioner properly sets into the leather during the next step.

Clean cushions one at a time, and set aside to dry. Generally 30-60 minutes of drying time is sufficient.

Step 3: Condition

Apply three lines of leather conditioning treatment to a new microfiber cloth. Gently massage onto the cushion, using circular motions. Work across the entire top side of the cushion, and then move along to the sides and seams.

Set each cushion aside to thoroughly dry.

Step 4: Condition again!

If this is the first time you’re treating your leather furniture, I’d recommend a second set of conditioning. Repeat the above steps, and allow cushions to dry for 2 full hours before placing back onto the frame of the sofa.

Step 5: Treat the couch frame

While your cushions are drying, we’ll repeat the same steps above to the frame of the couch. Work along the outside and inside of the arm rests, the back of the couch and also along the bottom front.

Repeat each step above.

Step 6: Assemble couch

After two hours of drying time, you can place your cushions back onto your couch. I would recommend waiting at least 24 hours before putting pillows, throws, etc. back onto any surface. This will ensure everything has had a chance to set in and do its job.

Conclusion

Learning how to clean and condition your leather furniture is an important step in keeping it looking and feeling its best. By following the simple steps above, my camel colored leather couch is buttery soft and will last me for years to come. If you have leather furniture, trust me that it’s worth the small investment in a leather cleaning kit to protect your bigger investment.

While I’m no stranger to hosting Thanksgiving, this will be my first time hosting both sides of the family which I’m very excited about. I love to cook, and especially love the excuse to make recipes I don’t get to make every day. Plus there’s just something special about those Thanksgiving staples like my mom’s stuffing, or a simple pumpkin pie. On the heels of finishing the dining room, I knew I wanted to make this Thanksgiving a little bit “extra,” and there’s no better place to do so besides setting a festive fall tablescape.

I’ll admit it: after the excitement wore off, the idea became a little overwhelming. Yes I can set a table, but no I have not created a centerpiece from scratch, nor does everything fit a certain color palette. Deep breaths. I set out to my go-to source for inspiration: Pinterest and after plenty of browsing, a few detours, and many pins, my vision started to take shape. As I know firsthand how overwhelming this can be, I wanted to share my top tips for designing your Thanksgiving table.

4 tips for designing a fall tablescape

Don’t overthink the color palette

If you’re like me, when you think about autumn or Thanksgiving, you immediately think of colors like oranges, reds and yellows. While you should certainly plan to incorporate some of these colors into your fall tablescape, there are no hard and fast rules that these should be the only colors on your table. In fact, quite the opposite can be true.

Turning to a color wheel for some show and tell, you can see how certain colors compliment their primary counterparts. Apply this to your fall tablescape and think outside of the box a little.  

Florals come in many forms

While adding in some fresh fall flowers is certainly an option for your Thanksgiving table, there are other ways to incorporate botanicals that can really make a statement. This can include a floral tablecloth, or can even come in the form of candles like these pine cone candles. Or look to your dinnerware for inspiration: there are some amazing sets of flower patterned china at deep discounts across facebook marketplace, estate sales or vintage shops.

Go for Gold

Gold flatware that is! I wanted to add a layer of warmth to the table, and before I knew any of my other elements, I knew that I wanted gold flatware. I found this amazing 40 piece set on amazon for a steal of a deal.

From there I browsed for some serveware additions that would make a statement and these large gilded spoons from Anthropologie were just the ticket. Don’t overthink getting an entire set that matches. Mine is a combination of pieces I’ve purchased throughout the years and I think it adds a layer of character to the table.

Add in Ambience

Whether it’s through small votive candles or large tapers of varying heights, sprinkle some candles throughout your table when and where you can. They add a layer of sophistication and so much warmth to the space. Turn on some background music (last year SiriusXM had an amazing Thanksgiving playlist) and the mood will be set for your guests to enjoy.

While the idea of designing the perfect Thanksgiving tablescape might seem overwhelming, it’s all about layering in small pieces that capture the spirit of the autumn season. Happy hosting!

Sources

Tablecloth – McGee & Co

Garland

Gold flatware

Gold serveware – sold out (see similar)

Cloth napkins

Napkin rings – vintage. (see similar)

Brass candlesticks – vintage. (see similar)

White taper candles

Pine cone candles

China – vintage. I’d suggest visiting your local thrift store!

With all the updates to the house this year, especially the floors and staircase, I decided this would be the year I would splurge on some new holiday garland. Ever since last year, I have been eyeing the Norfolk Pine garland and I finally decided to “add to cart” this holiday. I’ll admit, it was a bit pricey. To stretch out the enjoyment from my investment, I decided to repurpose some of the garland and create a DIY autumn centerpiece for my Thanksgiving table.

My goal of this project was to keep it relatively low cost, so many of the items you’ll see in this tutorial have been scavenged one way or another! Ha! With that being said, I think you can easily substitute your own elements into this project to make it suit both your style and your budget.

Here’s everything I used to create my DIY Autumn Centerpiece:

1. Long strand of garland. I purchased the Norfolk pine garland and love the realistic look and texture of it. While it’s definitely an investment, I plan on using this for the rest of my life.
2. Magnolia leaves. I was able to pluck some from a nearby tree for free!
3. 2-3 oranges
4. Brass candlestick holders and taper candles. I picked up several vintage brass candlestick holders of varying heights at my local antique store.
5. Additional candles. To plus up the autumn theme, I layered in these pine cone candles from Crate & Barrel. There’s also a wonderful battery alternative on Amazon and they look like they have a hint of gold to them!

Again, feel free to mix and match different items that fit your style and scheme. Now that we have our supplies, lets get to work assembling the autumn centerpiece!

Prepare the Dried Oranges

We’re going to make the dried oranges via the oven. It’s a very simple process but you will need to be available to flip the orange slices every 30 minutes for several hours.

1. Preheat oven to 200 degrees
2. Thinly slice 2-3 oranges. I used 2 oranges for this piece.
3. Place oranges on parchment paper on a baking sheet
4. Bake for 2-3 hours, turning every 30 minutes. I ended up doing 3 hours, as my oranges were juicer than expected.

Your house will smell amazing! I personally think it smelled like butter!

Place the garland

Add your garland to the center of the table. Mine was a fuller piece, so if you prefer this look, you may want to layer 2-3 pieces of garland to achieve this look. Play around with it and have fun! You can always start over, add or remove as you keep going.

Layer the Magnolia leaves

Once you have your magnolia leaves, wipe them off or wash them to ensure you’re not bringing bugs or dirt into your home (and onto your table!). Weave them into the garland, placing them underneath, in between and on top. Alternate sides of the garland as you work your way from end to end. I chose to place my leaves brown side up, as I really like the contrast and I think it adds a nice autumn color palette to the table.

Bring on the brass!

As I mentioned above, I was able to find quite a haul of brass candlestick holders at my local antique store. This is a more cost effective alternative to buying new, if you don’t already own some. Look for varying heights and shapes, as it will add visual interest to your arrangement. When it came time to add the actual candles, I chose to keep it simple with long white taper candles.

Some brass candle stick ideas if you want to buy new:

Layer in additional candles

To further the autumn theme, I added in these cute pine cone candles throughout the centerpiece. These come in three sizes and are so cute! If you’d like a battery alternative, which will last you a lifetime, these are a great option!

Place your Oranges

Once your orange slices are properly dried out and cooled, layer them throughout the garland. This does not need to be complicated. Simply place them down the table, alternating sides of the garland.

Closing Thoughts

I truly did not know what to expect with this project, but I’m so glad I gave this DIY autumn centerpiece a try! Being able to extend the enjoyment of my new holiday garland, makes me feel better about the investment I made. I love that I was able to transition it into an autumn theme at a relatively low cost, and will be able to enjoy it for years to come!

Tell me: what would you put in your DIY autumn centerpiece?

If you enjoyed this, please be sure to sign up for my monthly newsletter. I share personal anecdotes, monthly highlights and favorite things, exclusively from me to you. Thanks for visiting and following along!

The dining room flip has been one of my most exciting projects to date in this house, however I truly reached a sticking point when it came time to make decisions about the furniture. If you remember, I got a bit tripped up with the design plans for the dining room because of this black dining room table. I loved the table itself, but the black finish didn’t fit the style of the new dining room, nor would it go anywhere else in the house. Rather than buy new, I wanted to see how I could transform my existing dining room table.

I’ve always loved the look of a pecan dining room table, but they can be so expensive! So when I heard about Retique It, I was intrigued and started thinking about the idea of transforming my black dining room table to a pecan finish rather than buy new. I’ll admit, I was a little nervous at first, but the process was actually really easy and I was amazed by the results.

If you’re not familiar, Retique It is a product that includes actual wood fibers and allows you to refinish furniture without the need for sanding. It’s available in a variety of wood finishes ranging from light to dark, and also comes with a graining kit. What’s even better, it’s is non-toxic and water-based, and also has a low VOC content. This means it emits very few volatile organic compounds into the air making it safe for use around children and pets.

After even more online research about the product, I opted to buy the Retique It Table Top kit from Amazon. This kit included everything I needed for the project and also came with very clear instructions, as well as links to watch more online videos. I strongly recommend you determine how much coverage you need and order the corresponding kit. I ended up needing 16 oz of the Wood’n Primer to coat my table three times (more on that below).

Here’s how I transformed my dining room table:

Step 1: Clean Your Surface

Wipe your surface with a damp cloth to remove any dirt or debris. Go over it a second time using either Dawn dish soap, Krud Kutter or denatured alcohol + water. The instructions for this product were very clear not to use products with TSP, as this will prevent the wood based coating from adhering properly.

Step 2: Lightly sand or scuff

While the promise of Retique It includes no sanding, I was working with a pretty lacquered surface. I decided to give it a light sand just to be sure the product would properly adhere. I went over all surfaces (top, sides, legs, edges) with 220 grit sandpaper, then wiped down again with another round of Dawn dish soap.

Step 3: Prime Time

I opted to order the table kit, which came with Retique It’s own paint brush. This brush is designed to create a slight wood grain, so while I have plenty of my own paint brushes I went ahead and used what was provided in the kit. I started with the Wood’n Primer that was included in the kit and painted a thin surface on all areas of the table. My recommendation would be to go light on this step, as you can always go over it again with another coat. With the first coat application, you can make shorter brush strokes and just focus on getting all areas covered. Let each coat dry at least two hours.

Since my table was black, I decided to put not one, but two more coats on the table. During your last coat of Wood’n Primer, work in smaller plank sized sections and apply the product with long brush strokes. Remember, you’re creating the look of wood grain which is continuous.

I will warn you during this phase, it’s going to look worse before it looks better. Trust the process and keep going.

Step 4: Grain It

This step is totally optional and I think it’s really to each their own. The kits come with two graining tools, which are large rubber stamps that mirror the look of wood grain. I’m opting not to do this, as I’d like a smooth looking finish and also feel there’s enough grain from the brush strokes, but if you do want to do this you’ll apply a thin coat of your Wood’n Stain in plank sized sections. Pull the graining tool through while the coat is still wet. If you mess up, just go over it again!

Step 5: Wood’n Stain

Using the same brush as my primer, the next step was to apply my Wood’n Stain in pecan finish. How many coats you decide to apply is truly up to you and the look you’re going for, but it can be anywhere from 1-3 coats. Each coat of Wood’n Stain will give you a deeper finish. For me personally, I decided to do two coats of the Pecan Wood’n Stain on the entire table and then one additional coat of the Gel Stain in Pecan just on the top of the table.

Just like the Primer, make your final coat in long brush strokes in the same direction for a seamless grain look. After using both the Wood’n Stain and the Gel Stain, I will share I prefer the Wood’n Stain. I found the Gel to be very runny and difficult to manage. If you have the option, I’d recommend finding a kit or purchasing the Wood’n Stain specifically. It goes on just a touch thicker.

An important note for those that have used other stains before: you do not wipe this stain like others. You simply apply it and let it dry for 2 hours in between coats.

Step 6: Seal It

We’re almost done! We just did all of this beautiful work, so now it’s time to protect your surface by sealing it. My kit came with a jar of Tripletique which is a waterbased epoxy alternative. The instructions state to stir this, not shake it, and apply thin layers until the entire container is finished. Drying time between coats is again 2 hours.

Conclusion

While I was initially hesitant about how to transform a black dining room table to a wood finish, I couldn’t be happier with the results. My old black dining room table is now transformed into a brand new pecan table. It cost me less than $100 and was a project I was able to complete inside of a weekend.

I would definitely recommend Retique It and feel it’s a product for any level of DIY experience. Just take some time to watch the tutorials in advance, or practice on an old piece of wood or furniture if you’re unsure.  What do you think? Would you try this project? If you have questions drop them below in the comments section!

Before

After

Sources:

Retique It Table Top kit (pecan)

If not ordering a kit, the below items are available individually

Retqiue It Wood’n Primer

Retique It Gel Stain in Pecan

Wood Graining Tools

Tripletique Water Based Sealer

*this post is not sponsored. This is an honest review of a product I purchased myself and would recommend to others.

I am beyond excited to share a dining room progress report with you today, as it’s turning out even better than I had ever dreamed! Last week I shared how my initial vision for the dining room did not pan out as I originally planned, but I trusted the process and kept designing until I felt one of my mood boards “stick” so to speak.

While part of this installation happened quite some time ago, I want to go back in time and walk you through the process of some of my decisions along the way. My hope is that by sharing my journey with this space, you’ll be armed with some things to consider for your next room flip.

Wallpaper

Wallpaper can be a tricky thing. All too many times, I’ve fallen in love with a pattern online, only to be disappointed with how it translated in person. What we all hope for, is it will match up fairly well from onscreen to real life. In a rare case, the opposite will happen, and the wallpaper will be even more beautiful in person than on the screen. This was one of those moments.

The minute I pulled the first roll of this Cole & Son wallpaper out of the box, I was mesmerized. The print has texture to it, and almost appears like painting brush strokes, and the quality of the paper is simply beyond. I was already excited about the choice, but seeing and holding it in person just took everything to another level.

While I am a true DIYer at heart, I made the executive decision to hire this job out. I know, I know. While this isn’t the norm for me, I was able to find a wallpaper installer in my area that had amazing reviews and charged an incredibly reasonable rate. Weighing the cost of this particular wallpaper (it was expensive!!!), and the fact I waited a bit longer for it to arrive from London, I decided it was worth the extra expense to ensure it was installed perfectly. Looking back, I’m so happy I did this.

Lighting

After I landed on the wallpaper, the lighting was the next design decision that followed. The wallpaper really feels like I’m bringing the outside in, so I wanted something that complimented that theme. The initial plan was this tiered chandelier by Visual Comfort. I loved the cascading globes, and the fact they were a frosted white would play so nicely with the palette that was currently unfolding with the wallpaper. However, I couldn’t get past the little crystals on the rod. I know it’s a tiny detail, but it’s one I would notice and likely fixate on.

Following the same theme, I continued my hunt until I found what I knew was “the one.” The Bubble Chandelier by Visual Comfort is what dreams are made of. I truly wish I had a picture of the size of the box this was delivered in. It was MASSIVE! The globes were in protective Styrofoam all organized by size, with a chart that showed how to assemble.

Along the same theme as the wallpaper, I opted to hire an electrician to install the cage of the chandelier. While I’ve learned how to rewire lighting on my own, I wanted to be able to stand back and look at the height from the table this would be. Again, super happy I just paid the $100 for the electrician to install the frame of the light. I was in charge of assembling all of the glass globes, which was actually quite fun! I enjoyed seeing it come to life and it really is a piece of artwork.

Dining Set

You’ll remember that during my mood board designs, the furniture was the biggest hang up for me in this space. I spent quite a bit of time browsing through dining set combinations, and at the end of the day, I cannot justify ordering something brand new. Especially when most of the pieces I’ve found definitely are not real wood. On the other hand, a black dining table just isn’t going to work in this space (or any other one in this house).

Since I really do love the actual dining table (the criss cross pattern and the shape of the legs are my favorite), I’m going to try my hand at refinishing it using Retique It. This process is currently giving me some stomach flips, as I admittedly do not know what I’m doing, but I’m deep into some YouTube tutorials and am determined to figure it out.

In the meantime, I found some adorable bentwood chairs on facebook marketplace from the 1950’s and immediately scooped them up! The upholstery is a blue that matches the wallpaper exactly! I mean, what are the odds right?! There are only four of these chairs, so I plan to find two additional chairs for each end of the table. I’m taking my time with this, as it’s not incredibly urgent at the moment.

Parting Thoughts

The dining room progress is certainly taking its own shape, and I’m really learning to love the idea of letting the design process unfold the way it should. While we still don’t know what the finished result will actually look like, I feel confident it’s going to be even better than I had originally hoped.

In the coming days, I’ll be sharing the process of flipping my dining room table which will come with the good, the bad and the ugly. But hopefully there’s no ugly to report! All in all, I’ll include an honest review of the process and finished result. Following that, we’ll be primed for a full reveal of the finished dining room, just in time for Thanksgiving!

Today, I’ve got a fantastic project that will instantly elevate the look of your space: painting interior trim. Whether you’re a seasoned DIY pro or just starting your home improvement journey, this step-by-step guide will help you achieve a polished and professional finish. Let’s dive in!

Why Paint Your Interior Trim?

Before we get our hands dirty, let’s talk about why painting interior trim is such a game-changer. Trim, whether it’s baseboards, crown molding, or window casings, is like the icing on the cake in your home’s design. It adds depth, character, and a touch of elegance to any room. When you paint it, you have the power to:

1. Refresh and modernize your space: Over time, trim can become scuffed, faded, or discolored. A fresh coat of paint can breathe new life into your home.
2. Create visual contrast: Choosing the right trim color can make your walls pop and draw attention to architectural details.
3. Highlight your decor: Painted trim can frame your furniture and artwork, making them stand out in style.

Now that we’re on the same page about the magic of painted trim, let’s go over the essential steps to get started:

1. Gather Your Materials

For this project, you’ll need:

• Painter’s tape
• Drop cloths
• Sandpaper (medium and fine grit)
• A putty knife
• Wood filler
• A paintbrush (2-inch angled sash brush is ideal)
• Painter’s cup
• Tack Cloth
• Rags
• Primer
• Paint: choose a high-quality trim paint in the finish of your choice. More about paint finishes here.

2. Prep Your Space

• Clear the room: Remove furniture and cover the floor with drop cloths to protect it from paint splatter.
• Clean the trim: Dust and wipe down the trim to ensure a smooth surface for painting.
• Fill any gaps or imperfections with wood filler. Once it dries, sand the patched areas until they’re smooth.
• Sand down all trim with 220 grit sandpaper. This is an important step that many overlook but is not to be skipped. By doing this, you’re giving the new paint something to grip on to and it will help promote it’s durability.
  • If you skip this step, prepare for your new trim to chip easily and even peel off in some instances.
• Wipe up dust with a cloth and vacuum remaining dust on floor area
• Go over all surfaces one last time with a tack cloth

3. Tape and Protect

Carefully apply painter’s tape along the edges of the trim to protect your walls from paint splatter. Make sure it’s securely adhered to avoid any bleed-through. I usually like to run my putty knife over it just to make sure.

4. Prime Time

Apply a coat of primer to the trim. Primer helps the paint adhere better and ensures a smooth, even finish. Let it dry completely before moving on to the next step (usually 2-3 hours is sufficient but always check your paint can label for drying time).

5. Paint Away

Now comes the fun part! Dip your paintbrush into your chosen trim paint and carefully start applying it to the trim. Use smooth, even strokes, and always paint in the direction of the wood grain for the best results. Do not overload your paint brush. A thin coat will promote quick drying time and an even finish. If you try to lay it on too thick, you’ll have paint drips, bubbles and in some cases even tackiness. Less is more here.

6. Sanding + Second Coat

Once your first coat has fully dried (again always check the label for drying time) use a sheet of fine sandpaper and gently run this over the trim. Repeat the same steps as before, wiping with a rag, vacuuming and then going over once more with a tack cloth. Using the same technique as the first coat, apply a second coat to all trim.

7. Remove Tape and Enjoy

As soon as you finish that second coat (if needed) and the paint is still wet, gently remove the painter’s tape at a 45-degree angle for clean, crisp lines. Let the paint dry completely, and then stand back and admire your handiwork!

Pro Tips:

• Invest in quality paint and brushes: The right tools make a huge difference in achieving a professional finish.
• Take your time: Rushing through the job can lead to mistakes. Patient, steady strokes will give you the best results.
• Choose the right finish: Consider your room’s function when selecting a finish. Satin or semi-gloss works well for trim as they are durable and easy to clean.

And there you have it! Painting interior trim is a DIY project that can truly transform your space without breaking the bank. It’s a small effort that pays off big in terms of style and value, and can make your entire house feel completely new. So, go ahead and add this project to your weekend to-do list and watch your home come to life with renewed charm.

If you have any questions or want to share your trim painting success stories, drop me a comment below. Happy painting, and stay tuned for more fabulous DIY tips and tricks right here on the blog!

Just in time for the Thanksgiving holiday, the dining room is about to have the makeover she deserves. This room has been a slow progression, and honestly I wouldn’t have it any other way. While I’ve already finalized much of the design for this space, I want to bring you behind the scenes and share the final vision I have for the dining room makeover. It was not a straight and narrow path to get here, but I’m glad I exercised some patience during the design process and took my time with it. For some context, the dining room is the first room to the right when you enter through the front door. It’s an 11’x11’ room, and has two floor to ceiling windows looking out onto the front yard. It also has a swing door which opens up to the kitchen (I love this!) and is the only room in the house that has a chair rail (the moulding that’s towards the middle of the wall).

Where we started…

Since I had such a limited budget when I first bought the house, I focused on “resetting” the dining room and living with it for the first few years. This included scraping the popcorn ceilings, swapping out the light fixture with the one I had at my previous house and painting the walls a clean white. It wasn’t anything great, but I felt I had made it better than I had found it, and it was a band aide for the time being.

Above: Original Listing Photo | Below: Initial Band Aide

Where we’re going…

The chair rail in this space really had me fixated on installing wallpaper. I love the idea of breaking up a big pattern with some trim and this was the perfect formal space to really go for it. When I started mood boarding this space, I set out with the idea of keeping my existing chandelier and dining set. All of these things came with me from my previous house, and while I really wanted to make them work, it turns out it wasn’t meant to be. Why? Follow along for my string of mood boards…

Dining Room Moodboard – Option A (keep existing furniture)  

This was the first wallpaper that stopped me from scrolling that I thought could co-exist with my dining room set and chandelier. I felt the dark background would work perfectly with the existing furniture and light set up, while the magenta flowers would add a pop of bright color to break up the pattern. I envisioned painting the trim, ceiling and lower wall Sherwinn-Williams charcoal grey Peppercorn, knowing that the white oak flooring would help balance everything out.

I was so certain of this design that I almost just ordered the wallpaper outright. Thankfully, a voice of reason entered the scene (which was likely the order total in my shopping cart) and I decided to order a wallpaper sample first. Folks, if you’re thinking of installing wallpaper please order a sample. I will continue to repeat this message. The sample arrived and I tore it open like I was a kid at Christmas. Guess what? It felt flat and cartoon like. I couldn’t believe it, but we needed to move on…

Dining Room Moodboard – Option B (keep existing furniture)

Again, determined to keep my furniture and light fixture, I moved onto this wallpaper by Cole & Son. With the different tones of greens I can see both silver and gold being able to play nicely in the same space (hello chandelier, hello mirror) and the dark background would pair with the black table and chairs. I color matched Benjamin Moore’s Mediterranean Olive for the chair rail and molding and felt confident its warm undertones would work well with the floors.

Feeling good right? Cue the wallpaper sample…and again, we strike out. This time, the sample showed up way more metallic than I was expecting. I was really thinking this would be heavily green, and it was anything but. While I still like this wallpaper, I know the dining room isn’t the right space for it in this particular house. Moving on again…

Dining Room Moodboard – Option C (new furniture / light)

The universe was trying to tell me something and I was finally ready to listen. It might be time to let go of the table, chairs and light. Mentally letting go, I set out to design a lighter space and started with Cole & Son’s Florencecourt wallpaper. I first saw it from the Renovation Husband’s dining room and have been obsessed with it ever since.  

The samples were ordered and we passed with flying colors! What I saw, is what I got. Feeling good about this, I continued to mood board the space and was on the hunt for a light fixture that’s a bit cloud like. My original choice was this tiered chandelier by Visual Comfort, but after inspecting it closer I don’t love the little crystals. Paint wise, with so much going on between the light fixture and wallpaper, I think keeping the wall and trim color a simple white and pairing an understated lighter table with the room is the way to go. This design gets a gold star and moves to the final round.

Dining Room Moodboard – Option D (new furniture / light)

Having previously struck out with wallpaper samples, I was already onto Mood Board #4 while I was waiting for the Florencecourt sample to arrive. Spotted from The Established Home, I had daydreams of installing this hand painted wallpaper by Kelly Ventura. It is so whimsical and stunning but not overpowering, which is such a delicate balance to strike. I found this light fixture by Visual Comfort that looks like it was made to pair with this exact wallpaper and I like the idea of trying an oval table in this space. I felt the wallpaper needed a darker contrast and I think Benjamin Moore’s Amherst Gray is the perfect match as it has some green undertones running through it.

While I loved this last design the most out of all four, it ended up being cost prohibitive due to the wallpaper in particular. With it being hand painted, it’s a labor intensive product and is priced accordingly. I still love this design and think it would stand the test of time, it’s just not right for me at this time in my life.

Our Winner: Florencecourt!

While there’s still a ton of work to do with sourcing the new furniture ahead of Thanksgiving, I’m so happy to share that the Florencecourt wallpaper was the winner of the wallpaper contest! It’s already been installed and has truly made the dining room makeover one for the books. Stay tuned for more updates soon, as I’ll be sharing details about the wallpaper install and the unexpected decision I ended up making (you won’t believe it!). We’ll have a full reveal of the final space just in time for Thanksgiving. And I’ll be extra thankful to cross another room transformation off the list!

This one’s for my DIY enthusiasts! Today, we’re diving into a topic that often gets overlooked in the world of home renovation and design: ceiling painting. Sure, we all love a beautifully painted wall, but what about the fifth wall—the ceiling? Trust me, it’s a game-changer when done right. So, grab your paintbrushes and let’s turn that overlooked surface into a canvas of possibilities!

Step 1: Gather Your Supplies

Before we begin, let’s make sure you have all the essentials in your DIY arsenal:

• Paint: Choose a high-quality paint that suits your space and style. Ceiling paint is typically flat or matte, but you can use other finishes for a unique look. Check out my tutorial on paint sheens if you want to explore other options, and the pro’s and con’s of each.
• Paint Roller: Opt for a roller with an extension pole to save your arms from fatigue. A skin with a 3/8” nap should be perfect.
• Drop Cloths: Protect your floors and furniture from paint splatters.
• Painter’s Tape: Use this to mask off edges and create clean lines.
• Ladder or Step Stool: Ensure you have safe access to the ceiling.
• Paint Tray and Liner: Makes dipping your roller easier.
• Paintbrush: For cutting in around the edges. I prefer a 2.5” but no matter what size you choose, make sure your brush is angled for this project.
• Paint Edger: Optional but handy for achieving crisp lines.

Step 2: Prepare the Room

Clear the room of furniture or cover it with drop cloths. Remove light fixtures or ceiling fans if possible, or cover them securely with plastic wrap. Take the time to patch any holes or imperfections in the ceiling, and sand them smooth once the filler is dry. Lastly make sure your ceiling has been wiped down. You can use a Swiffer duster for this.

Step 3: Prime, Prime, Prime!

Never underestimate the power of a good primer. It helps paint adhere better and ensures a consistent finish. Apply a layer of primer to the entire ceiling, and let it dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Trust me; this extra step is worth it in the long run.

Step 4: Start Painting

Load up your roller with paint from the tray. Painting a ceiling is much like painting a wall. Begin at one corner of the room and work your way across the ceiling in small sections. Avoid overloading your roller to prevent drips and streaks, and try to paint with a little overlap in each section (this means starting the new rolling an inch into where you just rolled). Do not continuously roll over the same area, as this will creat what’s called “flashing.” Remember, slow and steady wins the race!

Step 5: Cut in the Edges

Use a paintbrush or a paint edger to carefully cut in along the edges of the ceiling, where the roller can’t reach. This step ensures a clean and polished look.

Step 6: Second Coat (If Necessary)

Depending on your chosen color and coverage, you may need a second coat. Allow the first coat to dry completely before applying the second. Drying time will be on your paint can, but if you can wait until the next day I always prefer to do so.

Step 7: Final Touches

Once your ceiling is dry, remove any painter’s tape and look for areas that my need some touch-ups. This is usually along the edge where the ceiling meets the trim/wall, especially if you’re using contrasting colors. Reattach light fixtures or ceiling fans, and move your furniture back in.

Tips for Success

• Work in sections: Don’t rush through it; divide the ceiling into manageable sections for a more even finish.
• Proper lighting: Use adequate lighting to spot any missed spots or imperfections.
• Ventilation: Keep the room well-ventilated to help the paint dry faster and reduce fumes.

Remember, painting your ceiling is a fantastic way to add character and dimension to your space. It’s an often-overlooked element of interior design that can truly transform a room. So, don’t be afraid to get creative and experiment with colors! Happy painting!

As always, stay tuned for more home renovation and design inspiration right here on HouseOnTheHarpeth.com Happy DIYing!

Tom Petty once said the waiting is the hardest part. Well Tom, you were right. If you remember, I shared I’d be doing my hardwood flooring installation in phases. Due to the kitchen leak, we knocked out the downstairs first, then scheduled the upstairs second. With how I live in the house, I really use the downstairs floor the most. The primary is downstairs and the only room I use upstairs is my home office. Knowing this, I didn’t think it would be a big deal to space out the installations. Well…turns out I got a taste of something I liked and just couldn’t get it out of my head. I’d be padding across the new white oak hardwoods and then I’d look over and see this dark staircase. The balusters stuck out like sore thumbs and I kept looking back and forth at the contrast. I couldn’t wait.

The Upstairs

The upstairs flooring took no time at all. There are 3 bedrooms and each room is significantly smaller than the spaces downstairs. The contractor had everything ripped out and bundles of hardwoods placed at the end of day one. Coming home and seeing this I felt like a kid at Christmas! I even dared to think that maybe we’d be ahead of schedule and I could have a full weekend day to put my house back together, and (gasp!) live like a normal person once again.

The Staircase

The staircase though, the staircase had other plans. The big issue was adjusting the steps. The very top step was higher than all the other steps, so the entire staircase needed to be adjusted. They needed to raise each tread up to make each stair equidistant. I’m still scratching my head at how the staircase ended up this way in the first place, and I’m happy to know that as of now, it’s been done the right way.

Open Stringer

If you recall during the staircase design, I was originally planning to keep the stringer closed (see staircase anatomy and design plans here), but at the last minute decided to open it. During the install week, I would peer around the plastic sheeting each night at the progress and hope I had made the right decision. There was no going back. My fear was the open stringer would feel too modern for the style of the house, and the new number of balusters would feel too busy. Remember, the previous balusters weren’t up to code and were spaced unevenly. So although I opted for a more streamlined baluster, there would be double the amount. The balusters were installed on the second to last day, so it was a long week of waiting for this girl.

Newel Posts

When I saw the newel posts installed for the first time, I knew I had made the right decision. They are chunky and stately and blend perfectly with the traditional style of the house. As soon as I saw them placed I felt like I had at least made one decision right. On the previous staircase, the newel post at the base of the staircase was on the floor, however since these newel posts are so much thicker we had to place this one on the first stair tread in order to allow the front door to clear. It was a design decision that was made for me, but one that I’m happy with and actually prefer to the previous version.

Final Results

The installers worked up until the end of the very last day, but they managed to finish on time and on budget. Similar to seeing the new downstairs flooring for the first time, I am blown away at the transformation this renovation has made to the entire feel of my home. It is lighter, brighter and more open. It’s updated but not in a forced way. It just feels cleaned up.

after / before

When I walk up and down the stairs now, they no longer creak. The first step from the top doesn’t feel like you’re falling off a cliff. And the railing doesn’t shake when you grab onto it. These are all things I lived with because in the grand scheme of things it wasn’t a big deal – there are bigger problems in the world. But there is something to be said for when a design comes together and you know it’s right. It’s this feeling. It’s a shift from a cringe to a smile.

This is just the beginning for this front entry way. Further on down the road I plan to update the front door to a black one, which I know is going to tie in beautifully with these new black balusters. In the short term, I’m already browsing and pinning new ideas for garland and can’t wait to see what it will look like all decorated for the holidays! I’ll also be hosting Thanksgiving this year, and will be so proud to open the front door and invite family into my home (and not worry about them falling off that top step). 

In the coming weeks I’ll share a breakdown of the budget for each phase of this renovation, and will also aggregate all of the design decisions into that post for safe keeping. In the event you find yourself designing a staircase and/or a hardwood flooring renovation, I hope my experience and many learnings will be useful to you!

As the temperatures in Nashville begin to cool down, and the days become shorter, I’ve gradually started adding fall décor touches from the inside out. It is truly my favorite season of the year – the color palette, the smells, the crisp air, the food, sweater weather and all around general coziness. And something I’ve grown to love is styling pumpkins on my front door steps.

This will be my fifth fall season in this house and I feel like I can finally say I’ve gotten the hang of how to style pumpkins on the front door steps. However, it was a journey to get here. Coming from my previous house, which had only one step, I was a little overwhelmed the first year and honestly I didn’t know what I was doing. My current house has five circular steps leading up to the door, with the hand rails angling out from the top. This angle creates some extra ground to cover when decorating and filling in “the stoop.”

Pumpkin Display At My Previous Home (simpler times!)

Pumpkin Paralysis

The first few years, I remember looking at so many inspirational photos of beautifully styled steps on pintrest, only to arrive at the pumpkin stand and immediately feel completely overwhelmed upon seeing all of the shapes, sizes and endless choices. I don’t have photos of the first couple years, but I can say they were rough.

After some trial and error over the past couple years, I’ve found implementing styling techniques that I use in every day design has helped me tackle how to style pumpkins on the front door steps. If you face the same overwhelm that I once did, I hope that this post will serve as a thought starter for you, or at the very least will help making styling pumpkins on your front door steps a fun experience and not an anxiety ridden one!

Helpful design tips for styling pumpkins on steps

• Start Big – place your largest item(s) first and work backwards from there. Every year I get at least one monster pumpkin and place it on a lower step. I also love to buy mums each season and enjoy placing those in large pots flanking either side of the front door. These are examples of larger items to start with.

• Be Odd: place things in groups of three’s or five’s or even seven’s. This design rule in general is usually more aesthetically pleasing.

• Vary the size, shape and height: Too many big items look too uniform and too many small items can look cluttered. Work to pair gords with traditional pumpkins. Place little pumpkins with medium and large pumpkins. Create a pumpkin tower of three different pumpkins of different colors. Mix it up!

• Mix textures and colors: too much of the same looks unnatural, while mixed pairings create more visual interest for the eye. I love different colored pumpkins! Mix white, green and orange pumpkins together. Pair a smooth pumpkin with one that has nubs all over it.

New for this year

Each year I’ve lived here I’ve visited a local farmer’s stand nearby and have picked up a trunk full of pumpkins for my front steps. And I mean a TRUNK FULL! What’s even crazier is that I wish I could buy even more and really make these pumpkins spill all over the front steps!

Last year, as I handed over my credit card and quietly gulped at the total, I told myself that I’d look into adding some faux pumpkins into the mix. I spent a few months hunting for the right ones, but I will say the ones that I found were worth the hunt! Can you tell which ones are faux? (hint: two of the three are in this photo below)

If the faux pumpkins end up working out, I’ll buy a couple each year and slowly build up a little collection. So while my trunk this year was still quite full, the load was lightened a little bit. I’ll do a full review at the end of the season and share how they’ve held up. One thing’s for certain: they’re squirrel proof!

To close out the front step styling, I added a simple burgundy wreath for the front door. Earlier this spring I bought the same wreath but in a pretty green, and it held up outdoors in the elements. It actually still looks brand new!

Once I decorate for fall, it runs through Thanksgiving until I’m ready to put up Christmas decor. With that said, I tend to lean into a much more neutral decor style and focus more on the color palette of oranges, burgundies, browns and deep greens where I can versus the traditional black and orange Halloween decorations. But that’s the beautiful thing about design – it’s objective and there is no right or wrong. Whatever speaks to you is what you should follow. Right now, all of this is speaking to me and I’m snuggling up to it.

Reveal days are my favorite days! I’m so excited about how the powder room redesign turned out and I’m even more excited to share the full room reveal with you today.

How we got here

If you remember, I realized the pedestal sink wasn’t properly secured to the powder room wall, and after calling my plumber, we unfortunately had to remove a patch of drywall, install wood shims and re-plumb the lines. Since the existing wallpaper was out of stock, I was left with no choice but to redesign the entire powder room.

After putting together a handful of moodboards, I ultimately decided on this gorgeous wallpaper by Woodchip & Magnolia. While I loved all three wallpapers, after seeing the samples in real life the decision pretty much made itself. I also feel that based on where the room is located in the house (basically the center of the main floor), this wallpaper will lend itself to easily transition between the surrounding rooms and colorways I have planned for some upcoming renovations. (hello dining room, hello kitchen!)

Trim Decisions: Going Bolder

While the install wasn’t the easiest job, I knew instantly after hanging the first panel that I made the right decision for the powder room redesign. It’s so dreamy and soft, yet still packs a punch for this small space! Another thing that really excited me about this particular wallpaper was the limitless possibilities for the trim, door and ceiling colors. Since painting the trim in the tv room, I’m a bit obsessed with the idea of non-traditional white trim and definitely wanted to try a color out in this space.

Testing 1-2-3

Laying out paint swatches on top of the wallpaper didn’t prove to be as helpful as I had hoped, as I have natural light in every room except the powder room. Because of this, how the paint will look in the actual powder room will be much different than anywhere else in the house I was reviewing swatches. Rather than paint before wallpaper, I opted to install the wallpaper first so I could get a true picture of how the colors would go together. In hindsight, I’m SO glad I did this.

The two colors I narrowed down from paint swatches, were a pretty green (Sage Mountain) and a brown grey (Squirrel Tail). After painting samples on the baseboards and waiting for them to dry, I knew quite quickly that neither color felt like “the one.” I had to sit with this for a while and ask myself why neither of these worked, and after a while, I realized the answer was they both stood out too much. And then the answer hit me: The wallpaper is the leading lady of this room, and I needed a paint color that would play the best supporting actress role.

Pondering what to do, I put on one of my favorite design shows: The Established Home and landed on an episode where Jean paints a butler’s pantry this gorgeous chocolate brown in high gloss. I paused the show, went into the powder room and looked at the wallpaper and knew that was it. After going down a rabbit hole on google, I was able to color match the color to Farrow & Ball’s London Clay. We have one place in Nashville that carries this paint and the next day I was off to the races to buy a high gloss can for the trim and a dead flat for the ceiling. After applying the first coat, I knew: this was the one. It’s just a feeling!

This was my first time using a full gloss paint sheen and I have to say, I’m absolutely hooked! Everything looks like jewelry – it’s so luscious and rich looking. It is such a showstopper, and when I close the bathroom door I love seeing the shiny brown looking back at me.

Supporting Cast: The Light Fixture

Another little speed bump I hit during this design was the light fixture. In the original moodboard I had selected this cute bumble bee sconce, which I thought was a fun play on the floral wallpaper. Unfortunately, when I went to order it I realized this light fixture was out of stock for the next two months. We’ll just say I didn’t love it enough to wait that long for it.

Back to the drawing board

On the hunt again, I was out to find a new sconce and was having a hard time. I decided to try out a large scale sconce from Visual Comfort and was so excited for it to arrive to the house. However upon unboxing it, it was not what I was expecting in the least. I had hoped the “glass” cover was actually glass however it was plastic, which really made everything feel quite dated. We’re trying to get out of the 90’s over here not go back to them! Reluctantly, I returned it and was back on the hunt.

After looking at countless light fixtures, I decided simple would be better for this space and changed up the search to look for something clear. Ultimately I landed on this beautiful double sconce from Rejuvenation and after installing it, I couldn’t be happier. It’s the perfect shade of brass, has two lights (which is sufficient for the small space), and I love how the clear globes allow the wallpaper to shine through.

Final Touches

Moving to the mirror, I was actually able to shop my own house for this! Going back to the moodboard, I wanted a wooden mirror to help break up all the brass. If you don’t order all the fixtures from the same place, it’s usually quite impossible to get an exact match on brass. I had found this cute little mirror at a vintage shop in Nashville a while back and I love how it incorporates both wood and has some gold added in. It’s the perfect size for the space on the wall and I couldn’t be happier with how everything works together.

Lastly, I wanted to swap out the old white switch plates for some brass ones. I’m so happy with this brushed brass outlet plate and double switch plate from Amazon. I had browsed so many different options with a wide range of price points and these compete with the best of them. They look high end and were incredibly affordable. Finally, to round it all out, I found a unique toilet paper holder that adds a fun touch to the space!

Looking Back To Look Ahead…

Looking back, I remember how irritated I was to spend time and money renovating a room that in my mind was “done.” But upon completing the powder room redesign (for the 2^nd time) I have to say my perspective has changed. Even though I loved the previous version of the powder room, and it holds a special place in my heart, I couldn’t be more in love with this updated version. My design style has drastically evolved over the past five years and I feel this space is a better representation of my design aesthetic today. As I pass by this space multiple times daily, I love that it will not only be a beautiful space to glance over at but will also serve as a reminder that change isn’t always a bad thing.

Sources: Wallpaper | Toilet Paper Holder (similar) | Brushed Brass Outlet Plate | Brushed Brass Double Light Switch Plate | Faucet (out of stock – similar) | Pedestal Sink | Light Fixture | Mirror is Vintage (oval wooden mirror option)

If you’ve been following along, you’ll recall that I opted to complete my new hardwood flooring installation in phases. In phase one I knocked out the downstairs flooring first, which is where the water leak happened (it was kinda urgent). Now that we have that out of the way, we can focus on the staircase and upstairs bedrooms. While I’d already made the core decisions when it came to the flooring (wood type, plank width, stain) I still had a lot to nail down when it came to the staircase design. Honestly, it was more than I ever would have expected – I already had a staircase so what was there to decide? Wait for it.

Staircase Terminology 101

Most of the staircase terminology was new to me, so to help you follow along I’m going to break down some key terms along with a diagram.

1. Riser:  this is the back of the stair, and what you might stub your toe on when going up the steps. Technically: the riser is the vertical component of the stair that provides support to the tread.
2. Tread: the tread is what we step on (i.e. what we tread on). Technically: the tread is an upper flat surface or a horizontal portion of a step  A tread + a riser = a step
3. Newel Post: these are the posts at the top and bottom of most staircases. They support and connect the handrail.
4. Hand Rail: Sometimes also referred to as a banister, this is what we try to slide down when we’re kids. Technically: the piece of metal or wood that you hold on to when going up and down the stairs, which provides both support and safety.
5. Baluster:  these are the wood or metal vertical pieces that connect the handrail to the bottom of the staircase (which is called a stringer – see next).
6. Stringer: These are angled pieces of wood that support the steps in a staircase. There is always a wall stringer, which is next to the wall and then an open or closed stringer for the other side of the staircase.

Staircase Design Decisions….

The biggest decisions I needed to make for the staircase design came down to a handful of components but ones I didn’t take lightly. They were: newel post design, riser type, baluster type, and open vs closed stringer. Follow along as I break it down from easiest to hardest, along with my design process.

Design Decision #1: Riser type

When it came to the risers, I needed to decide if I wanted to continue the white oak the entire flight of stairs, or if I wanted to break it up with painted white risers. This was a pretty simple decision for me because I felt having continuous white oak would be too much wood, and a white riser would help break things up. Winner: white risers.

Design Decision #2: Newel Post

The house is a traditional style home and I felt bringing in a large newel post would work for both the design style of the house as well as the scale of the entryway which has 20 foot high ceilings. I have a small balcony at the top of the stairs, which would require two additional newel posts. I had the option to vary the sizes of these posts, but I decided to keep all the newel posts large and chunky to allow for design consistency. Winner: chunky newel posts.

Design Decision #3: Balusters

I knew I wanted black balusters. I love the contrast they bring to the table with the white oak floors. The unknown part that I struggled with was what size – there were thick balusters and thin balusters. Due to code, I needed to have three balusters per step (so children can’t put their heads through the balusters). My previous staircase was not done to code, so I had a hard time visualizing if the wider balusters I wanted were going to look too busy due to needing so many per step. The other option was to go with a thinner baluster, however I was worried that would create a modern feel which is what I didn’t want. Winner: thick black metal balusters.

Design Decision #4: Stringer – Open vs Closed

This was the hardest decision for me and I went back and forth multiple times. My previous staircase had a closed stringer. That meant the balusters were drilled into the angled piece of wood that was placed on top of the tread.

I had planned on keeping the stringer closed, however after learning I’d need to keep the existing stringer in order to do so, I opted to open it up. With so many DIY issues from the previous owners, I wanted to ensure I was getting a fresh start all the way around. Winner: Open Stringer

Conclusion

This project gave me a run for my money! The staircase is the first thing you see upon entering the front door and first impressions are everything. While I’m sure it sounds silly to most, I wrestled with the staircase design decisions for weeks, mostly because I wanted to ensure I was staying true to the style of the home. Ultimately I want this first impression to be a memorable one, and a proper introduction of what’s to come upon visiting my home.

Paint is one of the most instantaneous and easiest ways to transform a space, but sometimes all the choices can be a bit overwhelming. Today, I’m going to break it all down for you and arm you with everything you need before heading into the paint store. We’ll go over the basics which include an overview on paint sheen, paint type and tips on how to choose a paint color in the article below. Lets get to it!

Which Paint Sheen Is Right For Your Project?

Picking the right paint sheen (also referred to as paint finish) is going to depend on what you’re painting. Here are some pro’s and con’s to start thinking about for each type of paint sheen.

• Flat / Matte:  
  • Pro’s: hides imperfections and provides a non reflective finish.
  • Con’s: It’s not durable and is difficult to clean (i.e. you’ll easily see areas you tried to clean).
  • Pro Tip: Flat paint is generally a builder grade choice because it’s the cheapest. I would suggest leaving this for the ceilings and going up one sheen for any walls.
• Eggshell:
  • Pro’s: Eggshell finishes meet in the middle balancing both matte and shine. Versatile for various surfaces, durable and easy to clean minor stains with gentle scrubbing without losing the finish.
  • Con’s: As we increase the sheen, imperfections become more visible. If your walls have uneven surfaces, expect eggshell to showcase these more than a matte would.
  • Pro Tip: If your room gets moderate to low light, this is a great option. Eggshell is what I’ve used on almost all of my interior walls.
• Satin:
  • Pro’s: Is more durable than an eggshell or matte paint. It has a subtle hint of sheen.
  • Con’s: We are going in order of shine, so this is a more reflective sheen. If you have a room that gets a lot of light, you may want to bump down to eggshell.
  • Pro Tip: A satin finish is a great choice for trim in a room that gets a lot of light, as it’s durable but won’t be super reflective.
• Semi-gloss:
  • Pro’s: highly durable and works well in high-traffic areas like kitchens and bathrooms. It resists moisture and stains, and provides a smooth surface. Offers a noticeable shine.
  • Con’s: Semi-gloss can highlight surface imperfection, so make sure your surface is properly  prepped (sanded, wood filled, cleaned)
  • Pro Tip: Semi-gloss is the go to choice for trim in most rooms, as well as other high traffic surfaces. Just ensure your surface is properly prepped to eliminate imperfections showing through.
• Gloss / High Gloss:
  • Pro’s: beautiful glossy surface and highly durable. This finish provides an elegant and modern look.
  • Con’s: again the higher the gloss the more likely imperfections will be noticeable. Additionally, application can be tricky on large surfaces, as it needs a perfectly smooth surface and balanced humidity for optimal and even drying.
  • Pro Tip: this finish is best for trim work, molding and wood. If you’re considering a larger surface you may want to practice first, as it can be a tricky one to get right!

How To Choose A Paint Color

While this is the most exciting step, and many of us are quick to get right to it, I encourage you not to rush through this. A lesson learned the hard way I will share with you: in my early days of interior painting, I chose a grey paint off the color wheel that I thought looked great. I went through all the trouble of applying it to my dining room, only to find out that because of how the light came through my windows, it ended up looking purple, which is my least favorite color (actually I can’t stand it). To make matters more embarrassing, I chose another grey off the color wheel and painted it the next day. When I turned on my chandelier, the light cast through my black shade, made this new grey paint appear an even darker purple!! I wasted about $200 and a weekend’s worth of time because I didn’t plan. So learn from my mistakes and take the extra time to buy some samples and paint some swatches to check out as your lighting changes throughout the day.

 Some other thoughts on choosing a color: I believe this is a very personal choice and can be thought about in a few different ways.

1. Love of a color: maybe you just love a color and want your walls to be that color. If that’s the case then go for it!
2. Practicality: I generally like to stick with neutral colors like white, grey and beige for larger spaces. This makes the room feel like a blank canvas to me and allows me to accessorize with artwork, furniture and other décor. Again, this is just a personal preference and there’s really no right or wrong.
3. Warm vs Cool: there are undertones in every shade of color on your paint color wheel. Take the time to think about what kind of undertones would work best in your house. Are your floors a warmer tone or a cooler tone? If you’re not sure, place your paint swatches on your floors and you’ll see if the hues compliment one another, or if they compete.
4. Light: what kind of natural light does your room get? If you’re painting a movie room, you probably don’t want it to be bright so stick with a dark color. If you’re painting a bedroom that has a million windows, maybe opt for something soft that isn’t necessarily white (it could feel like an asylum if it’s too bright).
5. Trending: every season there is a new trend of colors. If you know you want a refresh but aren’t married to a color yet, I would suggest starting a mood board and pinning some ideas of rooms you like from your favorite design magazines or Instagram accounts.
6. Focus pieces: another idea if you’re on the fence with a color is to consider some of your staple pieces that you know will be part of that room. For example if you have a piece of artwork that you definitely want to belong in this room, consider color matching one of the colors in the painting for your walls. It can be a subtle way to tie the room together.

Which paint type is right for your project?

Lastly, you’ll need to decide which type of paint is best for your project. Options include:

• Oil based – oil based paints are typically more durable and a bit cheaper than latex paints, however they take longer to dry and are very odorous. I personally don’t use oil based paints much, but they’re usually used for trim and molding, as well as high gloss sheens (see below).
• Water/Latex based – faster drying time, easier to clean, less odorous. Typically great choices for interior walls. These are my go to.
• Primer – think of this as a base coat which is meant to fill in pores and level the playing field before you apply your new paint. If you’re painting with an oil based paint, use oil based primer and vice versa. *Do not skip this step! Applying primer is cheaper and will save you extra top coats in the long run. Most importantly it will ensure your color comes out true. Just imagine painting a beautiful creamy white over a deep charcoal grey wall. The primer will reset the wall and absorb the top coat of creamy white so it comes out true to form when it dries.

Related

Paint Supplies + How to Prep The Space

How to Paint a Wall

How to Paint a Ceiling

Painting Crisp Paint Lines

The Benefits of Color Drenching

Shop My Go-To Paint Supplies

Tap to Shop!

There’s nothing quite like a gorgeous autumn flower arrangement. The colors are rich but not overpowering, and they blend into the background while still making a statement. If you’re like me, you’ve probably seen a stunning image of one of these autumn arrangements in a catalogue or on social media, and you’ve thought to yourself “that would be perfect for my house.” But then you realize that pretty little arrangement is going to set you back a few hundred bucks after you order the vase and the right number of stems to fill it. Speaking of which, how many stems do I even need?

This fall, I was determined to crack the code on how to style autumn flower arrangements without spending a small fortune, but while still achieving the designer look. After some trial and error, I can confidently say we nailed it. In this tutorial, I’ll walk you through the process of how I styled four different types of autumn flower arrangements. I’ll also go over how I determine the right stems for different types of vases, as well as tips for selecting flowers and vases.

Materials Needed:

Autumn Flowers (e.g., artificial flowers, branches, stems, leaves, or berries)

Vases (various sizes and styles)

Floral foam

Paper (for filling the vase)

Step 1: Your Vase + Selecting the Right Stems

Before you begin, consider the type of vase you’re working with and the overall look you want to achieve. Here are some tips for selecting the right faux fall stems:

1. Large Round Vase: Opt for stems with full foliage to create a dramatic and eye-catching centerpiece. Choose stems with long branches or flowers that spill over the sides for a lush and abundant look. You can choose to go monochromatic or incorporate a mix of textures, colors, and heights for added visual interest.

• Tall Vase: Look for long and slender stems that complement the height of the vase.

• Tall branches or grasses work well to fill the vertical space. Consider using a single type of stem for an elegant and streamlined appearance.

• Short Vase: Select shorter stems or cut longer stems to fit the height of the vase. Focus on small to medium-sized blooms or branches to ensure they don’t overwhelm the vase.

• Vase with a Small Opening: Choose stems with narrow profiles, such as thin branches or slender flowers. Trim stems to the appropriate length to fit through the opening without crowding.

Step 2: Determining the Quantity of Stems needed

Here are a few questions and considerations to help you determine how many stems you’ll need for your arrangement.

• Vase & Desired Shape: Which vase you’re using and what shape you’re desiring will help drive how many stems you’ll need.  Do you want a full, rounded look or a more sparse and airy appearance?

• Foliage Density: Examine the foliage or blooms on your faux stems. Some stems have more leaves or flowers than others. Keep in mind that if your stems are particularly dense, you may need fewer of them to fill the vase adequately.

• Vase Opening: If your vase has a smaller opening, you’ll likely need fewer stems. On the contrary, if the vase has a larger opening, you’ll need more stems (or stems that are fuller) to properly fill the space.
• The Rule of Thirds: when in doubt, use the rule of thirds for a balanced look. Divide the height of your vase into thirds and aim to have your stems occupy the top third. This allows for a visually pleasing arrangement without overstuffing the vase.

Step 3: Preparing the Vase

Before arranging your faux fall stems, make sure your vase is clean and ready for use. If you have a large vase with a wide opening, you may want to add some packing paper to the bottom to help fill the space and additionally place floral foam on top of the paper in order to secure the stems in place.

Step 4: Assembling

Now, it’s time to arrange your faux fall stems in the vase. Here’s how I styled my four different arrangements.

How I Styled 4 Different Arrangements

a. Large Round Vase – total cost $65

Since this vase is so large, I opted to stuff crumpled packing paper in the bottom to help fill the space. I cut floral foam to fit through the opening, making sure at least two of these pieces were the length of the vase. This arrangement will sit in the center of my kitchen table, so I wanted a full look all the way around.

I chose these large red maple leaf stems which I thought would pair nice with both the vase itself, as well as the setting I was planning on placing it in. Since the foliage is quite full after being properly fluffed, I only needed three stems for this arrangement. I kept one stem more upright and placed it in the center first, then placed the two remaining stems on the sides, bending them a bit to create a fuller and draping effect.

Sources: Crate & Barrel Jimena Round Vase (currently out of stock – similar vase here) | Brown & Burgundy Maple Leafe Bush ( 3 total)

b. Short Vase and Vase with a Small Opening – total cost $40

This arrangement is for my bedroom and I knew would be placed on a light blue dresser. I liked the idea of choosing these stems, as I felt the tones in the orange weren’t too aggressive and would compliment the color of the dresser as well as that of the vase. Additionally, the foliage was not too large for the scale of this vase. I chose two short stems and after properly fluffing them they were more than adequate for the size of this vase. I placed a couple pieces of flower foam in the bottom to help them stay secure. Couldn’t have been simpler!

Sources: Leann Ford Full Moon Clay Vase | Orange & Red Beech Faux Stems (2 total)

c. Medium Height Vase with Narrow Mouth – total cost $55

I found this vase at Target and felt the colors were so perfect for the fall season. I wanted to create a dramatic effect for this, and I felt this golden berry bundle would be perfect. The stems were easy to bend and really tend to drape in a natural looking fashion. Since this was going to go up against a wall, and not act as a centerpiece, I only used 3 stems as I wanted the backside to be a little closer to the wall. I’d suggest using 4 total if this were going to be in the center of a room.

Sources: Studio McGee Vase | Yellow Berry Bundle Stems (3 total)

d. Tall Vase with Narrow Mouth – total cost $90

The last arrangement was the simplest. I had this tall narrow vase and decided I wanted to go large scale and create something dramatic to be placed in a corner. I chose three of these pretty burgundy eucalyptus stems in the longer length. I bent the bottom of each stem, and then placed one stem in the center of the vase and the other two on each side, making sure to lean them against the lip of the vase. It’s the most simple arrangement but also the most dramatic. A little more expensive, as longer stems tend to be double the price of the short ones.

Sources: Crate & Barrel Geo Vase | Tall Burgundy Eucalyptus Stem (3 total)

In Conclusion

Styling faux fall stems is a creative, enjoyable and simple way to bring the beauty of autumn into your home. Remember to select stems that match the vase’s size and shape, and don’t be afraid to mix and match different elements to achieve your desired look. For these examples I chose to go monochromatic but it’s also fun to mix and match for scale, color and texture. If you’d like a more visual step by step guide, feel free to check out my YouTube video below. I’ve also included some of the best faux fall stems I’ve found this season below to help get you started. Happy decorating!

sources

1. Brown & Burgundy Maple Leaf Bush *used in my demo
2. Yellow Berry Bundle *used in my demo
3. Orange & Red Beech Faux Stems *used in my demo
4. Plum Cimicifuga Ramosa Leaves
5. Fall Eucalyptus Leaves
6. Baby’s Breath Silk Burgundy Flowers
7. Willow Eucalyptus Stem
8. Oak Leaf Stem
9. Brown Hydrangea Stem

I’ve been daydreaming about a moody dramatic tv room, and it’s official – I think this iteration of the TV Room is “the one”! There are still a few tiny details I need to finish such as putting a medallion above the gold leaf chandelier, changing out the electrical sockets to be black and eventually deciding on some window treatments, but for now, I’m checking this room off as complete.

Phase 1

If you’ve been following along, you’ll remember I did a budget friendly refresh shortly after moving into this house. I painted the built-in bookshelves a dark blue-grey (Benjamin Moore’s Lead Grey) in a Satin Enamel finish, swapped out the light fixture and added a sectional to the space. Many of the other pieces of decor came with me from my previous house. It was a fantastic update for the limited budget I was working with and it worked.

When I found out I’d be unexpectedly updating my hardwood floors, I realized now was the time to make a big change to this room and that started with the decision to remove the existing shag carpet. I was incredibly lucky to find beautiful white oak hardwood flooring underneath the carpet and it was in fantastic condition. It just needed sanded down and then stained to match the finish of the new flooring in the rest of the house. I am still counting my blessings about this!

TV Room 2.0

With how much this room had already evolved up until this point, I felt like it was time to take a design risk and try my hand at color drenching. I was a little bit nervous about the new paint (ceiling, trim and walls) matching the existing built-ins, as paint does fade over time, but it turned out seamlessly and I am absolutely in love with the final result!

I had so much fun adding in brass accents to really pop against the dark paint. My Primrose mirror that I had in the dining room for years has found its forever home above the mantel and I love seeing the reflection of the gold leaf chandelier. I swapped out the previous desk lamp for a cute little brass task lamp with a curvy arm and was so excited to add my first art lamp above some of my music memorabilia on the back wall. I tend to move my artwork around a lot, so going with a battery powered option felt like a safe choice and I couldn’t be happier with the decision. I’m already thinking about where I can install more of these – (of course I am). 

Same corner. Same room.

Finishing Touches

Adding in a dark area rug helped anchor the room and balance the brightness of the new hardwood floors. I decided to choose a traditional style patterned rug and the colors in this one were perfect as they pulled in the burnt orange pillows, the Lead Grey paint color and the beiges from the coffee table and sectional. I think the floral / botanical pattern helps balance the plaid pillows, as well as the overall masculine tone of the room.

Some finishing touches like restyling the bookshelves and changing things up on the coffee table has made this room feel like a completely new addition to the house, when in reality the true transformation came from taking a design risk with paint. This project has given me the confidence to continue to push my design boundaries and I’m so proud of how it turned out.

Sources:

Rug (size 10’x13′) | 3 Piece Sectional (in Taft Cement) | Coffee Table (no longer sold) | Desk Chair (antique) | Gold Leaf Chandelier | Tripod Floor Lamp | Double Arm Floor Lamp | Art Lamp | Orange Pillows | Plaid Pillows (similar) | Record Player | Gleaming Primrose Mirror | Brass Task Lamp | Glass Trinket Boxes | Small White Planter | Paint Color: Lead Grey by Benjamin Moore | Faux Fur Blanket in Silver | CB2 Trinket Box | Candles

Recently, I noticed that the pedestal sink in the powder room was wobbly, and after further investigation I realized it wasn’t connected to the wall! After calling the plumber we came to the unfortunate truth that the sink wasn’t connected to any studs in the wall, but was simply drilled into drywall. The plumber had to cut a hole in the wall, install wooden shims and replumb everything. In order to do so, he had to remove a section of the wallpaper. Since this wallpaper is five years old, it isn’t produced anymore and I don’t have any leftover, so….surprise! We’re making over the powder room.

This is a little bittersweet, simply because this is the first room I flipped after buying this house and my mom and I did it together. Actually it was the day after I signed the house – I just couldn’t wait. I found this gorgeous wallpaper by Graham & Brown that had a little bit of sparkle in it. I love the concept of making a small powder room dark and moody, and this wallpaper was just the ticket!

Above: original powder room | Below: my 1st renovation after closing on this house. I was so proud of it!

Since the pedestal sink is propped up in a corner of my dining room, and I have a giant hole in the wall, I’m highly motivated to get moving on a new design concept. The plumbers can’t come back until I’ve patched the hole and have uninstalled the old wallpaper and re-installed the new wallpaper, so it’s time to get moving!

Moodboards

I’ve put together a handful of moodboards to start visualizing the next phase of this room, and it’s definitely starting to excite and energize me about the impending change. I’ve had a couple wallpapers bookmarked for a while now, so I’m hoping this might be the right spot for them. I’m a firm believer in ordering wallpaper samples and creating moodboards to get the design out of your head and onto paper. Here are my top 3 contenders.

Moodboard #1:

I’ve been eyeing Sandberg’s Kvitten wallpaper in midnight blue for a while now, and have been trying to find the perfect place in my home to integrate it. I love the muted green color in the leaves and think Benjamin Moore’s Oil Cloth would be the perfect accent color for the trim, door and ceiling. I’d add a double light sconce with round milk glass globes to play off the circular shape of the lemons. Adding a wooden framed mirror will help break up the brass between the faucet and light fixture.

Sources: Sandberg Kvitten Wallpaper (Midnight Blue) | Oslo Mirror | Reagan Milk Double Globe Sconce | Paint: Oil Cloth by Benjamin Moore

Moodboard #2:

In such a small space I love the idea of a larger print, as it won’t be an overpowering experience when the door is shut. This beautiful wallpaper by Woodchip & Magnolia checks all the boxes and I’m excited about all of the color way options I could pull out for trim. I have a pint of this pretty smoky pink (Shiny Kettle by Behr) that I never used, and I think I can pull out the right tone of pink from this print to match. The bumblebee vanity sconce from Anthropologie would make so much sense given the flowers in the wallpaper and I think it’s such a fun light fixture in general. I’d again break up the brass light fixture and faucet with a walnut mirror in between.

Sources: Ava Marika Wallpaper | Ophelia & Co Mirror | Bumblebee Vanity Sconce | Shiny Kettle by Behr

Moodboard #3:

This is such a beautiful pallet of muted greens and I love the concept of a mural in this small space. I’ve been trying to work green into my house and this would be such a wonderful solution. Since I plan to install the wallpaper myself for this project, I love the idea of using panels that already line up, which would avoid measuring for the pattern repeat and eliminate some user error. I would anchor the room by pulling out a darker green from the pattern, and I think Farrow & Ball’s Green Smoke would be the perfect pairing. Adding a double sconce with a black shade will bring some elegance into the space and will allow for a black oval mirror as a neutral element.

Sources: House of Hackney Plantasia Wallpaper in Sage | Berkshire Double Sconce | Rapido Black Matte Wall Mirror |Green Smoke by Farrow & Ball

Out of this group of three, I think I have “the one”…but maybe with a couple tweaks. While I wasn’t initially thrilled about the unexpected renovation, I’ve decided to embrace it and am excited to see the evolution of this tiny space. Drop a comment below and let me know which option is your favorite, and stay tuned for the progress report + full reveal.

In the five years I’ve lived in this house, I can confidently say that the new hardwood floors are the biggest transformation to date. I’m so excited to share the final reveal with you today!

The first morning I padded across the new floors in my bare feet, I giggled because it was the first time ever that the floors didn’t squeak or shift. Everything was so still and serene.

The floors are truly the star of the show on their own, but I love how they also compliment the holistic design of the house. Every room feels so much brighter and cleaner, and it almost feels like an entirely new house. I’m absolutely in love with the warm undertones and the varying yet subtle difference in tone across each board.

In this blog post I shared how I naturally (wink wink) came to the decision to keep the stain a more natural finish after I saw the wood in its organic state and I’m so glad I trusted my gut and acted on my initial reaction. My contractor used the Pallmann Pall-X 96 Satin in a water base. He did two coats. I decided to go with a Satin finish, as I didn’t want super shiny floors (gloss / semi-gloss) but also didn’t want them to appear dull. Based on the fact that all of my windows face north and south in the house, I felt this would be a safe bet without too much shine. I’m super happy with the decision!

While we were at it, we decided to install all new baseboards and raise the height. The new five inch baseboards scale so much better with the large rooms and high ceilings vs the previous three inch baseboards (which also had so much wear and tear on them). To save both time and money, I opted to paint the baseboards myself while the contractors were installing the hardwoods. For two weeks, I would wake up at 5am, go down to my garage and put the first coat of paint on as many baseboards and pieces of quarter round as I could. I’d place them on plastic dixie cups to dry while I went to work, then would apply the second coat after I got home from work.

After a couple days of this new routine, I came to look forward to painting while I listened to 90’s on 9 on SiriusXM. Don’t get me wrong, I’m glad this is over and I’ll never have to do it again! By doing this work myself, I was able to save on professional painters, and also avoid potentially getting paint on the new hardwoods!

I couldn’t be happier with the final results, especially with the craftsmanship and professionalism of my contractor, Flavio with FGL Flooring. If you’re in the Nashville area and need new hardwood floors, I couldn’t recommend him enough. They finished both on time and on budget, which is something I’ve never been able to say before.

Still to come is the staircase (I’ve learned so much already about staircase terminology). I can’t wait to share it with you, as well as the final cost breakdown for the complete flooring renovation. 

The initial refresh I did in the TV Room (aka the Cozy Room) was exactly what it needed to make the space feel updated on a limited budget. However the more time I spent in it, the more it didn’t quite feel right. My main sentiment was that it still felt too bright for a movie room, but I was coming up empty on a design solution.

One day I was lying on the couch reading and happened to be facing the built in bookshelves. The angle allowed me to see only the oatmeal colored couch and burnt orange pillows against the all blue grey wall. And well, after that I couldn’t get it out of my head. I knew I had found my answer: this room was destined to be color drenched!

What Is Color Drenching?

Color Drenching is when you paint the entire room – walls, ceiling, trim, windows – all the same color. I bet you’ve seen it and didn’t even realize it. Lately I’ve noticed it popping into several TV series. If you’ve seen Emily In Paris, you’ll notice the French interiors in the show are color drenched in beautiful blues and lavenders. Showtime’s “Your Honor” has scenes from The Baxter Hotel which show a deep blue room that’s completely color drenched. The more I kept seeing it, the more I couldn’t stop thinking about it.

Phase 2

Knowing this room was about to go from day to night, I set out to start building a moodboard with a mix of old and new. The more I started to design, the more excited I became to add in accent pieces that will make the room feel more cohesive, while adding plenty of drama and a touch of masculinity. The centerpiece will be this beautiful gold chandelier, which will really pop against the new dark ceiling. I’ll anchor it by repurposing my Primrose Mirror above the fireplace, and will flank it with candlesticks.

There are obviously (and thankfully) a lot of elements that are staying the same. The sectional couch, the coffee table, the blankets, tripod lamp and the vintage desk chair will all fold into the new design seamlessly.

 Lastly, I’ll add a couple more lighting sources to the room that will compliment the ambience I’m trying to create, but will also provide a source of light when needed. I’m currently on the hunt for a brass task lamp to add to the built in desk for a pop of gold, as well as this double arm floor lamp for the back corner. I also have my sights set on adding a brass art lamp on the back wall of the room and am loving this battery powered one. I’ll be able to avoid needing to hard wire it, and if I change my mind about it’s location (as I tend to do) it won’t matter. I’m also planning to incorporate some plaid into the room and am currently browsing tons of options like these plaid pillows.

I think it’s going to be the perfect style for the space and I can’t wait to see this room really come to life for what I hope will be the final time! And then we can watch movies in it.

Yes, I bought a house with popcorn ceilings and yes I scraped every square inch of them off, all by myself. 3,222 square feet to be exact.

When I bought this house, there was no question that these ceilings were going to get fixed, but it was something I planned to hire out for. I was talking to my mom one day, complaining about how ugly the ceilings are and how dirty they looked (and I couldn’t clean them!) and she told me that one of my cousins removed her popcorn ceilings herself. The seed was planted. Why not try? If it was something I couldn’t do myself, then I could hire out as I originally planned.

Ignorance is truly bliss because this was a bear of a project, and I had no idea how hard and dirty this job was going to be. In the end, I’m so glad I did it myself, as it allowed me to save money that I could invest into other areas of the house. If you have popcorn ceilings and are considering removing them yourself, read on for my step-by-step how to guide.

How To Remove Popcorn Ceilings: A Step-by-Step Guide

Removing popcorn ceilings can be a messy and time-consuming task, but it’s possible to do it yourself with the right tools and precautions. Here’s my step-by-step guide as well as key learnings from along the way:

1. Test for asbestos: You can read all about asbestos as much as you want to, but regardless of the year your house was built I’d suggest testing just to be safe. You can buy self test kits that are easy and relatively cheap, or you can call a professional to test. This is the kit I used and I had my (negative!) results inside of a week. If asbestos is present, hire a licensed asbestos abatement contractor for safe removal.

2. Prepare the area: Remove everything possible from the room including light fixtures. Cover the floors with sheets or drop cloths, and then add an extra layer of plastic sheeting on top for easier clean up. You can also try to hang the plastic sheeting on the walls taping them up with frog tape (see supplies list next), however I chose to let them be and then just cleaned the walls at the very end.

3. Supplies: For protective gear make sure you’re wearing a mask, goggles/glasses and gloves at the minimum. Towards the end of this project I chose to invest in a hazmat suit. You’ll need: a ladder, a spray bottle or pump, fabric softener, a wide putty knife, plastic, painters tape, garbage bags, a shop vac, rags, sandpaper and determination.

4. Wet the ceiling: Before scraping, you need to moisten the popcorn texture to make it easier to remove. Fill your spray bottle with warm water and add a tablespoon of fabric softener. Lightly wet the ceiling being careful not to oversaturate it, as it can damage the underlying surface. Wait 10 minutes.

5. Scrape the texture: Once the ceiling is damp, use a wide putty knife to gently scrape away the texture. Hold the scraper at a shallow angle and apply even pressure to avoid damaging the ceiling. If your knife feels like it’s catching, you might be on a seam. Be gentle and go over this area multiple times rather than applying more pressure. If you feel like you need to, you can add a little bit more water to the area, wait and scrape again.

6. Repair any damage: During the scraping process, some areas may require additional attention. Patch any holes or gouges with drywall compound or joint compound. Sand the repaired areas once they are dry to create a smooth surface.

7. Clean up: This job is messy and there’s no way around it. To avoid cleaning multiple times, I like to work from the top down. Make sure you’ve sanded the ceiling where needed and wiped the tops of the walls where the ceiling and walls meet to loosen any popcorn that might have stuck. Wipe any cabinets / walls, then wipe off your ladder, allowing the residue to drop to the plastic. Slowly gather the plastic from the corners of the room, working inwards to keep the popcorn contained. Place in a trash bag. Remove drop cloths, tools, etc. Shop vac remaining debris.

8. Finishing touches: Depending on your desired result, you may need to apply a skim coat of joint compound to create a flat surface. Once the compound dries, sand it to achieve a smooth finish ready for painting.

After you’ve completed all of the above steps you’ll be ready to paint your new smooth ceiling!

Sometimes seeing someone just like you do the job you’re considering doing really goes a long ways. I’ve gone ahead and put together a video recapping the above instructions, which you can find here.

What Would A Professional Cost?

I know you’re probably wondering what the cost to pay for popcorn ceiling removal might be. Just like anything, it depends on where you live and how big your house is. There was one area of the house I couldn’t do myself which was the entry way. The space has 20 foot ceilings and I don’t own scaffolding, so I needed hire out. The cost to have a 100 square foot section removed was $1200 with another $400 on top for paint. That comes out to $16/square foot, which means my whole house would have cost over $51,000 for professional removal and finishing. I’ll leave you with that information, but I’ll also share that if I can do it, you can too.

When I first toured this house, I was so amazed that there were TWO living rooms! Not to mention they were both double the size of my previous and only living room. Before my offer was finalized, I was planning what existing furniture would go where and since “living room” meant two spaces in this house, I named this room The Cozy Room and/or The TV Room. My vision for the space was that it would be primarily for TV watching and would house my record collection and growing book collection. I was so excited!

The original cozy room had dark tan walls, a shag carpet, popcorn ceiling (same as all the rooms), and bookshelves in a dark woodwork. In the listing pictures the woodwork looked beautiful, but in person it was incredibly chipped and scratched. Either way, it was going to need refinished. Another fun feature of the built in’s  was a gigantic cavity for a large box tv. You know you’re in the 90’s if you have one of these in your house, am I right?!

Without knowing at the time, this room would be attacked in a few phases.

Short Term Goals:

• Remove popcorn ceiling
• Solve for TV cavity
• Refinish / update built-ins
• Paint walls
• Update light fixture
• Design the furniture configuration

Solve for TV Cavity

After sitting with the room for a couple weeks, I decided the best solution for the TV cavity would be to create shelving for my record collection. Since the space was originally built for a big TV, it was too deep as is for records. As a solution, we installed a false wall with a sheet of wood, and then created 3 rows of 2 boxes, for a total of 6 cubbies. It was more than enough space for my current collection to grow, and would allow for it to be a prominent feature in the room.

Refinish Built-In Bookshelves

My next decision was a big one, and that was the paint color. I had already moved past the idea of restoring the wood finish and there was no question in my mind: I was going to paint these built-ins. However, what I had in mind was met with a raised eyebrow from almost everyone I told. I was going to paint them a dark moody blue grey: Benjamin Moore’s Lead Grey. People thought I was crazy.

I decided to hire out for this big change, as the woodwork had a shiny lacquer to it, and at this point I had no experience re-finishing cabinetry. In hindsight, it was worth every penny, as the painters had to sand everything down, clean all the dust, apply primer, sand again, apply the first coat, sand again and then apply the top coat. Having the paint applied evenly and with the proper sanding would ensure the paint would hold up and also look seamless.

For the remaining three walls I decided to paint them Sherwin Williams Biscuit, which was a neutral beige color. I didn’t want to go with white, as I felt it would be too bright for the space and could also tend to make this room feel nautical which is something I didn’t want. Remember, we’re watching movies in here! Biscuit paired well with both the new woodwork paint color as well as the existing dark tan carpet.

To finish up this phase, I removed the popcorn ceiling and swapped out the ceiling fan for a beaded chandelier to bring a bit of drama to the room while still staying within the new color scheme.

Is this room completed? Nope! This was my initial scrub to make it feel like my own, while on a limited budget.

Cost Breakdown:

Record shelving: $428.89

Built In’s Professionally painted: $1680

Paint for Walls (painted by me): $97.96

Paint for ceiling (updated & painted by me): $26.98

Beaded Chandelier: $387.41

Grand Total: $2621.24

Stay tuned to see where this room is headed next. Spoiler alert: you’re not going to believe it!