We all have that thing that bugs us, right? For me, the original exterior trim color on my brick house was that thing, and I’ve been wanting to update it for years. When I was drafting my 2024 project list, I put an exterior makeover on that list. But if I’m being honest, it felt like more of a daydream than a reality. And then when I went through my 2024 progress list it really started to feel out of reach with the remaining (nice) months left in 2024. But as I was finishing the primary bedroom project and thinking about what would be next, I decided to decide. After finishing the garage door install earlier this year, I was itching to add some more curb appeal to the exterior. So the exterior makeover jumped to the top of the list and here we are, reveal day!

The Moody Exterior Design

If you read my post last month about the design plans for the exterior, you already know that I had a darker trim color in mind but was still undecided on exactly which one it would be. After some serious paint sampling, and literally watching paint dry for days, it came down to Black Fox by Sherwin-Williams.

Shop the Exterior Mood Board

Don’t let the name deceive you! Black Fox is more of a charcoal grey with brown undertones. The deciding factor for me was how nicely it played with my new wood colored garage door, as well as with the darker bricks in the exterior. It was the best of both worlds! I got busy designing a mood board for the project and was able to see my vision take shape.

A change of plans

While I was gathering quotes for this project (and more on that later – I plan to share a full budget breakdown post in the future), I had also reached out to a local gutter company just to see what new gutters would cost. I had already hired the painters and they began pressure washing and even painting, but when the gutter quote came in much lower than expected, I decided to jump on it and just get it out of the way.

I never knew I could be so excited about gutters! Love how these black gutters compliment the rest of the exterior.

So the design changed just a touch, as originally the old gutters were going to be painted Black Fox, just like the trim and windows. But with the new gutters I had the option of a fresh color, so I opted for Black! The gutter company asked me several times if I was sure haha. I was very sure, and after installation they commented how beautifully the black gutters pop against the new dark trim.

The Final Touches on the Moody Exterior Makeover

After the professionals were done, I only had a few minor touches left to do myself. I chose to repaint the back deck flooring with a fresh coat of Cabot Deck Correct in Mission Brown. The old flooring had been weathered and with all these pretty updates to the exterior the deck stuck out like a sore thumb. This fresh coat of paint not only brings it up to speed from an aesthetic standpoint but will also protect the decking from the winter elements we’ll be getting soon. I also opted to add brass kickplates to both entry doors to protect the paint from dirt and debris that gathers. And I’m officially on the hunt for a vintage lion head door knocker. I think that will be the chef’s kiss on the front entrance!

The back deck Before + After

An update that will be coming later this year will be lighting. I decided that the existing exterior lights are scaled way too small for the size of this house. A general rule of thumb is they should be ¼ to 1/3 the size of your door.  I had been thinking about ordering some fresh black lanterns like these, but after a little bit of online shopping I found some copper lanterns that I got instant heart eyes for. The bad news is they’re backordered until December 11^th, so I’ll have to practice some patience. I’ll be sure to update everyone as soon as they arrive and I unbox them!

What’s Next?

As I had previously mentioned, the exterior project is so massive that I need to break it into different phases. With the painting (and ladders!) out of the way, the next phase will be focusing on landscaping. I’m going to spend the winter months really diving into research and thinking about what some of my dream flowers / greenery include. As well as due diligence to ensure they will perform well for my climate zone.

I also plan to give the pool deck more attention next year! I’m envisioning some new pool loungers and umbrellas, removing some of the existing gravel by the deck and replacing it with bricks or pavers, and maybe even an outdoor kitchen! The best part of design is letting your imagination run wild with possibilities. So with a fresh new exterior to be proud of, I’m going to do just that.

Still can’t get over this before + after. Here’s the front view.

And a before + after of the backside

Stay tuned for more updates on the exterior in the coming months and be on the lookout for more news on the next interior project. I promise, you won’t want to miss it!

A special thank you to Lowe’s Home Improvement, who sponsored this project by providing the paint.

Recently I installed custom draperies in the dining room, and I have to say, the room feels all grown up now. I’ve always planned on removing the venetian blinds that came with the house, but with this room facing the road, having no privacy was not an option. I also just wasn’t in a rush. But if we’re being honest, I also didn’t realize how dramatic the impact would be! So all that to say, I want to show off the new drapes, but I also want to share my best practices for choosing and installing custom draperies.

Choosing the Right Style of Draperies

The style of your draperies should complement the overall aesthetic of your room. Using my dining room as an example, it’s a formal and traditional space, so I wanted a more tailored look. But lets review all of the options, as each space is different:

• Tailored: These classic draperies are characterized by clean lines, simple folds, and a polished appearance. They are perfect for traditional and contemporary spaces. Typically you’ll find your linen and cotton draperies are best suited for this look.
• Dramatic: If you’re looking to make a bold statement, dramatic draperies are the way to go. Think voluminous folds, luxurious fabrics like velvet, and intricate embellishments. These are ideal for dramatic and moody interiors.
• Casual: For a relaxed and inviting atmosphere, consider casual draperies. They often feature soft fabrics, relaxed folds, and a more informal look. Think of café curtains above the kitchen sink.

Lilie Linen Curtains | Brass Curtain Rod | Curtain Rings

Understanding Header Types

The header type is an important factor in determining the overall style of your draperies. Again, wanting a more tailored look for the dining room I chose a triple pinch pleat. Here are a few common options:

• Pinch Pleats: These pleats are created by pinching the fabric and stitching it in place. Pinch pleats are a versatile option that can be used for both tailored and dramatic styles. You can do a traditional pinch pleat, or a triple pinch pleat which uses more fabric and is therefore a fuller look.
• Rod Pocket: A simple header with a pocket that slides onto the curtain rod. This is a popular choice for casual and tailored draperies.
• Tab Top: Tabs are sewn into the top of the drapery, creating a casual and relaxed look.
• Grommets: Metal rings inserted into the top of the drapery, allowing the fabric to slide smoothly over the curtain rod. Grommets are often used for contemporary and industrial styles. To be perfectly honest, I’d advise against this option as it appears quite dated at this moment in time.

An example of a pinch pleat curtain header

Consider the lining

Lastly another important decision you’ll need to make is how you want your curtains lined. For a romatic and whispy effect, you can leave them unlined which will allow light to filter through. On the other hand, for privacy or insulation, you can go with blackout curtains which will create a heavier effect. In full transparency I chose blackout lined draperies and I wish I would’ve gone unlined.

Hanging the Rod

We’re going to skip ahead and touch on hanging the curtain rod next because that’s going to dictate how we measure for the drapery panels.

Rod Height

Hanging the curtain rod at the correct height can significantly impact the overall look of your room. As a general rule, hanging the rod 4-6 inches above the window casing is common practice. However, I personally prefer to take the rod all the way to the ceiling (or crown molding) as I think it creates a dramatic look. I also believe it makes the room appear larger and more grandeur.

Extending the Rod Past the Windows

You always want to extend the rod past the window to some degree. A good rule of thumb is to extend the rod 8-12 inches on each side. This allows the draperies to be fully open without blocking light and creates a more balanced look. If you’re tight on space or are close to a corner,  you can go as short as 4 inches if needed.

Faux Limelight Hydrangeas | Geometric Rug | Bubble Chandelier | Wallpaper

As you can see in the dining room, I went all the way up to the ceiling and extended the rod about 6 inches on each side. I decided this mostly due to the space in between the windows. I didn’t want to end up with a skinny strip of wallpaper and wanted to allow enough space to hang my pretty vintage mirror I found at an estate sale.

Measuring for Drapes

Ok now to the most important part: determining the size of  your draperies! Accurate measurements are essential for ensuring a perfect fit. Here’s a step-by-step guide:

Width

Measure the width of your installed curtain rod. Based on what level of fullness you want your draperies to have, you’ll either multiply this number by 1.5, or by 2. So for example lets say your rod is 40 inches long:

1. Tailored look ( x 1.5): 40 x 1.5 = 60 (each panel will be 60 inches wide)
2. Dramatic look (x 2): 40 x 2 = 80 (each panel will be 80 inches wide)

The key here is you want enough fabric to close the curtains without looking like you have a flat sheet hanging up. No one wants that!

Length

Determine the desired length of your draperies. For a floor-length look, measure from the top of the rod to the floor. If you prefer a puddle effect, add an extra 4-5 inches.

An important note: take into consideration how you’re hanging your curtains. For example if you have a pocket hole back or grommets, it will be straight forward. However if you’re considering pinch pleats you’ll have rings on your curtain rod. These will cause an extra 1-2 inch drop from the rod to the top of the draperies. Make sure you account for that in your measurements.

I measured for my curtains to “kiss the floor” which creates a tailored look.

My curtain details:

Brand: Homerilla

Type: Lille linen blackout

Pleat: triple French pleat

Color: Snow White

Length: 104”

Width: 36”

Lining type: 90% blackout

choosing and installing custom draperies reminder

Draperies are more than just window coverings; they’re a statement piece that can dramatically transform the look and feel of a room. From tailored classics to dramatic extravaganzas, the right draperies can add warmth, elegance, and personality to your space. Remember, the key to successful drapery design is to create a cohesive and inviting atmosphere that reflects your unique taste.

Links:

Homerilla custom curtains

Brass curtain rod

Brass curtain rod rings

Wallpaper

Paint: Du Jour by Valspar

Rug

Chandelier

Buster & Punch toggle light switch

Buster & Punch brass dimmer switch

Chairs (vintage) – similar

Table (no longer available)

Related:

Installing Custom Trim in the Dining Room

Shop the Dining Room

I am SO excited for today’s post, because today we’re talking all about the plans for the next project – and it’s a big one! If you’re subscribed to the monthly newsletter, you were the first to find out that the exterior of the house will be getting a facelift this month! While I had some other great options left on the 2024 project list (and have already made some great progress), the outside has been on my mind ever since I got a new garage door this spring.

Do you see what I mean? The new garage door was the gateway for this project!

Where we Started

When I first bought my house, I was so focused on the fact that I owned a giant brick house that reminded me of the Home Alone house (really, it was something I got so excited about) that I didn’t pay a lot of attention to exterior or even think I’d ever want to change it. But over time you start to notice things. And once I noticed that the trim of the house matched the mortar in between the bricks, I honestly couldn’t unsee it. It drove me up the wall.

On top of that, there’s been quite a bit of wood rot on the fascia and even around the front door way. They’re issues that are out of my scope to DIY and when I see them, I’m embarrassed by them. Literally the house is rotting in some spots.

A photo of the front during the winter so you can see all of the (yellow) trim

The Plans for the Exterior Makeover

So since we know how transformative paint can be, I’ve been daydreaming about covering up this dated yellow trim with something more stately. Originally I didn’t know what color family I was leaning towards until I started to think about some of the work I’ve been doing inside the house over the past couple years. It should come as no surprise I like things a little moody (did you see the primary bedroom flip?!), bold (ahem, the dining room) and classic (the primary bathroom and especially the wallpaper in the toilet room are the perfect examples). So I wanted the exterior to almost be a preview of what you could expect to find inside. And I’ve ALWAYS wanted a shiny black front door so that’s definitely on the list.

Earlier this year one of my neighbors did exactly what I had been daydreaming about and it reinforced my idea of going to the dark side. Her trim and windows were painted a dark charcoal grey and it instantly added a whole new shine to her home. That was all I needed to see to know I was on the right path.

My neighbor’s house with fresh charcoal trim. I love the updated look!

When it comes to my own house, as I’m sure you noticed, there’s a lot of trim work on the back side of the house, primarily on the deck. So I’m keeping that in mind as I think about colors. Going with a traditional black might be too jarring and may look blocky. But going too light might look dated quickly with the amount of sun this area gets. Just a few things I’m keeping in mind as I dive into a color palette rabbit hole!

Next Steps

Bricks in every house are completely different, so although I like my neighbor’s color choice, I know it may not necessarily work on mine. So I headed to Lowe’s and picked out a handful of color swatches (did you know they carry Sherwin-Williams paint now?!) and I got busy holding them up against the dark bricks on my house. I think we have a handful of front runners so far, so next steps will be getting some samples and painting trim on all sides of the house to see how they look with the different lighting throughout the day. I’m also dreaming of some new exterior lighting but that’s a post for another day.

Make sure you’re following along on socials to see how this project unfolds over the next month. I’ll be sharing the entire project from start to finish!

There’s nothing better than tomato season! August means ripe tomatoes and corn on the cob, so the timing is perfect to rotate this healthy summer side salad into your weekly menu. If you’re looking for a quick, healthy and crowd-pleasing side to add to your summer menu, look no further than this healthy corn, tomato, and avocado salad. Packed with vitamins and flavor, this dish tastes even better after a day in the fridge.

Healthy Corn, Tomato & Avocado Salad Recipe

Serves 6-8

Ingredients:

• 2 cups Roasted corn (fresh off the cob is best – about 2-3 ears)
• 1 small red onion, diced
• 1 English Cucumber, diced
• 2 pints cherry tomatoes quartered
• 2 large avocados, cubed
• 2 Limes, juiced
• ¼ cup olive oil
• 1 tsp salt
• 1 tsp pepper
• 1 tsp garlic powder

Instructions:

Prepare corn by either grilling cobs and slicing kernels off the ears, or preparing as instructed from frozen. While corn is grilling, quarter your cherry tomatoes, slice cucumbers, and dice onion avocados. Add to large bowl.

In a separate bowl, whisk together lime juice and olive oil. Add salt, pepper and garlic powder.

Combine all ingredients and mix well. Chill for 1-2 hours.

Dish can be served on its own as a side, or on top of a bed of baby spinach greens. Keeps in the fridge for 2-3 days.

Shop similar cabbage ware dish here

Other Recipes:

How to build a charcuterie board

Healthy Chili

No Bake Energy Ball Bites

Mini red velvet molten lava cakes

Homemade Cinnamon Rolls

Not too long ago, a type of paint called “chalk paint” was all the rage. I don’t know if it was the look of the finish that attracted people, or the ease of application, but everywhere you turned, something was being refinished with chalk paint. As with most things, what comes around goes around and chalk paint is no longer the life of the party. So now what? Well the good news is, it can be undone. The bad news is, it isn’t easy. So using my experience as a firsthand example, lets dive into how to remove chalk paint.

Back in 2011, I fell victim to purchasing a dresser that was painted in a pastel blue chalk paint. I’ve never really liked the color, so I think I must have been attracted to the shape of the actual piece itself, but I remember being so excited about it. I purchased it from Etsy and paid way too much for shipping, but you don’t know what you don’t know.

With the recent primary bedroom flip, the time has finally come to remove the robin’s egg blue and transform this vintage dresser into the beauty I know it can be. It has wonderful bones and after I started evolving the color scheme in the bedroom, I knew the full gloss chocolate paint I had leftover from the powder room would be perfect for it.

How to Remove Chalk Paint

Step 1: Prep the Piece

Just like anything, before you start digging in, you want to prep your workspace. Wipe down the furniture, remove the hardware and prep the surrounding area. I wasn’t able to move this heavy piece out of the room, so I invested in a spray shelter and it was the best $40 I could have spent. They come in all shapes and sizes and even zip up to keep dirt out (this is the one I used).

Step 2: Removing the wax

If you’ve painted before, you’re no stranger to sanding your woodwork to ensure your new paint has something to grip to. While the objective is the same in the end, there’s another layer (quite literally!) involved with this. The goal here is to remove the wax finish that’s over your chalk paint. If you don’t, the new paint / stain will not adhere to your furniture and you’ll have to start all over again. So this is important!

Use an 80 grit sandpaper and sand with the grain until you start to see the shine wearing off the furniture. Be warned this is very messy and the dust goes everywhere. Wear old clothes, gloves and a mask. If you’re going to be repainting your furniture a color, then there’s no need to go all the way down to the wood grain. The goal here is to simply remove the top coat of wax. If you’re not painting your furniture another color, you’ll want to keep going until you get down to the wood grain.

Step 3: Smooth things over

After you’ve been thorough with the heavy grit sandpaper, clean any loose dust with a shop vacuum. Then run a fine grit sandpaper over all surfaces to smooth things out. This should be relatively light work, but will likely still yield colored chalk paint dust.

Step 4: Tack Test

This was where I found my work was tested. Vacuum or wipe any loose dust that’s visible and then grab your tack cloth. Gently run the tack cloth over all surfaces and pay attention to see if the cloth wants to grip any spots. If you find the cloth not smoothly gliding over your furniture, inspect that area thoroughly. Chances are, there’s residual wax that needs to be removed.

If so, repeat steps 2-4 until the tack cloth glides across all surfaces.

Now assuming you’re painting your furniture a color and not restoring to a wood finish…

Step 5: Prime

The good news is the hard part is over! This is the last step before you get to paint your furniture a new color! Depending on which color you’re painting your piece, prime it with either a regular primer or tinted primer. I found one coat to be sufficient for my dresser, however I did go ahead and have it tinted since I was painting the dresser a chocolate brown.

Step 6: Paint!

You’re finally ready to paint! Paint as you normally would and enjoy this process because the chalk paint is far behind you!

Alternatives for how to remove chalk paint?

I did a ton of research on this project before I even touched a piece of sandpaper. There were many suggestions out there ranging from mineral spirits to a heat gun to turpentine. Ultimately I decided to stick to the devil I knew which was sanding. I did not personally paint this furniture the first go around, so I didn’t know what the original woodwork was or looked like, and I didn’t want to run the risk of damaging it. It’s a little bit more work, but if you’re on the fence about how to remove chalk paint, I’d highly recommend sanding because you have full control.

The final dresser flip

After I painted the body of the dresser and the drawers in Farrow & Ball’s London Clay, it was time to focus on the hardware. I used Rub ‘n’ Buff in Spanish Copper and didn’t focus on trying to make it perfect. I like that some of the original darkness of the hardware is peeking through the copper, as I think it gives it a warm patina.

The paint is still a bit tacky which is why I have the plaster coasters underneath just to be safe!

I honestly cannot believe this is the same piece of furniture I started with! Although it was not an easy flip (and I don’t think furniture flipping is in my future) I’m very proud of the final result from this project. It adds a pop of interest to the overall room, while coexisting perfectly with the moody color palette. I’m so happy I was able to restore and up-cycle this piece of furniture rather than buy something new.

If you have any questions about this project, drop them below in the comments section and I’ll do my best to answer!

Can you believe we’re nearing the end of July?! Me either! This year has truly flown by and I know (as always) it’s going to speed up as we get closer to the holidays. As I’ve had my head down and deep into projects, I thought it would be a great time for a 2024 project list progress report. How have I done? What can I still do? And what do we need to move to next year? Lets see…

Completed:

Dining Room Molding – check!

While this was a smaller project in concept, it was a big moment for me personally. I conquered my fear of power tools and it gave me the momentum to dream bigger for upcoming projects.

The dining room was also the perfect room to give this kind of work a test drive so to speak. With the chair rail already in place, and plenty of doors and windows, there wasn’t much planning needed and there was limited math to do.

shop the dining room here

I love how this custom trim really elevates the already traditional space and I couldn’t be happier with how this turned out. If you’re thinking about planning custom trim in one of your spaces, I’ve put together everything I used for this project right here.

Back Entry Way – check!

This was one of the first projects I tackled this year and it’s had such a gigantic impact on flow. The wallpaper and fresh trim color really bridge the gap between the cozy tv room and kitchen. When I look at before photos of this space I shudder and can’t believe I didn’t tackle this sooner. It feels so welcoming and it gave me a chance to add some more wallpaper to the house. A win-win!

shop the back entry here

In Progress

Primary Bedroom – in progress but almost check!

I went through a rollercoaster ride of designs for the primary bedroom but finally landed on color drenching the space. And I’m so glad I did. After I decided I would add custom molding in this space and color drench it in a deep green, I really tried to let go of getting into any more details. Aside from ordering a new bed in advance, I wanted the design to guide me as I worked.

shop my custom trim supplies here

I’m so close to being as close to finished as I can be at this point, and I can’t wait to share photos and videos with you. You can see a sneak peek above of the color drench in Farrow & Ball’s Treron (it’s so good!). I plan on collecting some pieces (lamps, a rug, and a chandelier) so won’t be a full reveal, but it will still be a dramatic before and after. I’m not in a rush to “finish” this room as I really want everything to feel perfect. And so far it does.

Exterior – in progress

The exterior of the house is going to get an “in progress” sticker. I was able to add a new garage door into the mix, and while it’s not the most fun way to spend your money, the addition has been a huge upgrade both visually and functionally.

What’s left to do otherwise? Well, quite a bit. I really hope to get my trim and gutters painted by the end of 2024. I found someone doing exactly what I envisioned for my house literally right across the street, but he has yet to call me back. I’m going to keep on him and see if I can get a quote before moving onto another contractor.

If you can believe it, this photo was AFTER I landscaped. It’s time to bring in some pro’s.

After the painting, I’ll still need to do landscaping. At this point, I’m going to table that for 2025 as I want any new plants to have the best chance of surviving. It doesn’t make sense to install new landscaping only to have it trampled by painters. It also doesn’t make sense to install new landscaping right before winter.

I’ll be adding a couple more things to this category for 2025 as well. I’m in need of a new front and side door, so those will be new additions. And I also need to decide what I’m doing with my front steps. The bricks keep falling out and I’m worried someone is going to get hurt. I also really don’t like the look of them and would prefer a more traditional staircase with a black wrought iron railing. This is a new department for me so I have a bit of research to do before I let my imagination run wild!

To Do:

Laundry Room

I had every intention of tackling the laundry room this spring but a podcast stopped me in my tracks. The episode I was listening to challenged listeners to think about how they use their spaces and what they need out of them before they jump into the designing process. I sat with that thought for a while and realized my laundry room is the command center for the first floor. It’s not just a laundry room. It’s storage for cleaning supplies, wrapping paper, pool towels, a turkey cooker, tablecloths and every day tools. And quite frankly I have many more odds and ends that should be living in this space.

I’m now realizing this is going to need to be a VERY customized space where I need to max out every inch, and I need to ensure it’s functioning in the most optimal way. I’m not saying the laundry room won’t make the cut in 2024, but it may be wisest to move it to 2025.

My Office

My home office is still on the agenda for 2024, and I’m feeling really confident about checking it off the list. I’m currently in the middle of deciding if I want to do more custom molding (like a chair rail and box trim) with a wallpaper mural on top. Or if I want to just repaint and focus on collecting antique pieces that inspire me for this space. Either way, I’m so excited to tackle this space next. I’m considering doing this for the fall One Room Challenge!

The Kitchen

The kitchen. Perhaps my most exhausting thing to think about. I’ve gone round and round with what to do here. One day I’m ready to rip out all of the cabinets and start over. Another day I’m daydreaming about bumping out the house altogether. And then I consider just repainting the cabinets and getting new countertops. Last week I was daydreaming about attaching a rolling library ladder to the 90’s soffits. At least they’d be good for something then, right?

What I know for sure, is that I need to take EVERYTHING out of my cupboards, and I need to think about how I use the space, what I need out of it, and what I’m not currently getting out of it. And also, could I be doing anything better from a storage perspective? From there I hope I’ll know what to do next. I want this to be a truly intentional design, as it’s going to be the biggest renovation to date. Stay tuned to see what happens in the heart of the home!

How are your 2024 goals and projects coming along? I always find it helpful to look back and it gives me some momentum to move forward. If you haven’t checked in with yourself lately, I encourage you to give it a try!

A couple months ago when I installed picture frame molding in the dining room, I had a sneaking suspicion that it was going to be addicting. I just didn’t know how addicting! All of a sudden, I wanted it in every room in the house. However, I’m a firm believer that there can be too much of a good thing. After wrestling with the primary bedroom design for months, I decided it would be the perfect space for my next round of custom trim. With a blank canvas to work from and vaulted ceilings to consider, I had a lot of design decisions to make. Today I’m pulling the curtain back and sharing how I designed custom trim in my primary bedroom.

Defining the Plan

If I’m being honest, I went round and round designing the primary bedroom for months. At first I was going to do a mural with colored trim, doors and ceiling. But after ordering some samples it didn’t feel right. I couldn’t let go of the idea of wallpaper quite yet, so I thought about installing a chair rail and box molding on the lower third of the wall with wallpaper on the top two thirds (similar to the dining room). I mocked it up and that didn’t feel right either.

Enter the plan to add floor to ceiling molding and color drench the space. This finally felt right, and I felt less boxed in with the initial concept (pun intended). From this point, the decisions were if I wanted a chair rail to separate the boxes, or if I wanted to go with just boxes. If just boxes, then two stacked or three stacked. Seriously, there were a lot of decisions to make.

How I designed Custom Trim

To help narrow down the options, I took some still photos of the space and uploaded them into the design program Canva. I started on the wall with the windows first, placing boxes on top of each window. Seeing the larger space above the windows (which stretch to the floor) helped me realize this design makes the most sense with two boxes vs three. I think if my ceilings were 10 feet vs 9 feet, stacking three boxes would’ve worked.

To keep things balanced, I copied the height of the boxes above the windows and mirrored that height on the bottom portion of each wall. So if there was a box above a door frame or a window, on the next windowless/doorless area, there would be the same height of box on the bottom of that wall, and then a larger box on top.

Measuring and Spacing the Custom Trim

When I designed custom trim in my dining room trim, I used a leftover piece of my white oak hardwood flooring, which measures 3.5” in width as my “spacer.” This helped simplify the measuring of the boxes because all I had to do was add this spacer in between the top, bottoms and sides of all boxes.

So for example, there is 3.5” in between the top of my baseboards and bottom of my picture frame trim. There’s 3.5” in between all boxes next to one another. There’s 3.5” between the top of the picture frame trim and the ceiling. The only exception is when you get to corners of the room, as there’s a total of 7” in between the trim. 3.5” from trim to corner, and another 3.5” from corner to the next piece of trim. It’s a bit easier to follow visually so you can see the measurements in the photos below!

The two biggest measuring decisions I had to make was on the wall behind the bed, as well as the wall behind the dresser. Starting with the bed, I decided I wanted the trim to frame both my nightstands and the new bed. So I started with the nightstands and measured wide enough to stretch just past my nightstands. Then used the 3.5” spacer, and the remaining middle space stretch just outside of the bed. I thought it would look a little odd to have the molding placed inside of the bed, and now seeing it after the fact I stand by this decision.

The wall behind my dresser was the biggest head scratcher, simply because the dresser is centered on the wall, however the door to my closet is also on this wall. So I had a box above the closet door and then an uneven amount of wall to play with. Ultimately, rather than do two equal sized boxes, I decided to mirror the narrow / long box with the wider box design as the wall behind the bed. The door to the closet serves as it’s own version of the third narrow box.

Installing the Custom Trim

For me, the profile of trim really makes or breaks it from a design perspective. I want something visually interesting, especially in such a large space like this bedroom. I found this primed trim at Home Depot and love the profile of it, and the price was on point as well!

After I measured the boxes, I drew them onto the wall in pencil just to be sure. This also helped me measure twice so I could cut once. I used the same miter saw I purchased for the dining room project (this is truly a great beginner tool if you’re in the market!) and cut my trim to length.

Using my brad nailer and 2” brad nails, I nailed each piece into place, one box at a time. Even though I had lines drawn on the wall, I made sure to use both my wood spacer as well as a level just to make sure everything lined up. Sometimes the nails don’t always go all the way in, so this handy nail tap set will help you make sure they’re flush. These come in three sizes and thanks to a small bevel on the tip, they stay on the brad nail head while you tap in with your hammer.

I filled all nail holes with wood filler, caulked inside & outside each box, and then sanded until everything was smooth. I’ll admit, this is not the most exciting part of the process, but it’s so essential for achieving that high end look.

Next Steps

The next steps will be color drenching! We’ll prep the entire space by filling all nail holes in the walls and sanding to make sure everything is smooth. From there we’ll wash the walls, trim and ceiling to ensure there won’t be any dust in the paint, and then we’ll be ready to prime everything. And then it’s the fun part: color drenching the entire room! The space is 18′ x 14′ with a vaulted ceiling, so it will certainly be a process, but I know it will be worth it. Make sure you’re following along on socials to watch everything unfold!

If you’re interested in giving this project a try, here is everything I used to DIY my own. I stand by each of these products and would highly recommend them!

Kobalt Miter Saw

Ryobi Brad Nailer (make sure you get the battery and charger too if you don’t already have one!)

1.5″ or 2” brad nails

Woodgrain Millwork 11/16 in x 1-3/8in x 96in moulding

Caulk Gun

DAP Caulk

Wood Filler

Sanding Paper or blocks

Hammer

Level

Tape Measure

Nail Punch Set

Safety Glasses

Copper! It’s the metal that adds warmth, character, and a touch of timeless elegance to our homes. From gleaming pots and pans to stunning hammered sinks, copper elevates everyday objects into design statements. Recently I found a beautiful copper wine cooler at an estate sale, but it definitely needed a little TLC. Being my first copper piece, I had to do a little research on the best way to restore it, so I want to share my top tips for how to clean copper.

Before vs After

Conquering Tarnish: Your Copper Cleaning Arsenal

Tarnished copper? No problem! Here’s a breakdown of cleaning methods, from natural options to some store-bought heroes:

• The Natural Wonders:
  • The Lemony Scrub: This classic method uses the power of citric acid found in lemons. Cut a lemon in half, sprinkle some salt (coarse or table salt works) on the fleshy side, and scrub the tarnish goodbye. Rinse thoroughly with warm water and dry with a soft cloth.
  • The Vinegar Powerhouse: Vinegar’s acidity tackles tarnish with ease. Mix equal parts white vinegar and water in a bowl. Dip a microfiber cloth in the solution, wring it slightly to avoid dripping, and buff the tarnished areas. For stubborn tarnish, let the vinegar solution sit for a few minutes before scrubbing. Rinse well and dry completely.
• The Ketchup Surprise: Yes, you read that right! Ketchup’s acidity can be surprisingly effective on mild tarnish. Apply a generous amount of ketchup to the copper and let it sit for 15-20 minutes. The vinegar in the ketchup helps loosen the tarnish, making it easier to buff away with a damp cloth. Rinse thoroughly and dry completely.
• Bar Keepers Friend to the Rescue: This popular cleaning powder is a powerhouse against tarnish. There are several different types of Bar Keepers Friend, but for this project I like to use the Bar Keepers Friend Soft Cleanser. Use a microfibercloth and gently rub the liquid onto your piece and then wipe clean with a fresh cloth. Always do a spot test on an inconspicuous area first to ensure it doesn’t scratch your copper.

Bonus Tip: For heavily tarnished or intricate pieces, create a paste using salt, flour, and vinegar. Mix equal parts salt and flour, then add enough vinegar to form a thick consistency. Apply the paste with a soft cloth, buff gently, and rinse thoroughly.

Sealing the Deal: Preventing Future Tarnish

Now that your copper is sparkling, let’s keep it that way! Copper tarnishes naturally when exposed to air. Here’s how to add a protective layer especially if you went with an all natural cleaning method noted above:

• Wax On, Tarnish Off: Apply a thin coat of furniture wax to the clean, dry copper surface. Buff with a soft cloth to create a barrier that helps slow down tarnishing. Reapply the wax every few months for lasting protection.
• An every day option: you likely have some form of mineral oil in your kitchen. While not as strong as a furniture wax, mineral oil will also help seal copper and add at least a small level of protection from air.
• Lacquer Love: For a more durable option, consider using a clear lacquer specifically designed for copper. This creates a stronger barrier but requires more care during application. Ensure proper ventilation and follow the product instructions carefully.

Remember: Patina, the natural green or brown film that forms on copper over time, can be beautiful in its own right. If you prefer the antiqued look, you don’t necessarily need to clean and seal your copper.

All In One Copper Cleaning options

Short on time and looking for a one stop shop? There are options for you! While I haven’t personally tried these yet, I’ve done some research and these look like well reviewed options.

Wright’s Copper & Brass Polishing Cream: apply this thick cream all over and gently massage it into your piece. After a short time, wipe the cream off with a fresh rag and not only will your copper be clean, but it will be sealed too! I’m adding this one to my shopping cart for next time!

Brasso Metal Polishing cream: Brasso does exactly what it says it will do, and is good for all metals. So if you have a variety of finishes in your home, this should definitely be in your cleaning cupboard!

With a little cleaning know-how and some clever sealing tricks, your copper can continue to be a shining star in your home decor. So grab your lemons, vinegar, ketchup (or Bar Keepers Friend!), and get ready to bring back the brilliance. If you’re thinking of adding copper into your home, I hope this guide will be helpful for whatever your needs may be!

If you’re in love with this copper wine cooler as much as I am, I’ve rounded up a few similar pieces from the resale market. You can shop them HERE!

I’ve been itching to tackle my next big project for what feels like forever. While yes we’ve made some progress with the 2024 project list (hello back entry flip and dining room molding) there are some big spaces that have been calling my name. If you follow along in my monthly newsletter, you’re up to speed on the design block I’ve been struggling with over the past few months. I went round and round trying to land on my next design and it was so frustrating. But rather than try to push through it, I slowed down and let my intuition guide me. And it guided me right into designing…

The Primary Bedroom!

The Primary Bedroom Design Now + Then

Similar to the rest of the house, the primary bedroom has already undergone a mini-transformation from when I bought the house in 2018. I’ve removed the popcorn ceilings, ripped up the shag carpet and installed white oak hardwoods and re-painted the blue grey walls to a calming neutral (Accessible Beige – one of my favorites!). I also took down one of 11 ceiling fans and added a pink fringe chandelier. There was really no thought process there, I just liked it.

Was it ever intended to be the final design? No. But it was enough to stop my eyes from bouncing all around the room, and served as a band-aid while I tended to some other larger projects like the cozy tv room, dining room and the rest of the primary suite (closet and bathroom).

The Primary Bedroom 2.0

So what does the next chapter look like for this space? Calming. Relaxing. Retreat like. And a touch of luxe. After installing picture frame molding in the dining room, I know I want to do the same in this space. I’m working through exactly what the boxes will look like, but I’ve started sketching and am so excited about how it’s going to look in this large room.

And we’re certainly going to color drench. I’ve been bookmarking some warm dark smoky greens and can’t wait to buy some samples to start painting swatches on the walls. Right now Vintage Vogue by Benjamin Moore is my front runner, however I have a sample booklet on the way from Little Greene which I’m very excited to review.

Furniture wise it’s a bit of a mixed bag. I’ve had a saga in this room from the get go. To make a long story short, I rushed a decision out of desperation and ordered a bed that I’ve hated since it arrived. As painful as it is to correct a mistake like this from a financial perspective, it’s the right choice. I ordered the Finnea Bed from Anthropolgie and know that it’s going to be absolutely perfect in this room! The feeling I had after I clicked the “purchase” button was confirmation this was the right decision.

Shop the Primary Bedroom mood board

Looking Forward…

Rather than fully flush out the entire design, I’m going to focus on these 3 core elements and allow the design to guide me as I work. As I visit estate sales over the next several weeks, I hope to source new nightstands, lamps (I’m dreaming of marble lamps against smoky green walls), a vintage rug and some artwork. I’ll fill in the rest of the design with draperies and bedding based on what colors and patterns I need (when we get to that stage).

One thing I’m still working through is the plan for my dresser. I purchased my current dresser off Etsy over a decade ago and love the furniture piece itself, but the color is going to need to change. Part of me is considering painting it the same color as the walls & trim, but in a high gloss sheen. Add a little Rub ‘n’ Buff to the handles and I think it would really pop in the room!

For now, I’m going to focus on getting the molding ironed out and take this project one step at a time. Be sure you’re following along on socials to catch all the action. It’s never a dull moment around here! I can’t wait to share the journey with you and watch this space transform into the charming retreat I know it can be.

Summer is right around the corner and for many of us that means vacations, busy schedules and longer days. One of my favorite grab-and-go snacks to have on hand are these no bake energy ball bites. With only 5 ingredients and no oven time, they’re a breeze to put together and make for a healthy (and easy) on-the-go snack. Save this recipe to indulge your sweet tooth without sabotaging your diet!

Ingredients

(makes 12 servings)

1 Cup of rolled oats

½ Cup flax meal

 2/3 Cup almond butter

5 Tablespoons maple syrup

½ Cup dark chocolate chips

Directions

1. Line baking sheet with parchment paper
2. Add all ingredients to bowl and mix with a spoon
3. Roll 12 equal sized balls and place on baking sheet
4. Refrigerate 2-4 hours or until firm

You can store these no bake energy balls in a sealed container for up to a week. I like to double the recipe and freeze half for future use. This recipe is gluten free and has minimum added sugar (save the dark chocolate chips).

Nutrition Facts (per 1 serving):

Calories: 206

Total Fat: 12.7g

Total Carbohydrates 21g

Protein 5.9g

No Bake Energy Ball Variations

There are many ways to customize this snack and it all depends on your taste. Some ideas to get you started…

Spice it up: adding spices like cinnamon, pumpkin pie spice  or even all-spice could add a seasonal flare to this snack.

Even easier prep: not into rolling individual balls? Press the batter into a lined 8×8 pan, chill and then cut into bars. If you have a pan with a lid, then you can store as is.

Play with flavor: in addition to spices you can substitute other nut butters for the almond butter. You can even add in toasted coconut, dried cranberries, sunflower seeds or another chocolate variation. Sea salt on top never hurt either!

Explore My Other Recipes:

Healthy Chili

Homemade Cinnamon Rolls

Mini Red Velvet Molten Lava Cakes

Late last year I found myself going to a handful of estate sales, all in the hopes of finding some Shiny Brite vintage ornaments for my Christmas tree. While I was able to find a handful of ornaments, I also found something else: the power of estate sales. You see, estate sales can help you create a collected home that looks like it stepped out of a magazine (without the magazine price tag!). Over the past few months, I’ve found everything from $10k+ vintage rugs to oil paintings to high end furniture. And today, I’m going to share my tips for how to find estate sales.

Estate sales are a treasure trove for unique pieces that tell a story. But with so many sales happening, how do you find the good ones? Well, my secret weapon is the EstateSales.net app! Let me show you how I use it to curate my estate sale adventures.

Lets Get Set Up

First things first, download and fire up the EstateSales.net app. Once you open it up, you’ll be able to set your location as well as a radius of how far you’re willing to travel for a sale. I like to set mine to 50 miles.

After inputting your radius, you’ll see a map with sales pinpointed in your area. But hold on to your hats, we don’t want to waste time visiting every single sale. The key is to filter the results to show only the sales that are most likely to have the pieces you’re interested in.

Filtering Your Way to Fabulous Finds

• Location, Location, Location: I love a good bargain, but I also factor in travel time. So, I usually filter the map to focus on upscale areas of town. These areas tend to have sales with higher-quality furniture and décor.
• Been There, Loved That: Did you visit an estate sale by a particular company that had a great selection and vibe? Many estate sale companies run multiple sales throughout the year, and some even have a sale each week! The EstateSales.net app lets you filter by company, so you can see if any of your favorites have upcoming sales.
• The Power of Pictures: A picture is worth a thousand words, especially when it comes to estate sales! The app lets you see photos from each sale. I use them to get a sense of the overall style and types of items that will be available. If I see a photo with a piece of furniture that makes my heart skip a beat, or a room with a similar aesthetic to my home, that sale jumps to the top of my list! Everyone’s style is unique, so this will be different for each of us.

Make a Plan

• Pre-Scouting: The EstateSales.net app will let you look 14 days out. Most estate sale companies will at least have their sale listed, but details like photos may not be fully uploaded until a couple days before the sale. Spend the beginning of your week identifying sales that might be of interest and favoriting them. You’ll get emails if any changes (like new photos) are made to the sale.
• Heart It: If you’ve found a couple sales you’re interested in, start combing through the photos. Take the time to open each photo, zoom in and scan it. The estate sale companies focus on the hot ticket items and larger items (they do not have time to take a photo of every single item in the house). My zooming in, you may see items in the background that are of interest. Favorite the photo so you can come back to it later.
• Last Minute Sales: This happens less often than not, but occasionally you’ll see one or two sales pop up late in the week. Make sure you’re doing one last scroll through the app on Thursday so you don’t miss anything.
• Game Plan: Some weekends there might be no sales, other weekends there may only be one that you like, but sometimes there will be many! This is where saving things you like comes in handy. Start comparing your favorite items, prioritize the sales and make sure you’re using your time wisely.

A few recent estate sale finds from top left clockwise: antique red books, french bouillette lamp, antique oil painting, sarouk rug

Beyond the App: Trusting Your Intuition

The EstateSales.net app is a fantastic tool, but there’s another ingredient to the estate sale hunting equation: intuition. Sometimes, a sale might not have the most glamorous photos, but there’s just a certain je ne sais quoi that tells me they might have hidden gems. Maybe it’s the location in a historic district, or the mention of a “downsizing designer.” These are my little nudges to go check out a sale in person, and often, they pay off!

So, there you have it, my friends! With the EstateSales.net app and a dash of intuition, you’re well on your way to scoring unique finds and crafting a collected home that reflects your personality. Now, get out there and start hunting!

Related:

Expert tips for successful antiquing adventures

Tips for buying vintage / used furniture

Have you ever bumped into an object and instantly craved to know its history, find similar styles, or even translate that fancy French label on the back? Well, fret no more! Google Lens is here to be your visual search companion, a digital magnifying glass that unlocks a world of information right through your phone’s camera.

Whether you’re a seasoned thrifter hunting for vintage gems, an interior design enthusiast seeking inspiration, or simply someone curious about the world around you, Google Lens can be a game-changer. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll delve into everything you need to know to become a Google Lens pro!

Unveiling the Power: What Can Google Lens Do?

Google Lens boasts a range of impressive functionalities, making it a versatile tool for various situations. Here are some of its key features:

• Object Recognition: Point your camera at an object, and Lens will identify it. This can be anything from a specific plant species to a type of furniture or a historical landmark. It even deciphers text, so no more struggling with foreign language labels!
• Similar Product Search: Found a dress you love on someone else or spotted a stunning lamp in a magazine? Capture it with Lens, and it will scour the web for similar styles you can purchase online.
• Text Extraction and Translation: Need to copy text from a physical document, business card, or even a poster in a foreign language? Lens can extract the text and allow you to copy it or translate it to your preferred language.
• Shopping Assistant: See an item you want to buy but can’t find any information about it? Lens can identify the product and provide links to online retailers where you can purchase it.
• Identify Landmarks and Artwork: Traveling or simply curious about a building or piece of art? Lens can provide historical information, reviews, and other relevant details.

Accessing Google Lens: There’s More Than One Way!

The good news is that Google Lens is readily available on most modern devices. Here’s how to access it depending on your setup:

• The Dedicated Google Lens App: This is the most straightforward option. Download the free “Google Lens” app from the App Store (for iPhone) or Google Play Store (for Android). Once installed, open the app and point your camera at the object you want to identify.
• The Camera Icon within the Google App: No matter what type of smartphone you have, you likely have the google app installed on it. Open the app and you’ll see a search bar, and then a microphone icon and a camera icon to the right of it. The camera icon is Google Lens. This is how I personally use Google Lens.
• Integration with Your Camera App: Many Android phones (including some Samsung models) have Google Lens built directly into the camera app. Look for the Lens icon (it might be a magnifying glass symbol or say “Lens” next to it). The exact location may vary depending on your phone model.

Using Google Lens: Mastering the Visual Search

Once you’ve accessed Google Lens, using it is delightfully simple! We’ll use a real example of a horse I found at an Estate Sale that was priced at $450. I ended up getting it for $70 because of Google Lens!

Here’s a step-by-step guide:

Point and Focus: Open the Google Lens app or activate the Lens feature in your camera app. Aim your camera at the object you want to identify or get information about. A white box will appear around the detected item for better focus.

Capture or Select: If using the dedicated app, you can either tap the shutter button to capture an image or use a photo already saved on your device by tapping the gallery icon. If using Lens in your camera app, capturing the image might happen automatically.

Analyze and Explore: Google Lens will analyze the image and display relevant information on your screen. This could include the object’s name, a brief description, links to similar products, translated text, historical details (for landmarks or artwork), or even solutions to math problems (depending on the complexity).

Advanced Tips and Tricks: Unleashing the Full Potential

Now that you’ve grasped the basics, here are some additional tips to maximize your Google Lens experience:

• Multitasking with Multiple Objects: Google Lens can often detect and analyze multiple objects within a single image frame. Simply tap on the specific object you’re interested in to get detailed information.
• Offline Mode (Limited Functionality): While an internet connection is ideal for optimal results, Google Lens can recognize some objects and translate text even when offline. However, the range of functionalities will be limited.
• Context Matters: For optimal results, try to capture clear and well-lit images. The more context you provide within the frame (like including the brand logo or surrounding details), the better Lens can understand and analyze the object.

Beyond the Basics: Google Lens for Inspiration and Everyday Life

Here are some creative ways to integrate Google Lens into your daily routine and fuel your design inspiration:

• Interior Design Inspiration: Spotted a gorgeous living room layout in a magazine? Snap a picture and use Lens to identify furniture styles, lighting fixtures, or even paint colors. You can then use this information to recreate the look in your own home.
• Thrifting Like a Pro: Stumbled upon a vintage treasure at a flea market but unsure of its value? Use Lens to research its origin and identify similar pieces currently for sale. This helps you negotiate a fair price and score amazing deals.
• DIY Projects and Upcycling: Have an old dresser that needs a refresh? Take a picture with Lens and find inspiration for paint colors, hardware updates, or even decoupage ideas. Trying to sell old clothes or home goods? Find similar items and corresponding pricing.
• Travel Companion: Visiting a new city and curious about a historical building? Aim your camera at it, and Lens can provide historical context, reviews, and opening hours.
• Learning on the Go: Spotted an interesting plant species on your hike? Use Lens to identify it and learn about its care needs.

The Future of Google Lens: A World of Possibilities

Google Lens is constantly evolving, and with advancements in artificial intelligence, its capabilities are expected to expand further. Imagine using Lens to translate menus in real-time, identify ingredients in a recipe, or even get detailed instructions on how to repair something around the house – all through the magic of your phone’s camera.

So, the next time you encounter something intriguing in the real world, don’t just walk by. Whip out your phone, activate Google Lens, and unlock a world of information and inspiration. With this powerful tool at your fingertips, the possibilities are truly endless!

Have you ever used Rub N Buff? If you’re not familiar, it’s a metallic paint used for arts, crafts and restoration. It can be used on anything from picture frames to furniture, and can help breathe new life into an old piece or customize something that’s not quite to your liking. The Rub N Buff collection comes in a variety of colors which is great but I’ll admit, it can be a bit overwhelming. Today I’m sharing an overview of the Rub N Buff gold collection & color guide which will hopefully help you narrow down your options.

The Rub N Buff Gold Collection

Antique Gold: The Timeless Touch

Let’s begin with the ever-popular Antique Gold. This warm, inviting hue is a fantastic choice for achieving that classic, timeworn look on furniture or frames. Think of it as an aged gold, perfect for projects with a touch of vintage charm.

Autumn Gold: A Rich, Earthy Shimmer

Craving something a little more unexpected? Autumn Gold might be your perfect match. This radiant shade leans towards a coppery warmth, with hints of red peeking through the golden sheen. It’s a beautiful way to introduce warmth and depth into your design scheme. Imagine it accenting a dark wood table or adding a touch of fiery elegance to a picture frame.

European Gold: A Subtle Sophistication

If understated luxury is your aesthetic, then European Gold is calling your name. This cool-toned gold boasts a subtle champagne nuance, making it ideal for projects where you want a hint of gold without overwhelming shine. It pairs exceptionally well with lighter colors and clean lines, lending a touch of Parisian chic to your space.

Gold Leaf: The Classic Gleam

For those who love the radiance of pure gold, look no further than Gold Leaf. This bright and bold shade offers a rich, brassy gleam that instantly elevates any surface. It’s ideal for adding a touch of drama to a room or highlighting decorative details on furniture or millwork.

Grecian Gold: The Dark and Mysterious

Grecian Gold is a deep, bronzy gold with a hint of warmth. It would work wonders on dramatic furniture pieces or as an accent on picture frames or decorative objects.

Choosing Your Perfect Rub N Buff Gold

So, which Rub N Buff gold is right for you? Consider the overall tone of your space and the feeling you want to evoke. Remember, with Rub N Buff, a little goes a long way. You can always build up the intensity for a more dramatic effect. Don’t be afraid to experiment on a hidden surface before committing to your final design. If you’re still not sure, you can buy the Rub N Buff Gold Sampler Pack.

Pro Tip: Rub N Buff can be buffed to a high shine or left more muted for a softer effect. This allows you to further customize the final look to suit your taste.

With its easy application and wide range of colors, Rub N Buff golds open up a world of design possibilities. So, don’t be afraid to test out different colors and even mix & match!

Rub N Buff Gold In My House

So why have I shared all this? Well recently I was on the hunt for a little side table to put next to my clawfoot tub in the primary bathroom. The Visual Comfort Martini Table I really wanted was a bit out of my price range at $479. However I was determined to recreate the look for less and found a similar option on Amazon for only $60. The only downside was it was black instead of brass (the brass was indefinitely sold out).

Being unsure about which Rub N Buff Gold to use on my own table, I purchased the sampler kit and tested out all the options. In the end I went with European Gold with Gold Leaf lightly rubbed on top. I was able to achieve the look for less and saved $400 thanks to Rub N Buff. What do you think? Would you try this?

As of recently, I’ve been growing more and more obsessed with incorporating vintage finds into my designs. Not only does it add a layer of unique character, but it’s also way more sustainable than buying brand new. While looking for antique trinkets is one thing, hunting for hidden gems such as vintage furniture secondhand is an entirely different league and can be a bit daunting. That dusty thrift store chair might be a mid-century masterpiece, or it could just be…dusty.

A vintage wingback chair I recently scored at a local antique shop!

To be most helpful, I’ve put together this ultimate guide to help you unearth those hidden vintage gems, whether you’re a seasoned thrifter or a curious newbie. Lets break it down!

The Treasure Trove: Where to Look for Vintage Furniture Secondhand

• In-Person Adventures:
  • Thrift Stores & Consignment Shops: These are your classic hunting grounds! Goodwill, Salvation Army, local charity shops – they all offer a treasure trove of possibilities at fantastic prices. Be prepared to dig, but the thrill of the find is unbeatable.
  • Estate Sales: Calling all early birds! Estate sales often have hidden gems from a bygone era. Ask the seller about the history of the piece – you might just score a conversation starter with a fascinating backstory.
  • Antique Stores: For the curated experience, head to antique stores. Expect higher prices, but you’ll find well-maintained pieces with a higher chance of authenticity.
• Lets Get Online:
  • Facebook Marketplace & Craigslist: The online world is teeming with pre-loved furniture! Set search filters for your desired style and location to narrow things down. Be cautious of deals that seem too good to be true, and always arrange to see the furniture in person before buying.
  • Etsy: Think Etsy is just for crafts? Think again! Many shops specialize in beautifully restored vintage furniture like this Victorian sofa. The benefit here is the detailed descriptions and high-quality photos, but prices can be on the higher end and be prepared to pay shipping.
  • Ebay: An oldie but a goodie! Ebay offers a vast selection of vintage furniture, but be prepared to sift through a lot of…well, stuff. If you know what you’re looking for and exactly what it’s called, you can narrow down results quickly (For example this vintage writers chair by Ralph Lauren). Read descriptions carefully, check seller reviews, and never hesitate to ask questions.

Become an Inspector Gadget: Questions to Ask

• Before You Go: is this from a pet free home? A non-smoking home?
• What’s the history of the piece? Knowing the age and origin can help you determine value and authenticity.
• Are there any structural issues? Check for loose joints, wobbly legs, or cracks in the wood.
• Is the upholstery ripped or stained? Reupholstering can be expensive, so factor that into the price if necessary.
• Can I see the furniture in natural light? True colors and imperfections are often masked by artificial lighting.
• What’s hiding underneath?: Don’t be afraid to flip furniture over and look underneath. You want to make sure the bottom isn’t falling out. This goes for cushions too. Lift those up and check for stains!

I found this vintage sofa in St. Louis and am having a friend go check it out before I commit to purchasing. Stay tuned!

Caution! Danger Zones to Avoid

• Water damage: Warping, bubbling, or peeling veneer are all signs of water damage, which is a major no-go.
• Upholstery with strong odors: Pet smells, cigarette smoke, or mildew are difficult (and sometimes impossible) to remove.
• Missing parts or hardware: Replacing missing parts or drawers can be a real hassle. Hardware is easier to replace and is usually fun to update.
• Poor pictures: this is a double edged sword. Sometimes bad pictures might be the sign of a technology challenged person that just wants to get rid of something and is in a rush. Other times it can be hiding imperfections. Once you’ve engaged in a conversation with the seller, don’t be afraid to ask for more photos if the original listing is unclear.

Real life example: the listing photo (left – blurry) vs photos I requested (look at that oil spot!!!). This was nearly a disaster for me.

Secondhand Vintage Furniture Takeaways

Remember: When buying vintage, perfect isn’t always the goal. Embrace the character of a well-worn piece, but always be mindful of structural integrity.

Bonus Tip: Haggling is totally acceptable (and sometimes expected) at flea markets, estate sales, and even some thrift stores. Don’t be afraid to politely negotiate a better price!

I hope this guide equips you to confidently navigate the world of secondhand furniture. Remember, the hunt is half the fun, so happy treasure hunting! And if you ever find a mind-blowing vintage score, don’t forget to tag me on social media – I love seeing your finds!

Planning a DIY project or a remodel? When it comes to interior painting these expert painting hacks, tips & tricks will help save you time, money, paint faster & get better results. Bookmark this page and thank me later!

Expert Painting Hack #1: Baseboards

If your baseboards don’t have quarter round, you should have a slight gap in between the baseboards and your floors. Rather than tape off your flooring, you can save time by sliding a piece of acetate paper in between the baseboards and floors. Slide it with the paint brush as you paint for a smooth, no mess finish!

Expert Painting Hack #2: Avoid Cleaning Your Paint Brush

Planning on applying more than one coat of paint? If so, you can save time with clean up by wrapping your paint brush with plastic wrap. Leave a little bit of paint on the brush to keep it moist. Wrap paint brush in plastic wrap. Wrap an additional piece of plastic wrap around the base where the handle meets the body. The goal is to keep air out, which will prevent the paint from hardening. You can leave brushes wrapped for 3-5 days.

Painting Tip #3: Stretch the Life of Your Paint Rollers

If you’re painting more than one coat of paint on the walls or ceiling, you’re likely using a paint roller. You should plan on waiting at least 12 hours for your paint to dry to avoid any peeling, but you don’t necessarily need to use a new roller for each coat. Instead, wrap your paint roller in a plastic bag and tie off the end to prevent air. I usually like to wrap mine in 2 bags just to be safe.

Painting Trick #4: Skip Washing the Paint Tray

Same as your paint brush and paint roller, if you’re painting more than one coat of paint and are using a roller brush and paint tray, you can avoid clean up here too. Take a garbage bag and place paint tray inside. Twist and tie the garbage bag to prevent air from getting inside.

Expert Painting Hack #5: Get Crisp Paint Lines

Are you painting two different colors? Try this hack to get the crisp paint lines. Apply frog tape as you normally would and press firmly using a putty knife to seal off. Now before you paint the new color, you’re going to paint the base color ON TOP of the frog tape. This is going to completely seal the tape. Allow to dry and then paint your new color on top. Remove painters tape while the top coat is still wet. For a longer tutorial you can see a full blog post on this method here.

Have you tried any of these painting hacks, tips & tricks? Are there any that I missed? Sound off in the comment section below!

Related: Are you cleaning your paint brushes properly?

For an interior designer, the thrill of discovering a unique antique piece adds layers of history and character to any space. But navigating the world of antiques can be overwhelming, especially for newcomers. I should know: I’ve had some fantastic wins (specifically with my dining chairs) and I’ve also walked out empty handed. Today, we’ll delve into my personal tips for successful antiquing adventures, ensuring you return home with treasures, not regrets.

1. Know Your Objective:

Before embarking on your quest, define your goals. Are you seeking a statement piece for your living room, or are you on the hunt for smaller accents? Having a clear vision will guide you towards the right shops and prevent impulse purchases.

2. Get Your Measurements Straight:

In the event you’re hunting for a specific piece, you may be confined to particular measurements. Keep a running list on the notes app in your phone for these items. For example, I was looking for chairs to match a newer table. I had the measurements saved and ready to go in my phone. When I found these chairs that caught my eye I was able to pull the trigger while traveling. I’m currently looking for an antique mirror for my dining room and I have the ideal height and length saved in my notes. Same for the vintage hallway runner I hope to score.

3. Educate Yourself:

Knowledge is power! Familiarize yourself with different periods, styles, and materials. Online resources like Kovels and auction house catalogs are valuable allies. Understanding the context of a piece not only enhances its value but also informs your restoration decisions. For example I knew my dining room antique bentwood chairs were worth far more than what they were listed for. Having this information on hand allowed me to cut to the chase with negotiating!

4. Inspect Like a Detective:

Don’t be afraid to get down and dirty! Inspect furniture for structural soundness, loose joints, and woodworm damage. Check for cracks in ceramics and tarnishing on metals. Be meticulous, as restoration costs can quickly outweigh the initial bargain.

5. Befriend the Dealer:

Vendors are a wealth of information. Engage them in conversation! Ask about the piece’s history, origin, and potential for restoration. Their insights can be invaluable, and a friendly rapport may even lead to a better deal.

A real life example of this was when I showed a local dealer a photo of the light I was searching for. She knew exactly what it was called and when it dated back to, which allowed me to zero in my online search more precisely. And now this beautiful skyscraper pendant is the star of the show in my kitchen!

6. Negotiate with Confidence:

Don’t be intimidated by haggling. Research fair market values beforehand and be prepared to negotiate. Remember, a polite and informed approach goes a long way. And in the end it’s okay to walk away if the item is overpriced.

7. Think Beyond the Obvious:

Embrace the potential for transformation! Look for pieces with good bones that can be repurposed. An old dresser can become a chic bathroom vanity, or vintage suitcases can be stacked to create a unique coffee table. Or another example below: repurposing a spittoon as a vase!

8. Embrace the Imperfections:

Don’t shy away from pieces with minor flaws or wear. These imperfections tell a story, adding character and warmth to your space. Remember, true beauty often lies in the subtle imperfections.

9. Document Your Journey:

Capture photos of pieces that catch your eye, even if you don’t purchase them immediately. Reflecting on your finds later can spark inspiration for hunting online on facebook marketplace, etsy or other trade sites. I found the below bronze horse statue on an antique trip and recently spotted it on eBay for more than half off!

Remember, antiquing is an adventure, not a sprint. Enjoy the process, trust your instincts, and don’t be afraid to experiment. With these tips and a little practice, you’ll be well on your way to unearthing unique treasures that will add character to your home and spark conversation.

Happy hunting!

Wallpaper is a powerful design tool, capable of injecting personality and drama into any space. After wallpapering four different spaces in my house (the dining room, back entry, powder room and toilet room) I have one main takeaway to share. Meticulous wall preparation is crucial. When done correctly, it will make your installation a breeze as well as ensure your wallpaper is adhered properly. Let’s delve into the key steps on how to prepare walls for wallpaper installation.

How to Prepare Walls for Wallpaper Installation

Step 1: Assess Your Walls

• Strip the Drama: Remove existing wallpaper, light switch covers, and outlet plates. Eliminate any potential adhesion disruptors.
• Spot the Imperfections: Become a wall detective, searching for bumps, cracks, and nail holes. Spackle and sand these imperfections for a smooth, even surface.
• Cleanliness is Paramount: Grab a large sponge and a mild cleaning solution (detergent or vinegar work well) to banish dust, dirt, and grime – anything that could jeopardize adhesion. Remember, if your walls are dirty, the paste won’t properly adhere.

Step 2: Paint & Prime – The Essential Duo

• Painting Assessment: Evaluate your existing paint as well as your wallpaper of choice. Peel and stick wallpaper generally adheres best to eggshell, satin or semi-gloss paint. Traditional pasted wallpaper does best with an eggshell sheen. If it’s sound, and the right sheen, you might be able to skip this step. However, old, peeling, or glossy paint will not work. Skip to the next bullet if this is you.
• Prime Time: This is your secret weapon! Primer seals the surface, prevents stains, and creates a uniform base for the wallpaper.
  • Even more importantly, consider the color of your chosen wallpaper. If it’s a darker pattern, you can get your primer tinted. This will help you avoid any visible break in the seams.
• Drying with Patience: Remember, haste makes waste. Follow the drying times for both paint and primer before applying wallpaper. For primer, you can begin installation after 24 hours. Any type of paint needs at least 30 days to cure. Another reason to consider the primer option!

Step 3: The Final Inspection Before Wallpaper Installation

• Texture Talk: Slight texture might not be a dealbreaker, but for a truly flawless look, consider using joint compound to smooth out unevenness. Sand lightly after application to achieve a baby-smooth finish.
• Patching Up: Stubborn cracks or holes? No worries! Apply spackling compound, let it dry, and sand smooth. Repeat if necessary until you achieve a flawless surface.

Wallpaper Prep Supply Checklist:

• Spackling compound
• putty knife
• Sandpaper (various grits)
• Cleaning solution
• Sponge
• Drop cloths
• Painter’s tape
• Paint & brushes/rollers
• Wallpaper-specific primer & roller

Remember, how to prepare walls for wallpaper can be a bit different for everyone as every wall is unique. Adapt these guidelines based on your chosen wallpaper’s specific instructions. With meticulous preparation and these expert tips, you’ll create the perfect foundation for a flawless wallpaper masterpiece. Happy decorating!

When I bought this house in 2018, it came with 11 ceiling fans. ELEVEN! No offense against ceiling fans, but that really seemed like such a wasted opportunity to me. You see, I view light fixtures as artwork. They are the true jewelry of a room and in most instances, the only thing adorning your 5^th wall. This is an amazing opportunity to dazzle!

Today I’m rounding up my top four spaces where I believe the light fixtures act as a true work of art. Lucky for both of us, I have plenty of spaces left to finish so this is simply the beginning of a very long love story.

The Bubble Chandelier

We may as well start things off with a bang. When I was designing my dining room, I knew I wanted it to feel traditional but not stuffy. Once I settled on a wallpaper, I set my sights on finding a chandelier that was a statement but one that wouldn’t necessarily overpower the wallpaper.

The Talia Chandelier by Julie Neil for Visual Comfort truly strikes that balance in a way I’m not sure another light fixture could. It is like a cloud floating in the middle of my dining room and elicits a WOW from any newcomer that walks in. A true work of art, I’m still head over heels in love with it.

Priscilla

Everyone, meet Priscilla. She is the only light fixture in my house that is so special, I felt she deserved to be properly named. I did not stumble across Priscilla, I actively hunted for her.

I had been visiting my local Salvage shop here in Nashville quite regularly. In between those visits I’d find myself scrolling through their Instagram page. One day my scroll completely stopped when I found this beautiful blue light fixture. I went into the shop and showed them the picture, hoping to learn more about the light. I learned this specific light fixture is called a skyscraper pendant, and is from the 1930’s. Unsurprising, they are quite rare to find (and are priced accordingly).

Determined to find my own, I began to actively search Google. After several weeks, I finally found a small shop in Phoenix that had several of these exact blue skyscraper pendants. The best part? They were priced for 75% less than what my store in Nashville had priced theirs. I called the shop owner and to his dismay and my delight, the pricing was old and had not been updated. He honored the pricing and the rest is history. Priscilla is the perfect addition to my little breakfast nook.

The Golden Leaf

After I decided the cozy tv room needed to be color drenched, I also knew the previous boho beaded chandelier had to go (we all make mistakes, okay???). With the new dark paint as a backdrop, I felt this would be the perfect opportunity for something brass. It would pop against the dark ceiling but also compliment the other brass pieces in the space (the Primrose Mirror, Brass art lamp, etc).

Enter this beautiful golden leaf chandelier. It is eye catching but not dominant, and with 8 lights gives off plenty of brightness for the dark space. Who could ever want a ceiling fan in place of this beautiful light fixture?!

The Crown Jewel

Last but certainly not least is my little crown jewel, located in the living room. I purchased this light fixture for my previous house, and it was one of the things I insisted was coming with me. And it will continue to move with me shall I ever move again.

It really looks like royalty to me, with both its shape and it’s jewels throughout. I think this piece strikes the perfect soft balance for the overall living room aesthetic and couldn’t imagine anything else that could be more perfect in this space.

Light Fixtures as Artwork

Do you see what I see now? The ceiling is truly a canvas to use light fixtures as artwork. Yes, there are places such as bathrooms and kitchens where task lighting is essential, but in the majority of your spaces I hope you can see this as an opportunity to elevate your design. Good design does just that: it’s the balance between beauty and function. You can in fact have your cake and eat it too!  

Happy Valentine’s Day! Who doesn’t love an excuse for a sweet treat?! Whether you’re celebrating as a couple, with your best gal pals or are declaring it a party of 1, these mini molten red velvet cakes are the perfect way to be a little festive. Single servings, easy to make and beyond impressive to look at, these cuties only take 20 minutes to bake. Get ready to impress with this easy yet decadent recipe!

Serves: 4 | Prep Time: 2 hours | Bake Time: 20 minutes

Ingredients

Cakes

• 2 oz semisweet baking chocolate
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 1 cup flour
• 1 1/2 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa, plus more for ramekins
• 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 tablespoon powdered sugar
• 1/2 cup salted butter, melted
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 6 tablespoons buttermilk
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1/2 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
• 1 large egg yolk
• 1 1/2 teaspoon red liquid food coloring

Cream Cheese Whipped Cream

• 1 cup powdered sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 ounces cream cheese, softened

Additional Notes:

• You will need four 8oz oven safe ramekins. (I like these ones)
• The chocolate center will need 2 hours to chill & firm up. You can make this in advance if need be.

Directions

Prepare the Chocolate Center

• Chop 2oz of semisweet bakers chocolate and place in microwave safe bowl
• Add ¼ Cup of heavy cream
• Microwave on High for 30 seconds
• Whisk until blended and smooth
• Let stand for 1 minute
• Immediate cover with seran wrap and place in fridge
• Chocolate will need a minimum of 2 hours to firm, but can be stored for up to 48 hours in advance if necessary.

Prepare the Mini Molten Red Velvet Cakes

• Preheat oven to 400°F
  • Using butter, lightly grease four 8-ounce oven safe ramekins. Dust with a pinch of unsweetened cocoa then tap out excess.
  • Combine wet ingredients and whisk:
    • ½ Cup of Salted Butter
    • ½ Cup granulated sugar
    • 6 Tablespoons of Buttermilk
    • 1 egg Yolk
    • ½ teaspoon vanilla
    • ½ teaspoon apple cider vinegar
    • 1 ½ teaspoons red food dye
  • Combine dry ingredients and whisk:
    • 1 Cup flour
    • 1 ½ teaspoons baking cocoa
    • ¼ teaspoon baking soda
    • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • Combine wet and dry ingredients and whisk together. Divide equally across the four ramekins.
  • Divide chilled chocolate into four equal sections, roll into balls and gently drop in the center of each batter filled ramekin. (as the cakes cook the chocolate will sink so just gently tap into the center for now)
  • Place ramekins on a baking sheet and bake in preheated oven for 18 minutes. (cakes will be springy in the center when fully cooked)

Left: Chocolate Balls Placed in cake batter | Right: Chocolate balls start to drop as cakes bake

Prepare the Cream Cheese Frosting

• Mix the following ingredients:
  • 2oz softened cream cheese,2 Tablespoons unsalted butter½ teaspoon vanilla
• Add 1 Cup of powdered sugar to mixture and beat with an electric mixer on medium-high speed until blended (roughly 1 minute)

Plate the Mini Molten Red Velvet Cakes

• Immediately run a rubber spatula or thin knife around the ramekin edges to loosen cakes
  • Invert each red velvet cake onto a serving plate
  • Dust cakes with a sprinkle of powdered sugar
  • Top each cake with Cream Cheese topping
  • Serve immediately

Other Recipes:

Homemade Cinnamon Rolls with Cream Cheese Frosting

Healthy Homemade Chili

For me, the journey of transforming my house truly started with a paint brush. While I’ve been painting for decades at this point, it wasn’t until recently that I decided to paint the trim between the cozy room and back entry two different contrasting colors. With that decision, came learning how to get razor-sharp crisp paint lines. While I was a bit intimidated at first, I’m here to share it’s quite easy! I’m excited to share my tips with you today – let’s get to it.

Supplies You’ll Need

• Premium frog tape: Its enhanced adhesive forms an impenetrable barrier, ensuring zero paint bleed.
• Paint brushes: The exact type will depend on what you’re painting but you can’t go wrong with an angled brush. I like this one!
• Flawless roller: If you’re painting walls two different colors then you’ll need this. For trim you can disregard.
• High-quality paints: see my tips for choosing paint sheens in this post if you need help.
• Drop cloths

Step 1: Prep the Space

Before you do anything, you need to properly clean the area that’s going to be painted. If you don’t, your tape won’t adhere properly and you’ll have a mess on your hands. Use dish soap and warm water to wipe down the surface. Allow time to dry. Place your drop cloths around the work area.

Step 2: Mapping Out Perfection (Optional)

For stripes, intricate patterns, or unwavering straight lines, employ a level and pencil to lightly mark your desired design. Remember, these markings are temporary guides.

Step 3: Tape it Off

Apply your frog tape along your markings or directly on the surface. Press firmly, especially at edges and corners. In fact, I like to run a putty knife along the tape to ensure it’s sealed.

Step 4: Sealing the Deal

Here’s the Pro tip you’ve been waiting for. Before introducing the contrasting color, paint a thin layer of the basecoat over the exposed frog tape edge. This seals microscopic gaps and prevents paint migration. Allow for complete drying.

Step 5: Painting with Precision

Now, the moment you’ve awaited! Utilizing your brushes or roller, apply the contrasting color, ensuring it reaches and slightly overlaps the frog tape’s edge. Avoid overloading tools, as excess paint can lead to unwanted bleeding. Remember, thin coats applied in layers yield the most flawless finish.

Step 6: Unveiling Crisp Paint Lines

With wet paint, meticulously peel the frog tape back at a 45-degree angle. This maneuver guarantees a clean, crisp separation. It should be perfectly crisp! However should minor imperfections arise, employ a small brush dipped in the basecoat for wet-paint touch-ups.

If you were following along with my 2024 project list, you’ll remember seeing the back entry on the short list. This is a tinier space, but I definitely underestimated its significance last year when I was updating the cozy tv room. A true bridge between the dark moody den and the bright white kitchen, this space was dying for some attention. And today that’s just what it’s going to get as I share the back entry reveal with you!

The plan

Once I figured out that what was bothering me about the space was the starkness from light to dark, I knew the answer was finding the perfect wallpaper. I needed this space to marry the light kitchen (plus the renovation of the kitchen I haven’t designed yet!) with the dark moody tv room. There was no question that once I found Vinnie Blue by Sandberg, that it was the answer.

I put together a mood board just to be sure, and added in the fun bells and whistles like the brass finishes and the trim color, which really pulled everything together. I was so confident in my design that I didn’t even order wallpaper samples, I just placed the order! I would not advise anyone to do this by the way…it is truly a roll of the dice.

The prep

Although this was a small space, there was a lot of prep work involved. Since the walls were a light cream, and I was using a dark wallpaper, it behooved me to prime the walls with a dark primer. This would ensure no seams would show in the event things weren’t 100% perfect.  And since I’m a novice installer I felt it was a safe bet they would not be perfect.

In addition to the primer, this was also the time to pain the trim. Since I was wallpapering, things didn’t need to be perfect where the trim met the wall, which meant a little less prep work. I opted to paint the baseboards, ceiling, back door and transoms Accessible Beige by Sherwin-Williams in a Semi-Gloss finish. It’s the perfect color with the lighter colors in the wallpaper and I think will blend seamlessly into the new TBD kitchen design.

The installation

Once I was done with the paint it was time to wallpaper! This was my fourth time wallpapering and in hindsight I can say it was the best thus far. The quality of this paper by Sandberg was above and beyond, which really makes all the difference. It was heavy enough not to tear while I was placing it, but also not overly stiff and was easy to manipulate as needed.

The wallpaper installation itself took about 7 hours from start to finish. I used two rolls for this project with very little scraps to spare. There was certainly a moment when I thought I was going to run out of wallpaper but luckily I was able to make it work with what I had!

Finishing touches included a new brass switch plate cover and installing the cutest little brass bumble bee door knocker on the inside of my back door. Since the door itself is so plain, I thought this would be a fun way to jazz it up.

Back Entry Reveal

I’m absolutely in love with how the back entry turned out! Now when I sit in the kitchen or the cozy room and look towards this area, it is so pleasing to look at. My eyes want to stay on it, rather than move away from it.

It is still a bit surprising to me the impact such a small space can have on the overall flow of a home, but I agree that it’s all about details. The thoughtful details of this space and how it truly connects the rooms around it through bridging colors gives a more finished feeling to my downstairs floor plan. I hope you love it just as much as I do!

Sources:

• Wallpaper: Vinnie Blue by Sandberg
• Brass 3 Toggle Light Switch Cover
• Brass Bumble Bee door knocker
• CLJ x Loloi Runner Rug in 2’x5′ size

Lately we’ve been covering a lot of ground in our painting series, and have covered a wide range of topics. From the best painting supplies, to how to choose the right type of paint, and how to paint walls, ceilings and trim. Before we go any further, I thought we should quickly touch on the right way to clean your paint supplies, as well as how to properly store them. Taking these little steps can help your paint supplies last a lifetime and truly make them a one-time investment.

If you’re like me, you probably think this is a very straightforward task and why is there even a blog post about this. I know some of you are nodding. Well not so fast…when it comes time to clean up after your paint project, there’s a right way and a wrong way to clean your paint brushes (and I bet you never knew this). Lets quickly dive into the do’s and don’ts of properly cleaning and storing your paint supplies

It’s all about timing

If you’re able to clean-up immediately following your paint job, it will be much easier to remove the paint from your supplies, as you won’t allow it the chance to harden. In the event you cannot clean-up right away, you can wrap the brush with plastic saranwrap, and you can place the paint roller and tray in a garbage bag. This will prevent air from hardening the paint, and allow you more time to properly clean your tools.

Assuming you’re able to clean your supplies following the job…

Paint brushes:

Most paint brushes can be cleaned with water alone. The most important thing to note is to NOT turn your paint brushes upside down and run water through them. The paint brushes have spacers at the base, and allowing water to penetrate these will loosen the spacers and allow the bristles to fall out over time. Always keep your bristles pointed towards the bottom of the sink and run the water from top to bottom of the brush.

How to Clean Your Paint Brushes:

1. Remove excess paint with a paper towel first to help expedite the cleaning
2. Run warm water from the top of the brush to the bottom. Gently massage with your hand, ensuring your getting the front, back and both sides of the brush.
3. Use a wire paint comb to further loosen any stubborn paint from the brush. Gently brush from top to bottom as needed as you run water over both the brush and the comb.

How to Store Paint Brushes:

1. Pat paint brush dry with a paper towel or microfiber cloth
2. Place paint brush in it’s jacket, which will help maintain the shape of the brush
3. Always store upright (again, preventing moisture from impacting the spacers)

How To Clean Paint Trays, Paint Cups & Rollers:

Paint tray, paint cups and roller clean-up is generally quite simple.

1. A garden hose will easily do the job in the warmer months of the year.
2. If you’re painting in an area without access to a garden hose, you can use warm water and dish soap to clean both tools.

How to Clean Drop cloths:

1. Before storing a canvas or plastic drop cloth, wait for paint drips and splotches to completely dry.
2. If necessary, canvas cloths can be machine washed in cold water and then air dried before storing.

Conclusion

That’s all there is to it! By slowing down and taking a little bit more time to clean and store your paint supplies the right way, they’ll be a one-time investment and will last you a lifetime. Happy painting!

Related Posts

The best paint supplies

How to paint a wall

How to paint ceilings

How to paint trim

Choosing the right type of paint for your project

One of the best designs a primary bathroom can have is a separate toilet room and I’m lucky enough to have inherited one. While I immediately went to work renovating the primary bathroom within the first month of closing on the house, I’ll admit that the toilet room was an afterthought. Now with a few years behind me, I’m excited to revisit this space and add some personality to what is essentially a powder room design.

Phase 1: the Band-Aide

The renovation brought the same classic white and black floor tile into this space, but not much else. After seeing the huge impact wallpaper can have in a small space (see the powder room flip) I knew I wanted to bring some wallpaper into this space.

It looks so sad doesn’t it?! You should have seen it before the renovation. It was extra sad!

Phase 2: Stripes for Days

Farrow & Ball’s block print stripe was the perfect choice, as it fit within the existing classic design of the overall space, but added some personality with the stripes and contrasted in a fun way with the checker floor tile. I used a dark grey grout on my floors and this wallpaper has a metallic silver stripe in it – they play off each other in such a fun way!

I had this wallpaper installed almost a year to the date, and while I absolutely love it, the space was still not feeling finished. Sounds like a job for some paint, doesn’t it? The cozy tv room is the first time I’ve painted my trim something other than white, and I think it’s safe to say I’m a bit addicted at this point. This space was begging for some colored trim and I had to try my hand at a classic black.

Phase 3: Painting It Black

Initially I was planning to paint the baseboards, door and ceiling, but after starting with the baseboards I didn’t think it was necessary to change the ceiling. I kind of want the eye to stop with the wallpaper and bounce around the trim and tile.

After two coats on the baseboards and three coats on the door, I couldn’t be happier with these changes. I swapped out the boring white switch plate for a stainless steel option and upgraded the toilet paper holder to this fantastic lift arm style from Delta. I think it’s safe to say this space finally feels finished. What do you think?!

Sources:

• Black Soft Close Toilet Seat
• Simple Human Plunger
• Simple Human Toilet Brush
• Delta Pivoting Toilet Paper Holder
• Stainless Steel Light Switch Plate Cover

I’ll be the first one to admit it: styling the perfect bookshelf is a lot harder than it looks. Flip through any magazine or take a scroll through Instagram, and the shelfies will look almost effortlessly designed. I can promise you that is not the case whatsoever and each shelf you aspire to create was meticulously planned.

After some trial and error over the past couple years (especially in the cozy tv room), I’ve found implementing a handful of design rules can be the saving grace for styling the perfect bookshelf. Follow along below as I share my design learnings.

Phase 1: Develop a plan

A perfectly styled bookshelf requires a little upfront planning. Two of the most important things to think about are your color palette and the style of the room the bookshelf is in.

Color palette: When deciding on a color palette, you want to take inventory of the rest of the room and tie in colors from your existing decor to keep a cohesive flow. If you want to play it safe, plan to use a white as your base color, one metal finish, one wood finish and 1-2 accent colors.

Style: Similar rule of them when considering the style of the bookshelf. If your living room leans more traditional, then your shelf décor should have traditional elements rather than sleek ultra modern pieces.

As an example you can see my living room, which is where one of my bookshelves lives (on the opposite wall). This is a traditional space, but has modern elements such as the couch, chair, table and lamp. My primary accent color is a rust / orange / brass, so I’ll look to that color family first when thinking about decorative accents for my bookshelf.

Bookshelf Décor

Whether you’re shopping your house, a thrift store or online, you’ll stay organized and on track by keeping the bulk of your items to a handful of categories.

• Books: the most obvious item on the list is books! As you gather books, consider various sizes. We’ll be stacking these, standing these and more later on. If you’re able to stick to hardcover books that will make things easier (more on that below).
• Picture frames: I love a larger picture frame with a wide matte. Consider frames of various sizes and options for both leaning against the back of the shelf as well as standing. If you’re able to add black and white photos to the frames, this will help keep things cohesive in your design.
• Vases: vases are a great way to add some variety into your shelves. With their various finishes you can implement glass, metal, and ceramic, bringing both texture and color into your shelf design.
• Plants: Whether they’re real or artificial, adding some plants onto your bookshelves will truly bring them to life. Consider how much natural sunlight your shelf gets and plan accordingly.
• Sculptural items: plan to add a couple fun sculptural items into the mix. This could be a bust (traditional style), marble links (modern), coral (coastal), etc. As you can see, let the style of your room and shelves guide these decisions to keep things cohesive.  
• Candles: candles are great fillers and can add some varying height to your shelves. Depending on the distance between shelves this may be more of a decorative decision and not necessarily a candle that you’ll be lighting regularly.
• Decorative boxes: decorative boxes are wonderful because they can be stacked which allows us to create some height variation. They can also provide an opportunity to bring different color and texture into the space.

Sources:

1. Brass Easel Picture Frame
2. Decorative Fashion Books
3. Marble Bookends
4. Brass Clawfoot Tray
5. Threshold Large Matte Picture Frame
6. Marble Decorative Box
7. Voluspa 3 Wick Candle
8. Antique Brass Mantel Clock

Sources:

1. Black & gold gallery fame by Threshold
2. Marble Tray
3. Modern Brass Bookends
4. Decorative Wooden Knot
5. Faux Stackable Books
6. Modern Vase by Leanne Ford
7. Chevron Decorative Box

Styling the Bookshelves

Once you have a handful of items gathered, it’s time to style your bookshelves! Be patient and have fun. You’re going to move things around and that’s okay. Below are some key design rules to help you style your perfect bookshelf.

 Start Big

Place your largest item(s) first and work backwards from there. This can be a large picture frame, or sculptural item. This is going to ground the shelves and we’ll work around them in the next steps.

The triangle method

Create triangles across your shelves using similar items. This method guides the viewers eye across the shelves and creates cohesiveness without us even realizing it. Look for triangles amongst your like items and shift them around if they’re not achieving a triangle.

Be Odd

A standard in all design is to cluster items in odds, as it’s more aesthetically pleasing. Place things in groups of three’s or five’s. We’re also going to use the triangle method above to create a variation in height while we’re doing this. Too many big items together look too uniform and too many small items can look cluttered.

Mix textures and colors

Too much of the same looks unnatural, while mixed pairings create more visual interest for the eye. Specifically when you’re adding books onto your shelves, consider removing the jackets of your hardcover books. This will allow for a more cohesive look vs having all the colors of the rainbow. Outside of books, aim to pair brass alongside a warm wood. If you’re working on a white background, add something black to create some contrast.

Your Perfect Bookshelf

A perfectly styled bookshelf is in the eye of the beholder and for many of us, happens over time. Don’t be afraid to step away for a moment and then come back to your bookshelf and rearrange items. As you add new books to your collection, or discover some new vintage treasures, your bookshelf may need to shift and that’s okay. These “rules” are not rules at all and are truly meant as a wireframe to help you plan and design your perfect space. Happy styling!

Cold nights call for warm soups, and this homemade healthy chili recipe is one of my favorite soups to make. It’s a one pot meal with clean ingredients and provides ample leftovers. Grab your favorite pot and get ready to have some cozy soup nights.

Healthy Chili Recipe Ingredients:

• 1 lb lean ground beef
• 1 yellow onion diced
• 1 red bell pepper diced
• 1 Tablespoon minced garlic
• 1 teaspoon mustard powder
• 1 teaspoon paprika
• 1 teaspoon cumin
• 1 teaspoon chili powder
• 1 teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon pepper
• 3 bay leaves
• 4 cans diced tomatoes
• 1 can black beans
• 2-3 cups beef broth

Sources: Serving Bowls

Cooking Instructions

Brown the Beef

Using a cast iron pot, cook your ground beef on medium heat until browned. Typically 4-5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the beef from the pot and set aside in a separate pan.

Sauté

You’ll have leftover beef fat in the pot and we’ll use this to sauté our vegetables. Add diced onion, diced red bell pepper, garlic, salt, pepper, mustard powder, cumin, paprika and chili powder to the pot. Continue stirring until onions are translucent (typically 3-4 minutes).

Assemble Soup

Add cooked ground beef to the pot of vegetables and spices and stir together. Mix in canned tomatoes, beef broth and bay leaves. Turn heat to high and bring to a boil. Once soup begins to boil, turn heat to low and simmer for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.

After 45 minutes, add in the can of black beans without draining. Stir thoroughly and continue to cook for an additional 15 minutes.

Garnish & Serve

Remove bay leaves from the pot and your healthy chili is ready to serve! Garnishes for this dish are optional and can quickly turn the recipe a bit unhealthy. If you want to sprinkle in some additional flavor you can never go wrong with some shredded sharp cheddar cheese or a dollop of sour cream. Serve warm and enjoy!

Sources: Serving Bowls | Sage Green Linen Napkins

Other Recipes

Allison’s Homemade Cinnamon Rolls

Today we’re taking a jaunt down memory lane, as I share the one of the first things I decided to do after buying this house: a primary bathroom renovation. There’s nothing quite like biting off more than you can chew, and I can say I confidently achieved that by renovating the primary bathroom with little to no design experience. What was I thinking, you might ask?

The Before

I wish I had more “before” photos, but I’ll do my best to fill in any gaps from the pictures I do have. The existing primary bathroom was definitely original to the house, and had not been updated (nor cleaned) since 1989. The square purple tiles in the shower and garden jacuzzi had dark grout that was not by design.

The vanity was so low I was bent over perpendicular to brush my teeth. And the shower was so narrow it was impossible to shave my legs without getting my hair wet. The jacuzzi tub also let out a fun mildew smell when you turned it on (and the water turned to brown).

The design plans

It was not a question. This space needed updated immediately. While I certainly could have made do with redesigning the space as is, I decided to take this renovation a step further by really blowing it out (literally).

The original bathroom dimensions measured 10 feet wide by 9.5 ft deep. However, as luck would have it, the primary bedroom had a long narrow closet which backed up directly to the existing bathroom. It also had a spare room on the other side of it.

Knowing this, I decided to knock down the wall in between the bathroom and original closet and create one large space for the bathroom. This would allow me to get more creative with the overall design and not be restricted on space. By knocking down the closet wall, the primary bathroom would now be 10 ft wide by 14.5 feet deep.

The color palette

One thing I’m so thankful for, is my decision to stick to a classic bathroom color palette. I went with a traditional black and white bathroom schematic, choosing a simple black and white checkered tile with dark grout. A classic white subway tile would line the shower, and brass fixtures would add in pops of color throughout the space.

The shower

 The biggest pain point in the original bathroom was how narrow the shower was. With my new added space, I designed a large walk in shower that is 6 ft wide by 5 ft deep. You can quite literally have a dance party in it, and then take a rest on the built in bench afterwards.

A beautiful glass door with a black grid adds a pop of interest to the shower space and I splurged on a complete shower system by Delta with a wand and jets. It’s in a beautiful brushed brass finish and I do not regret the splurge one bit.

The vanity

The master bathroom already had a double vanity in place and since I liked this feature, I didn’t feel the need to rearrange the room. I kept the vanity where it was originally located but swapped out the original for a new 72″ black vanity (that’s the proper height) and updated the hardware to brass pulls. A quartz countertop was the perfect stone choice for a high traffic area like a bathroom vanity and matching brass fixtures from Delta complimented the shower system directly behind the vanity.

Sources: Vanity | Mirrors | Faucets | Towel Rings | Brass Knobs | Brass Trash Basket | Floor Tile

To break up the design, I found these beautiful sconces at Anthropologie which I felt complimented the classic style of the room and I added black round mirrors above each sink. Having lived with these for several years, I’m ready to swap these out for a more rectangular mirror that works better for the space. I was on a tight budget when I did renovated this bathroom and these mirrors have worked hard for the dollars!

The tub

I’ve always wanted a clawfoot tub! This was a big part of the design and I think it fits so beautifully into the classic style of the space. I do have a handful of regrets in hindsight…

I wish I would have chosen a tub that had white feet vs the oil rubbed bronze. While these almost look black, they are not black. So as part of a mini-refresh on this space I’ll be exploring ways I could potentially paint these a lacquered white, or even a brass.

Additionally, I wish I would’ve dared to mix metals in this space and the clawfoot tub would have been the perfect opportunity. While it’s not something I currently have planned to swap out, it’s something I’m going to learn from for the future.

Storage

The original master bathroom had the tiniest linen closet behind the entry door, so when I knocked down the original shower, I gave up that space. With the extra space adjacent to the shower, I was able to perfectly fit a gorgeous armoire from Anthropologie into this nook. This built in houses bed linens, towels, toilet paper and fun things like bath bubbles and salts.

Sources: Floor Tile | Towel Hooks | Glass Shower Door | Subway Tile | Delta Shower System | Storage Cabinet

Toilet Room

Where’s the toilet? One of the blessings of this space was having an existing toilet room! I think this is such a wonderful feature for any bathroom and am so thankful this space already had this baked in. Since the initial renovation I’ve tried to add a little more personality into the space and wallpapering the toilet room has been one of the best updates thus far.

Sources: Floor Tile | Wallpaper | Toilet Paper Holder

I’m going to take it one step further in the coming weeks and paint the trim, ceiling and door of the toilet room a pretty black color matched to the wallpaper. I think it will really pop and tie the wallpaper and tile floor together in a beautiful way. After painting the trim in the powder room and cozy room last year, I can’t stop thinking about more places to incorporate non-white trim and am so excited to try my hand with black.

Full Circle

Are there things I would do differently if I had the chance to design this space all over again? Absolutely. But am I incredibly proud of what I designed in my head and brought to life? 100%.

Sources: Floor Tile | Vanity | Brass Knobs | Delta Faucets | Towel Rings | Trash Basket | Round Mirrors | Striped Wallpaper

Stay tuned for some little updates to this space throughout the year, as well as some follow-up thoughts on what I’d do differently the second time around.

Sources

4″ x 6″ Subway Tile

Black and white floor tile

72″ Black Vanity

Light Sconces (sold out)

Round 24″ Black Vanity Mirrors

Delta Vanity Faucets

Brushed Brass Vanity Knobs

Delta Linden Towel Rings

Delta Cassidy Towel Hooks

Shower Door

Shower Faucet System

Anthropologie Black Storage Cabinet

Striped Wallpaper

Delta Pivoting Toilet Paper Holder

Brass Trash Basket

It’s funny how cyclical life can be sometimes. Every year, I get so excited about the holidays for many reasons, but deep down I think I’m welcoming a break from renovating and DIY-ing. I’ve always made myself stop house projects to enjoy the holidays with family, savor the holiday décor and get out of the house. At the same time, each year around mid-December I start dreaming up the following year’s project list. This year was a little bit different, because the 2024 project list daydreaming started at the beginning of December.

There is so much I want to accomplish this year, but I had to reel myself back a bit and try to make this as realistic as possible. In no particular order, here’s my condensed 2024 project list.

Dining Room Molding

The dining room has seen a lot of change over the past year and we’re almost complete at this point. As I was setting the space for Thanksgiving this past year, I couldn’t help but think about how traditional the space is and how it’s really  missing molding below the chair rail.

Molding is on my list for at least two additional projects this year, so I plan on diving into some tutorials and getting familiar with power tools. I’ll likely start my molding journey with the dining room because it’s a smaller amount of molding that will need cut. Stay tuned for more on this space!

Laundry Room

Okay, everyone has this one room and this one is mine. The laundry room is the catch all space. The unsightly room that just can’t seem stay organized no matter how hard I try. I need to start moodboarding color schemes for this space but my initial plans include adding a chair rail and wainscoating to the bottom 2/3 of the space, and then wallpaper on the top 1/3.

I recently laid these floorpops just to make the space a little less of an eyesore when the door is open, and while I’m happy with them, I’m daydreaming about tile for this space. Learning how to tile has been on my list and I’m fantasizing about a classic penny tile with a fun border.

Back Entry Way

Last year, I color drenched the cozy tv room and ever since then, I’ve been questioning my decision on where I stopped the color around the doorway casing. I think I should have gone in a little bit deeper.

Well, wandering minds can’t be helped. I’m officially going to carry the color into this back hallway trim, and then wallpaper the space. We’ll add a new light, paint the ceiling and this existing rug I purchased last year will still be perfect. I’m still a TBD on whether or not I’ll paint the back door the same trim color, or if I’ll attempt to strip it down to it’s natural wood finish.

My Office

Similar to so many, back in 2020 I officially converted an upstairs extra bedroom into an office space for myself. Since then, there’s no going back as I love being able to separate work from my other living spaces. However with the new flooring, I want something a bit more elevated and refined vs the peel and stick banana leaf wallpaper I hung.

I plan to add wallpaper to all four walls, paint the trim / doors / ceiling an actual color, swap out the light fixture and add in a new rug. I’m truly so excited to convert this space and feel more inspired while I’m doing work at home.

Primary Bedroom

Similar to a lot of spaces in my house, the primary bedroom has gotten several band-aides since I bought the house nearly six years ago, however it’s time for a full makeover. I plan on fully color drenching this space, adding in new blackout curtains, updating the bedding, switching out the nightstands and adding a cozy rug. Once I fully moodboard everything out, we’ll see if the pink fringe chandelier will still work for the new space.

Exterior

This has been bugging me for years. At one point in time, it must have been trendy to match your trim color to the color of your brick mortar. I’m itching to update the exterior trim color and am leaning towards a dark charcoal grey.

I’ll be photoshopping this in the coming months and would love to have this completed in the first half of the year. For better or worse, the exterior work is going to cause a domino effect of work, as there’s some wood rot along some of the casing and I’ll likely need new gutters. And if you subscribe to my monthly newsletter, you’re already aware about the drama with the garage door. So I’ll be getting a new one of those as well this year. We may as well landscape while we’re at it, right?!

The Kitchen

Am I saving the best for last? Maybe. The previous owners had partially updated the kitchen by adding granite counter tops and painting the existing cabinets. Since I’ve moved in, I’ve scraped the popcorn ceilings, updated the cooktop, replaced the refrigerator and dishwasher, and added new hardware to the cabinets.

As much as I had hoped that would get us to a good place with this kitchen, we’re just not there. After the new hardwood flooring installation, and all the updates to the surrounding spaces like the cozy tv room, dining room and powder room, the kitchen needs to catch up to the rest of the house.

I’ve updated the little breakfast nook with a new table, some antique chairs and a beautiful antique art-deco light fixture. This tiny space that feels completed is giving me just enough of a tease that I’m finally ready to attack the larger portion of the room.

Since the kitchen is truly the heart of the home, I’m not taking this design lightly. Expect to see more in the coming months as I work through a few final big decisions I’m struggling with. In the short term, expect to see some progress on the back entry way to give me a little momentum as I work up to these bigger areas.

As we turn the page to 2024, I’m sharing my predictions for the top home decor trends and interior design styles we should expect to see more and more of. These themes will spill into all facets of home, from decorating inspiration to kitchen and bathroom designs.

Based on what I’ve observed coming out of the 2024 fashion previews, as well as simply paying attention to common themes I’m noticing across social media, I feel confident sharing these predictions for the coming year. And let me just say, I’m not mad about any of them! In fact, I feel this just might be my year, as many of these truly resonate with my own style. Without further ado, lets get to it!

Prediction #1: Color

Image Source: Benjamin Moore

When I say color, I mean COLOR. Get ready for bold and rich hues of blues, reds, greens and yellows. Green made a big splash last year, and I think we’ll continue to see it stick around, but get ready to see more reds. Specifically, I’ve been noticing an earthy, brown hue of red popping up more and more. It’s a bold choice, but when done correctly it’s high impact.

Prediction #2: The return of Chrome & Nickel

Brass fixtures have been reigning supreme over the past several years, and while brass certainly isn’t going anywhere, you should expect to see more and more silver tones coming into the fold this season. We’re seeing this in fashion and I think it’s time for the cycle of home finishes to start to slightly shift. Expect to see more and more mixed metals as part of many interior designs.

Prediction #3: EXTRA!

The days of minimalism and white boxes for rooms is gone. Get ready to swing hard in the other direction with a new trend of maximalism. Think layered textures, bold colors and a truly collected space.

Prediction #4: High Gloss

High gloss trim is here to stay

We’re seeing the return of patent leather in fashion and I expect to see this trend translate into home design through high gloss finishes. This could be with high gloss paint or even more mirrored backsplashes. Expect to see some shine in 2024!

Prediction #5: Pattern

Pattern has made its way back into the fold via the comeback of wallpaper of the past few years (more on that below) but expect to see more and more of it. Patterned drapes and even pattern coming back on furniture. I anticipate seeing pattern on pattern as well, whether a patterned sofa in a wallpapered room or a juxtaposition of geometric prints against floral designs. While this could leave some of us that lived through the late 80’s and 90’s a little shook, I encourage you to get excited. I think there is a tasteful way to do this and I’m excited to see how this trend emerges with a new spin!

Prediction #6: Wallpaper to the max!

Image Source: Rebel Walls

Spilling off the theme of pattern, wallpaper is here to stay. We’ve seen it making a slow comeback over the past few years leading as a solution to add texture into rooms and then finally incorporating pattern. Get ready to see it make a big splash this year, and watch people get bolder with it. I’ve been seeing more and more wallpaper on the ceilings and its been quite fun.

Prediction #7: More natural woodwork

Image Source: Zillow

This past year we started to see the return of wood cabinetry and I expect that trend to continue into 2024. Along the overall theme of rich colors, I think we’ll start to see some rich and warm wood tones come back into the fold via cabinetry, furniture and even trim.

Prediction #8: Secondhand + upcycling

My blue hutch above was sourced from facebook marketplace

This should come as no surprise but expect to see more and more people embracing giving new life to old items. Whether sourced through Facebook marketplace, estate sales or thrift stores, the trend to shop used vs buy new is here to stay.

Prediction #9: Less Trends

How exciting is this one? I hope I’m right about this. I think we’ll start to see more of an “anything goes” mentality to design, as long as it’s in good taste.

Prediction #10: The re-invention of Traditional

Photo of my traditional dining room set for Thanksgiving

I’ve seen more and more traditional design over the past year and I believe that is here to stay, but with a little twist. Expect to see a reimagination of traditional design this year, and unique spins on what tradition means to each person.

In Conclusion: 2024 Home Decor and Design Trend Predictions

While these are my personal predictions for the year, I truly hope I’m right about all of them! I am ready to see more styling, textures, colors and pattern across interior design, and truly believe a home is collected not decorated. Your home is a representation of you, and I don’t know anyone who is a plain white box.

What do you think about these design predictions? Is there anything you would add? Take away? What are you most excited about? 

These homemade cinnamon rolls are soft, fluffy and are topped with a gooey cream cheese icing. They rival a Cinnabon and for good reason: I spent months tweaking and perfecting the recipe. Through some trial and error, I’m happy to share the final recipe with you today, as well as some tips and tricks that will help ensure they turn out perfect.

Ingredients:

For the dough:

1 packet (1 Tablespoon) active yeast

1 teaspoon sugar

1 cup whole milk (heated to 110 degrees F)

½ cup sugar

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 eggs (room temperature)

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon salt

4 ½ cups bread flour

For the filling:

½ cup brown sugar

½ cup sugar

2.5 Tablespoons cinnamon

1 Tablespoon regular white flour

4 Tablespoons unsalted butter (melted)

For the frosting:

2 oz cream cheese

2 Tablespoons unsalted butter

1 Cup powdered sugar

½ teaspoon vanilla

Some tips from the test kitchen:

Before we get started, I want to share some tips that I’ve uncovered through trial and error. I’ll preface by saying this is very much a science project, so if it’s listed a certain way, I encourage you to follow the instructions and not make substitutions.

Tip 1: Bread Flour

I initially tried this recipe with regular flour and I will say, bread flour makes all the difference. It makes the rolls less dense, and gives them that fluffy and moist texture that we all desire. Spring for the bread flour.

Tip 2: temperature matters

Listed above in the ingredient sections are two important notes about the temperature of two ingredients. Eggs: make sure these are room temperature. Milk: heat this in the microwave for a minute or until it reaches 110 degrees F. This will make for a bettering proofing process with the yeast.

Tip 3: the filling

We’ll get to this in the instructions below, but I want to call out two important items when it comes to your cinnamon roll filling.

1. Including 1 Tablespoon of flour in this mixture will help it bond with the rolls rather than fall to the bottom of the pan.
2. Brush your butter onto the dough. While you can certainly mix the butter into the overall filling mixture, I find that brushing it directly onto the dough helps everything stick. It’s like a primer for your dough!

Instructions:

Proofing Yeast

1. In the bottom of a mixing bowl, add one packet of active yeast (or 1 Tablespoon), 1 teaspoon of sugar and 1 cup of whole milk heated to 110 degrees F
2. Stir these ingredients together in the mixing bowl with a spoon
3. Let rest for 10 minutes
4. If your yeast properly proofed, it will have small bubbles in it and will have expanded in the bowl.

Creating the dough

1. Add the following to the mixing bowl with your proofed yeast:
   • 2 room temperature eggs
   • 6 Tablespoons unsalted butter (softened)
   • ½ cup sugar
   • 1 teaspoon vanilla
   • 1 teaspoon cinnamon
   • 1 teaspoon salt
2. Mix the above ingredients with a whisk attachment until blended.
3. Once blended add 4.5 cups of bread flour.
4. Mix using a dough hook attachment until fully blended. When the dough is blended properly, it will form into a ball with the dough hook and the sides of your mixing bowl will be nearly clean. This is the sign of great dough!

Let The Dough Rise

1. Shape dough into a ball and place in a greased mixing bowl
2. Cover with saran wrap and place two additional dish towels over the top and sides of the mixing bowl. We want to keep air out, and keep moisture in to allow for the dough to rise.
3. An extra trick I like to do which promotes great rising is to place this bowl and towels on top of a heat vent.
4. Allow dough to rise for 2 hours

Create the cinnamon roll filling mixture

1. In a small mixing bowl, combine the following ingredients:
   • ½ cup brown sugar
   • ½ cup sugar
   • 2.5 Tablespoons cinnamon
   • 1 Tablespoon regular white flour
2. In a separate dish, melt 4 Tablespoons unsalted butter and set aside. I’d suggest doing this after your dough is done rising.

Creating the Cinnamon Rolls

1. Once dough has risen (it will have doubled in size) remove from bowl and place on a greased surface. I like to spray some olive oil spray or Pam on my surface
2. Spend a couple of minutes working with the dough – both kneading it and punching it.The goal is to get all of the air bubbles out of it
3. Begin rolling your dough into a rectangular shape of 12” high x 24” long
4. Once a rectangle is formed, paint the melted butter onto your dough with a brush
5. With your hands or a spoon, sprinkle the cinnamon roll filling mixture across your buttered dough until the mixture is gone

Roll up!

1. Place your fingers under the bottom side of your rectangle and gently lift the edge from the surface.
2. Starting with a hand on each edge, roll your rectangle tightly.
3. Continue rolling dough until it’s formed one long roll.

Cutting the rolls

1. Using a ruler, make an incision in the dough log every 2 inches
2. If you’ve properly measured this, you’ll end up with twelve rolls total
3. Place nine rolls in a 9” x 13” baking dish
4. Place the remaining three rolls in a bread pan (or if you cut an extra roll place four in an 8”x8” baking dish)

Rising Round 2

1. Cover both baking dishes with saran wrap and dish towels
2. Place back over a heated vent for at least another hour
3. The rolls will expand and rise, doubling and almost tripling in size

Baking

1. Bake cinnamon rolls at 350 degrees F for 20 minutes on the center rack
2. Once rolls show any sign of browning on the edges it’s time to remove them from the oven
3. Place pan on a wire rack to cool

Note: As each oven is a little different, I’d suggest setting a timer for 17 minutes the first time you make these, and see how far along your rolls are.

Cream cheese Frosting

1. Whip together:
   • 2 Tablespoons softened unsalted butter
   • 2 oz Philadelphia Cream Cheese
   • ½ teaspoon vanilla
2. Once blended, add 1 Cup powdered sugar and mix until combined.

Frost cinnamon rolls and serve warm!

If you’re enjoying these beyond the first day, I find warming them up in the microwave for 20 seconds makes them taste like they’re right out of the oven!

As we inch closer and closer to Christmas Day, I’m soaking up every moment of enjoying the Christmas decorations around my house. The house has seen some big updates this year, most notably the hardwood floors and staircase, so I felt it was only fitting to spring for some new Christmas décor this season. Follow along as I walk you through four of my favorite spaces.

The Staircase

The staircase is the first thing you see upon entering my home and I wanted it to make an impression while being welcoming. I created a sweeping design with Afloral’s Norfolk pine garland and its the perfect whimsical welcome for this space. I topped the design off with some pretty vintage looking burgundy ribbon and tied some brass bells to the newel post for an extra layer of texture.

Shop the Holiday Staircase

Christmas Decor in The Dining Room

The dining room saw plenty of action over Thanksgiving, and I honestly had no plans to decorate it. But then I remembered I had my grandmother’s red table cloth. And then I was gifted a pretty white poinsettia. And then I recalled I had some red taper candles and an extra ceramic Christmas tree. Before you knew it, I was adding another two pieces of Crate & Barrel’s prelit garland above my windows and this space was a festive treat for the eyes.

The formal living room

The formal living room is right off the main hallway, and it gets some of the best natural light in the house. I thought it was only fitting to carry the Norfolk pine into this space in a few different spots. The mantel with a sweeping asymmetrical design, matching Norfolk pine wreaths on the windows topped with khaki velvet ribbon, and a pretty but simplistic table arrangement for the coffee table.

Shop The Holiday Living Room

By keeping the garland simple, my new flocked tree was really able to shine in the space and it is decked to the nines with vintage ornaments, both from my grandparents as well as from local antique stores I’ve been frequenting. I can’t wait to continue to collect more and more vintage glass ornaments over the coming years to build my collection.

The cozy Tv room: ultimate cozy christmas vibes

Last but certainly not least is the cozy tv room. This space got a makeover earlier this year when I decided to color drench the entire room. And while painting this space for the third time was the last thing I wanted to do, I kept telling myself how amazing it was going to look at Christmas. Lets just say it has wildly exceeded my expectations.

After a ton of research on how to pick the perfect Christmas tree, I splurged for a 7.5′ prelit Sanibel Spruce from Balsam Hill, and she is a beauty! I also added more of my favorite pre-lit garland from Crate & Barrel on the mantel and chose to create a beautiful draping design for this space.

Two matching cedar wreaths from Anthropologie adorn each window with leftover burgundy ribbon and I love seeing them pop when I walk into this space throughout the day.

I created a monochromatic village on my bookshelves by flipping the books around and painting the ceramic houses a creamy white. Pine tree candles are sprinkled throughout and my great-grandmother’s reindeer are staged on the center bookshelf. I added remote controlled tea lights in each house and love how easy it is to turn the village on and off every night. Remember plugging everything in and having cords everywhere? These tea lights have made everything so much more seamless and clean!

Parting Thoughts on this year’s Christmas decor

I went above and beyond with Christmas décor this year, but I have to say I don’t regret any of it. In fact, I’m already looking forward to sprinkling in holiday cheer into more spaces next season. The primary bedroom, kitchen and main bathroom are all on the list for spaces I hope to spotlight in a bigger way.

Whether you go big for Christmas, or prefer to keep things simple, I hope you’re able to take a quiet moment to yourself over the next few days to enjoy your home for the holidays. There is something so special about the warm glow of a Christmas tree, the scent of the perfect pine candle and the nostalgia of decorations passed down throughout the years.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to you and yours. Thank you once again for being here and I can’t wait to continue this journey with you in 2024!

Last week, I shared I upgraded my holiday garland this year and I took you along for the ride on how I styled my staircase with the Norfolk pine real touch garland. We’re going to keep the garland theme and move onto the fireplace mantles. That’s right, fireplace mantles as in more than one! Since I’m lucky enough to have two mantles, I decided it might be fun to try two different techniques for hanging garland on the mantel. Today we’re going to focus on a symmetrical draped look in the cozy tv den.

If you’re new here, you might have missed the massive transformation this room has gone through. We went from a band aide to a full on color drench in a dark blue grey, and this room is just begging for Christmas decorations. Since it’s now such a dark space, we are going to go a little “extra” in here this year, and sprinkle in several different layers of lights.

In the past, I’ve set my garland on top of the mantel, hung stockings on the sides and middle, and called it a day. This year, I felt I could do better. I spent quite a bit of time in November browsing garlands, and I stopped my scroll when I found Crate & Barrel’s faux hemlock pine pre-lit garland. It’s a fuller garland, and drapes beautifully, plus it has battery packs that can operate on a timer. I was able to go into the store to see it in person and it was just as beautiful as it was online.

Anchoring with Cup Hooks

With the size of my specific fireplace and mantel, two of these 74” garlands was just perfect to achieve the look I wanted. Since the garland is extremely heavy, I did not want to rely on command hooks. I also didn’t want to run the risk of the command hooks peeling off the paint on my shelving.

Luckily, since this is a 90’s house, my mantel is made out of wood which means I can easily drill into it. I decided to use 7/8 inch matte brass cup hooks for this and drilled on the inside lip of the mantel, disguising the visibility of the holes. I placed a hook four inches from both ends of the mantel and placed a third in the center.

Adjusting with Zip Ties

Placing a zip tie halfway up one piece of garland, I hooked it on one edge of the mantel. From there, I hooked it onto the center hook. I repeated this on the other side, and with some adjusting of the zip ties, I had a romantic look with minimal effort.

After the holidays wrap, I’ll unscrew the cup hooks and store them for the following year, and no one will know there was ever a hook there in the first place. What do you think about hanging garland on the mantel this way? I love the look of it, and can also rest easy knowing these hooks are tightly secured, and my garland is safe.

Tools for this project:

Faux Hemlock Pine Pre-lit Garland

Drill

Tape measure

7/8 inch cup hooks

Zip ties

Sharpie

Wire Cutters

What’s better than decorating your mantel for Christmas? Decorating two mantels! Yes that’s right, I am lucky enough to have two working fireplaces in this house, which was one of things that hooked me from the beginning. Last week, I shared my symmetrical draped look in the cozy tv den. To keep things interesting, I decided to try my design skills at an asymmetrical look for my second fireplace. My goal was to layer the garland and create a whimsical and effortless look.

Shop Norfolk Pine Garland

In the past, I’ve set my garland on top of the mantel, and didn’t really change much of the other décor out. This year, I knew I could up the ante and have been pinning ideas for months. Since my living room flows right off the main hallway, I thought it would make for a holistic design to continue the Norfolk real touch pine garland which I used on the staircase, into this room. The living room also gets a significant amount of light, and with a flocked tree in the corner, I didn’t think we needed to illuminate the mantel as well. Sometimes simple is better!

Follow along for a step-by-step tutorial of how to layer garland on the mantel, and some of the tricks I implemented along the way.

How To Layer Garland on the Mantel

Anchoring with Command Cord Bundlers

When I installed the hemlock pine garland in the cozy den, I chose to drill into the wood mantel and install cup hooks (a full tutorial is coming soon!). While this mantel is also wood, I wanted to try using command hooks first before drilling.

I purchased four Command Cord Bundlers from Amazon, which is what I needed to get the job done – this mantel is huge!

Prepare the surface

Before you start peeling and sticking, it’s important to prepare your surface. The three most important steps to follow are:

1. Wipe your mantel with water and a rag. Do not use cleaning solution, as this will weaken the bond of the adhesive on the command strips.
2. Use denatured rubbing alcohol and wipe the cleaned surface. This will ensure the surface is ready to bond.
3. Turn OFF your fireplace. That’s right – if your fireplace is on, it won’t allow the adhesive to properly dry. Keep the fireplace off until at least 24 hours after installation.

Place your cord bundlers

Your garland design will dictate how you space out your command bundlers. Are you creating a symmetrical design? Then place the command strips evenly. Are you adding extra garland on one side of the mantel (or both?)? Double up the command strips in those areas to help even the weight.

Place your cord bundlers onto the cleaned mantel and press firmly on top. Wait 1-2 hours to allow for proper bonding time before hanging your garland.

Use a base garland

A little secret from the design world: use a less expensive base garland to start. It’s like a little petticoat. No one needs to know what’s underneath, but it will fill all the gaps for you. I chose to set my base garland right on top of the mantel and it covered the cord bundlers. This is a great economical garland to use as a base if you don’t already have one.

Layer Garland on the Mantel

For this look, I used 4 of the 5 foot Norfolk Pine real touch garlands. I started at one end of the mantel, bundling with the cord bundles as I went, and kept hanging the garland on the mantel from there. Layering with some overlap was essential to achieve a fluid look. Two pieces covered the entire front of the mantel. From there, I used the last two pieces to drape in a dramatic fashion on the right side of the mantel.

Wire the garland

To avoid gaps, it’s best to use some floral wire and gently tie the garland that overlaps together. Things will adjust over time and this will help avoid any gaps in between your pieces.

Adjust strands

Fluff the garland, move some pieces or even layer in some additional stems to hide the command bundles, floral wire and anything else that may be unsightly. This 50 pack of faux pine stems is a great option!

Balance the mantle

This will depend on your overall design, but because I went for an asymmetrical look, I needed to balance the other side of the mantel with some additional décor. I opted for two cream knit stockings from Anthropologie. On top of the mantel, I left my four vintage candlesticks and the picture of my grandparents in a gold frame with large cream matte. I added a couple more brass candlesticks to the right side just to fill the space above.

The final look captures the whimsical and effortless look I set out to achieve! For my first year hanging garland on the mantel, I’m so pleased with how everything turned out. What do you think? How do you decorate your mantel? Drop me a comment below and let me know!

Sources for this project:

Norfolk Pine Real Touch Garland (4 pieces) *you can use code ALLISONSKIFFDOTCOM to save 15% off your order of $100 or more

Command Strip Cord Bundlers

Floral Wire

Cream knit stockings

Gold frame with matte 4”x6” photo

Let’s be honest, choosing the perfect Christmas tree can be overwhelming and sometimes you can be paralyzed by all the decisions that go into it. I should know, I just went through it this year! But I’m here to tell you it doesn’t need to be difficult. Today I’m sharing all of the things I considered before buying my new tree(s). Follow along and no matter your home size or style, I have everything you need to consider for choosing the perfect Christmas tree.

Real vs. Artificial:

The age-old debate. Real trees are undeniably magical: that piney scent, the fresh-cut sap, the Charlie Brown-esque hunt in the lot. But let’s be real, they’re also messy, high-maintenance divas that drop needles like confetti and leave you vacuuming tinsel till February.

Enter the artificial tree – the ever-loyal, low-maintenance old faithful. No shedding, no watering, just effortless Christmas cheer year after year. But can they really capture the magic?

Well, I’m here to tell you they can. This year, I snagged two artificial stunners that are basically the Beyonce and Jay-Z of Christmas trees:

• 7.5′ Flocked Vickerman: Now, this one’s a showstopper. Picture a winter wonderland straight out of Narnia, dusted in the most glorious faux snow. It’s like having a silent disco in your living room – all the sparkle, none of the sticky glitter aftermath.
• 7′ Balsam Hill Sanibel Spruce: This beauty is the epitome of classic Christmas. Lush, full branches, a perfectly symmetrical cone shape, and space in between the branches to go deep with ornaments. It’s like having a perfectly coiffed tree in your living room, minus the demands of keeping it alive.

Green vs. Flocked:

See, this is where things get personal. Are you a minimalist Scandinavian kinda person? Go green – it’s clean, classic, and pairs well with pops of color. But if you’re all about the maximalist Martha Stewart life, flocked is your jam. It’s instant winter wonderland, perfect for piling on ornaments and twinkling lights.

Full vs. Thin:

Full trees are the crown jewel of the bunch: bold, voluminous, and ready to command attention. They’re perfect for grand spaces and statement decor. But if your living room is more of a cozy nook, a thinner tree is your soulmate. It won’t overpower the space and lets your ornaments shine.

Height Matters (But Not Always):

Ceiling height is key: measure, measure, measure! But don’t be afraid to think outside the box. A towering tree in a small space can be dramatic and whimsical. And a mini tree on a pedestal? Instant chic.

The final Verdict on choosing the perfect Christmas Tree

There’s no one-size-fits-all answer. It’s all about your personal aesthetic and lifestyle. Embrace the artificial revolution or stick to your real tree roots. Go full-on Extra with a flocked masterpiece or keep it classic with a timeless green. Just remember, choosing the perfect Christmas tree means picking the one that makes your heart sing when you turn on the lights.

Happy Thanksgiving! As I’ve gotten older, Thanksgiving has inched its way to the top of the list as my favorite holiday. I love having the opportunity to spend quality time with my family and being able genuinely enjoy the long weekend. It feels slow, intentional, and warm.

This year has been difficult in many ways. Most notably it’s been filled with quite a bit of loss. As I reflect on this, I can’t help but be reminded by something someone once said to me. At my previous job, my boss at the time unexpectedly lost his mother right before the holiday season. It was awful. When I called him to share my condolences, he said his father once told him: “When you experience loss, you should count all of the things you do have.” It was something so simple yet so profound.

So, I want to take this opportunity to share the things I do have, and be intentional about cherishing them. I challenge you to do the same. Extra points if they’re things money can’t buy!

My Parents

Always at the top of my list, I’m so grateful and thankful for my wonderful parents. Growing up, I thought everyone’s family was just like mine (because most of them in my hometown were!) but as I’ve left the nest and stepped into other people’s lives, I realize how lucky I am to have parents like mine. They are my biggest cheerleaders and are such an inspiration to me. Both as individuals and as a model relationship.

My Family

Up until this year I still had three grandparents, and I realize what a rarity that is this late in life. As life goes, I unfortunately lost both grandmothers this year, leaving me with one remaining grandfather. Even though you know it’s coming, it doesn’t make it any easier. I’m thankful for all the wonderful memories I have with each grandparent. When I see certain things, or smell certain smells, I’ll always be reminded of them. And of course, I’m especially thankful for my remaining grandfather, Poppa Eddie as well as all of my amazing Aunts, Uncles and cousins.

Community

I’ve been blessed to have an incredible community of friends both near and far. It’s so important to know you can always count on someone when you need them. When I think about it, I need more than two hands to count the number of people that I know I can truly count on. How lucky am I?! Having a friend I can just sit still with, or a friend I know I can confide in with absolute trust is one of the most valuable things in life.

This Project!

If you know me personally, you likely know I’ve always loved design. Unfortunately, it’s not what I’m currently doing for a living, but I started this website and this brand as a way of dipping my toe into the design world. The sense of purpose this has given me, and the amazing community of like-minded people I’ve found in such a short time has been overwhelming and unexpected. This has been something I’ve thought about doing for years, and self-doubt has stopped me time and time again. I’m so glad I finally mustered up the courage to just go for it.

YOU

Lastly, if you made it this far, I want to say I’m thankful for YOU! Thank you for taking an interest in this project. Every comment, every like, every share, every follow – they all truly mean the most to me. I hope to continue to give back to you in the coming months and years. Whether it’s through education, inspiration, or just plain entertainment. Thank you for following along and all your support. I couldn’t do this without you!

Just for giggles…

In good fun, I’ll share I’m extra thankful to be done hand scraping 3,000+ square feet of popcorn ceilings. I’m also thankful I’m not living through a hardwood flooring renovation. I’m looking forward to some less dusty renovations for 2024 (more on that soon!).

Happy Thanksgiving

I hope each of you have a wonderful Thanksgiving with friends and family. Remember to take a moment to tell the people in your life how much you love them. And if you get a quiet moment to yourself, I hope you’ll think about all the things you have that money can’t buy.

Today I’m sharing something I wish I would have done years ago: protecting my leather sofa. My beautiful camel colored leather couch from West Elm was delivered the week I closed on my house and unfortunately there was so much chaos that I never got around to properly protecting it. Had I done so, I would have been able to prevent sun damage as well as general wear and tear from everyday use. Luckily, it’s still in decent shape, and by learning how to properly clean and condition leather furniture, I’ve been able to bring it back to life.

Before vs After (no photo editing)

Follow along as I guide you through a quick and easy tutorial on how to clean and condition leather furniture using a leather cleaning and conditioning kit. This is an important step in keeping your leather furniture looking and feeling its best, and it’s something that should be done regularly.

Why is it important to clean and condition leather furniture?

Leather is a natural material that can become dry and cracked over time, especially if it’s not properly cared for. Cleaning and conditioning your leather furniture helps to remove dirt and grime, and it also helps to keep the leather hydrated and supple. This will help to prevent the leather from cracking and peeling, and it will also help to keep it looking its best.

How often should you clean and condition leather furniture?

How often you need to clean and condition your leather furniture will depend on a few factors, such as how much use it gets and how dusty your home is. In general, it’s a good idea to clean and condition your leather furniture every 3-6 months.

What you’ll need:

• A leather cleaning and conditioning kit. I highly recommend the Chemical Guys’ leather cleaning kit. It’s colorless and odorless, and does a great job!
• A clean microfiber cloth (like these ones)

Instructions:

Step 1: Vacuum

Remove all cushions from your furniture (seating and backrest cushions) and set aside. Using your vacuum hose extension, vacuum on the base as well as in all crevices and seams. We don’t want to put our clean cushions back in the dirt!

Step 2: Apply cleaning solution to cushions

Shake the cleaning solution well, and spray 2-3 pumps directly onto your microfiber cloth. Gently wipe along the tops and sides of each cushion, making sure to get in between any piping and seams. The effort you put into this step, will ensure the conditioner properly sets into the leather during the next step.

Clean cushions one at a time, and set aside to dry. Generally 30-60 minutes of drying time is sufficient.

Step 3: Condition

Apply three lines of leather conditioning treatment to a new microfiber cloth. Gently massage onto the cushion, using circular motions. Work across the entire top side of the cushion, and then move along to the sides and seams.

Set each cushion aside to thoroughly dry.

Step 4: Condition again!

If this is the first time you’re treating your leather furniture, I’d recommend a second set of conditioning. Repeat the above steps, and allow cushions to dry for 2 full hours before placing back onto the frame of the sofa.

Step 5: Treat the couch frame

While your cushions are drying, we’ll repeat the same steps above to the frame of the couch. Work along the outside and inside of the arm rests, the back of the couch and also along the bottom front.

Repeat each step above.

Step 6: Assemble couch

After two hours of drying time, you can place your cushions back onto your couch. I would recommend waiting at least 24 hours before putting pillows, throws, etc. back onto any surface. This will ensure everything has had a chance to set in and do its job.

Conclusion

Learning how to clean and condition your leather furniture is an important step in keeping it looking and feeling its best. By following the simple steps above, my camel colored leather couch is buttery soft and will last me for years to come. If you have leather furniture, trust me that it’s worth the small investment in a leather cleaning kit to protect your bigger investment.

While I’m no stranger to hosting Thanksgiving, this will be my first time hosting both sides of the family which I’m very excited about. I love to cook, and especially love the excuse to make recipes I don’t get to make every day. Plus there’s just something special about those Thanksgiving staples like my mom’s stuffing, or a simple pumpkin pie. On the heels of finishing the dining room, I knew I wanted to make this Thanksgiving a little bit “extra,” and there’s no better place to do so besides setting a festive fall tablescape.

I’ll admit it: after the excitement wore off, the idea became a little overwhelming. Yes I can set a table, but no I have not created a centerpiece from scratch, nor does everything fit a certain color palette. Deep breaths. I set out to my go-to source for inspiration: Pinterest and after plenty of browsing, a few detours, and many pins, my vision started to take shape. As I know firsthand how overwhelming this can be, I wanted to share my top tips for designing your Thanksgiving table.

4 tips for designing a fall tablescape

Don’t overthink the color palette

If you’re like me, when you think about autumn or Thanksgiving, you immediately think of colors like oranges, reds and yellows. While you should certainly plan to incorporate some of these colors into your fall tablescape, there are no hard and fast rules that these should be the only colors on your table. In fact, quite the opposite can be true.

Turning to a color wheel for some show and tell, you can see how certain colors compliment their primary counterparts. Apply this to your fall tablescape and think outside of the box a little.  

Florals come in many forms

While adding in some fresh fall flowers is certainly an option for your Thanksgiving table, there are other ways to incorporate botanicals that can really make a statement. This can include a floral tablecloth, or can even come in the form of candles like these pine cone candles. Or look to your dinnerware for inspiration: there are some amazing sets of flower patterned china at deep discounts across facebook marketplace, estate sales or vintage shops.

Go for Gold

Gold flatware that is! I wanted to add a layer of warmth to the table, and before I knew any of my other elements, I knew that I wanted gold flatware. I found this amazing 40 piece set on amazon for a steal of a deal.

From there I browsed for some serveware additions that would make a statement and these large gilded spoons from Anthropologie were just the ticket. Don’t overthink getting an entire set that matches. Mine is a combination of pieces I’ve purchased throughout the years and I think it adds a layer of character to the table.

Add in Ambience

Whether it’s through small votive candles or large tapers of varying heights, sprinkle some candles throughout your table when and where you can. They add a layer of sophistication and so much warmth to the space. Turn on some background music (last year SiriusXM had an amazing Thanksgiving playlist) and the mood will be set for your guests to enjoy.

While the idea of designing the perfect Thanksgiving tablescape might seem overwhelming, it’s all about layering in small pieces that capture the spirit of the autumn season. Happy hosting!

Sources

Tablecloth – McGee & Co

Garland

Gold flatware

Gold serveware – sold out (see similar)

Cloth napkins

Napkin rings – vintage. (see similar)

Brass candlesticks – vintage. (see similar)

White taper candles

Pine cone candles

China – vintage. I’d suggest visiting your local thrift store!

Alright, so I’m taking the excitement I had to share the dining room progress report with you and I’m going to multiply that by ten for the dining room reveal!!! Are you ready for it? I am. I was beyond excited about how transformative the Cole & Son’s wallpaper was for this space, and we really kicked things up a notch with the Talia bubble chandelier from Visual Comfort. The room was really turning into the crown jewel of this house.

While all of that was amazing, these big changes really began to amplify that the dining room set needed a change. Or needed to be removed and replaced. You’ll recall during my dining room progress report that I just couldn’t stomach the idea of buying a new table that was going to be incredibly expensive and also very well likely not real wood. So even though this dining room transformation started out in a very non-DIY way, we’re going to roll up our sleeves for the finish line.

Table Transformation

I’ll admit it, I was incredibly nervous to refinish this table. I have limited experience with refinishing anything besides trim work, and I have absolutely no experience with wood stain. And although this dining table weighs a ton, I also wasn’t fully convinced every single piece of it was real wood (here’s looking at you, legs). So I didn’t know what I was getting myself into, but I knew I was biting off a big project with the deadline of Thanksgiving looming.

After some extensive internet sleuthing, I decided to try Retique It in the Pecan finish. Do not ask me how this stuff works, but let me just tell you: it works. With some light sanding, a bit of patience and a lot of trust, I transformed my black dining room table into a beautiful soft wood table. It seriously looks like it was custom built for this space!

If you’re curious about the process to get here, you can check out my full tutorial and tips here.

Finishing Touches

I rounded out the dining room table with some antique bentwood chairs I found on facebook marketplace (at an amazing price). I love how understated they are, as there is already so much to look at in this space. Can you believe the original blue seat covering matches the wallpaper exactly? What are the odds! I’m still on the hunt for two more chairs to add to each end of the table, but am in no hurry as I have some substitute chairs I can use as needed. If I’ve learned anything over the past several years, it’s that it’s better to wait for the right thing than rush into something that you know doesn’t work.

The blue sideboard, which I had previously and is also from facebook marketplace, tucks nicely into the corner. It is the perfect little trophy case for some very special family keepsakes from both grandmothers (and from their grandmothers!). I love being able to look at these pieces and think of them. Eventually I plan to hang a mirror above this but I’m in no rush to put holes in this wallpaper.

Before, Halfway + After

Future plans

After transforming the dining room table to the pecan finish, I do think there’s a bit much of wood on wood on wood, so I’ll be on the hunt for a rug to create some separation. Perhaps something clean with a light line or simple geometric pattern could play nicely with the floral wallpaper.

Nearing the end of the year, I’m beginning to shift focus to 2024, and have started a short list of projects both big and small I hope to complete for the house in general. One of those things is adding some millwork throughout the house and the dining room is one of those spaces. I think adding some custom trim to the lower half of the walls would really make sense for the style of this room. For now, it’s an idea living in my head, but don’t be surprised if you see an update about this next year!

The past few years open concept floors plans have been all the rage, but I’ll always be on Team Dining Room. I love the idea of defined rooms that can have their own personality and special set of memories. For me and this particular space, that includes hosting family and gathering around delicious food. I’m so thankful we have such a special place to make those kinds of memories in.

The dining room flip has been one of my most exciting projects to date in this house, however I truly reached a sticking point when it came time to make decisions about the furniture. If you remember, I got a bit tripped up with the design plans for the dining room because of this black dining room table. I loved the table itself, but the black finish didn’t fit the style of the new dining room, nor would it go anywhere else in the house. Rather than buy new, I wanted to see how I could transform my existing dining room table.

I’ve always loved the look of a pecan dining room table, but they can be so expensive! So when I heard about Retique It, I was intrigued and started thinking about the idea of transforming my black dining room table to a pecan finish rather than buy new. I’ll admit, I was a little nervous at first, but the process was actually really easy and I was amazed by the results.

If you’re not familiar, Retique It is a product that includes actual wood fibers and allows you to refinish furniture without the need for sanding. It’s available in a variety of wood finishes ranging from light to dark, and also comes with a graining kit. What’s even better, it’s is non-toxic and water-based, and also has a low VOC content. This means it emits very few volatile organic compounds into the air making it safe for use around children and pets.

After even more online research about the product, I opted to buy the Retique It Table Top kit from Amazon. This kit included everything I needed for the project and also came with very clear instructions, as well as links to watch more online videos. I strongly recommend you determine how much coverage you need and order the corresponding kit. I ended up needing 16 oz of the Wood’n Primer to coat my table three times (more on that below).

Here’s how I transformed my dining room table:

Step 1: Clean Your Surface

Wipe your surface with a damp cloth to remove any dirt or debris. Go over it a second time using either Dawn dish soap, Krud Kutter or denatured alcohol + water. The instructions for this product were very clear not to use products with TSP, as this will prevent the wood based coating from adhering properly.

Step 2: Lightly sand or scuff

While the promise of Retique It includes no sanding, I was working with a pretty lacquered surface. I decided to give it a light sand just to be sure the product would properly adhere. I went over all surfaces (top, sides, legs, edges) with 220 grit sandpaper, then wiped down again with another round of Dawn dish soap.

Step 3: Prime Time

I opted to order the table kit, which came with Retique It’s own paint brush. This brush is designed to create a slight wood grain, so while I have plenty of my own paint brushes I went ahead and used what was provided in the kit. I started with the Wood’n Primer that was included in the kit and painted a thin surface on all areas of the table. My recommendation would be to go light on this step, as you can always go over it again with another coat. With the first coat application, you can make shorter brush strokes and just focus on getting all areas covered. Let each coat dry at least two hours.

Since my table was black, I decided to put not one, but two more coats on the table. During your last coat of Wood’n Primer, work in smaller plank sized sections and apply the product with long brush strokes. Remember, you’re creating the look of wood grain which is continuous.

I will warn you during this phase, it’s going to look worse before it looks better. Trust the process and keep going.

Step 4: Grain It

This step is totally optional and I think it’s really to each their own. The kits come with two graining tools, which are large rubber stamps that mirror the look of wood grain. I’m opting not to do this, as I’d like a smooth looking finish and also feel there’s enough grain from the brush strokes, but if you do want to do this you’ll apply a thin coat of your Wood’n Stain in plank sized sections. Pull the graining tool through while the coat is still wet. If you mess up, just go over it again!

Step 5: Wood’n Stain

Using the same brush as my primer, the next step was to apply my Wood’n Stain in pecan finish. How many coats you decide to apply is truly up to you and the look you’re going for, but it can be anywhere from 1-3 coats. Each coat of Wood’n Stain will give you a deeper finish. For me personally, I decided to do two coats of the Pecan Wood’n Stain on the entire table and then one additional coat of the Gel Stain in Pecan just on the top of the table.

Just like the Primer, make your final coat in long brush strokes in the same direction for a seamless grain look. After using both the Wood’n Stain and the Gel Stain, I will share I prefer the Wood’n Stain. I found the Gel to be very runny and difficult to manage. If you have the option, I’d recommend finding a kit or purchasing the Wood’n Stain specifically. It goes on just a touch thicker.

An important note for those that have used other stains before: you do not wipe this stain like others. You simply apply it and let it dry for 2 hours in between coats.

Step 6: Seal It

We’re almost done! We just did all of this beautiful work, so now it’s time to protect your surface by sealing it. My kit came with a jar of Tripletique which is a waterbased epoxy alternative. The instructions state to stir this, not shake it, and apply thin layers until the entire container is finished. Drying time between coats is again 2 hours.

Conclusion

While I was initially hesitant about how to transform a black dining room table to a wood finish, I couldn’t be happier with the results. My old black dining room table is now transformed into a brand new pecan table. It cost me less than $100 and was a project I was able to complete inside of a weekend.

I would definitely recommend Retique It and feel it’s a product for any level of DIY experience. Just take some time to watch the tutorials in advance, or practice on an old piece of wood or furniture if you’re unsure.  What do you think? Would you try this project? If you have questions drop them below in the comments section!

Before

After

Sources:

Retique It Table Top kit (pecan)

If not ordering a kit, the below items are available individually

Retqiue It Wood’n Primer

Retique It Gel Stain in Pecan

Wood Graining Tools

Tripletique Water Based Sealer

*this post is not sponsored. This is an honest review of a product I purchased myself and would recommend to others.

I am beyond excited to share a dining room progress report with you today, as it’s turning out even better than I had ever dreamed! Last week I shared how my initial vision for the dining room did not pan out as I originally planned, but I trusted the process and kept designing until I felt one of my mood boards “stick” so to speak.

While part of this installation happened quite some time ago, I want to go back in time and walk you through the process of some of my decisions along the way. My hope is that by sharing my journey with this space, you’ll be armed with some things to consider for your next room flip.

Wallpaper

Wallpaper can be a tricky thing. All too many times, I’ve fallen in love with a pattern online, only to be disappointed with how it translated in person. What we all hope for, is it will match up fairly well from onscreen to real life. In a rare case, the opposite will happen, and the wallpaper will be even more beautiful in person than on the screen. This was one of those moments.

The minute I pulled the first roll of this Cole & Son wallpaper out of the box, I was mesmerized. The print has texture to it, and almost appears like painting brush strokes, and the quality of the paper is simply beyond. I was already excited about the choice, but seeing and holding it in person just took everything to another level.

While I am a true DIYer at heart, I made the executive decision to hire this job out. I know, I know. While this isn’t the norm for me, I was able to find a wallpaper installer in my area that had amazing reviews and charged an incredibly reasonable rate. Weighing the cost of this particular wallpaper (it was expensive!!!), and the fact I waited a bit longer for it to arrive from London, I decided it was worth the extra expense to ensure it was installed perfectly. Looking back, I’m so happy I did this.

Lighting

After I landed on the wallpaper, the lighting was the next design decision that followed. The wallpaper really feels like I’m bringing the outside in, so I wanted something that complimented that theme. The initial plan was this tiered chandelier by Visual Comfort. I loved the cascading globes, and the fact they were a frosted white would play so nicely with the palette that was currently unfolding with the wallpaper. However, I couldn’t get past the little crystals on the rod. I know it’s a tiny detail, but it’s one I would notice and likely fixate on.

Following the same theme, I continued my hunt until I found what I knew was “the one.” The Bubble Chandelier by Visual Comfort is what dreams are made of. I truly wish I had a picture of the size of the box this was delivered in. It was MASSIVE! The globes were in protective Styrofoam all organized by size, with a chart that showed how to assemble.

Along the same theme as the wallpaper, I opted to hire an electrician to install the cage of the chandelier. While I’ve learned how to rewire lighting on my own, I wanted to be able to stand back and look at the height from the table this would be. Again, super happy I just paid the $100 for the electrician to install the frame of the light. I was in charge of assembling all of the glass globes, which was actually quite fun! I enjoyed seeing it come to life and it really is a piece of artwork.

Dining Set

You’ll remember that during my mood board designs, the furniture was the biggest hang up for me in this space. I spent quite a bit of time browsing through dining set combinations, and at the end of the day, I cannot justify ordering something brand new. Especially when most of the pieces I’ve found definitely are not real wood. On the other hand, a black dining table just isn’t going to work in this space (or any other one in this house).

Since I really do love the actual dining table (the criss cross pattern and the shape of the legs are my favorite), I’m going to try my hand at refinishing it using Retique It. This process is currently giving me some stomach flips, as I admittedly do not know what I’m doing, but I’m deep into some YouTube tutorials and am determined to figure it out.

In the meantime, I found some adorable bentwood chairs on facebook marketplace from the 1950’s and immediately scooped them up! The upholstery is a blue that matches the wallpaper exactly! I mean, what are the odds right?! There are only four of these chairs, so I plan to find two additional chairs for each end of the table. I’m taking my time with this, as it’s not incredibly urgent at the moment.

Parting Thoughts

The dining room progress is certainly taking its own shape, and I’m really learning to love the idea of letting the design process unfold the way it should. While we still don’t know what the finished result will actually look like, I feel confident it’s going to be even better than I had originally hoped.

In the coming days, I’ll be sharing the process of flipping my dining room table which will come with the good, the bad and the ugly. But hopefully there’s no ugly to report! All in all, I’ll include an honest review of the process and finished result. Following that, we’ll be primed for a full reveal of the finished dining room, just in time for Thanksgiving!

When I bought my first house in 2011, I truly wish it would have come with a checklist of things I needed to do each year, and during each season. As with most things, I learned by doing (and failing!). Sometimes this was frustrating, and other times this was expensive. In an effort to help us save our money and our minds, I’ve put together a checklist of essential tasks to ensure your home stays warm, safe, and comfortable throughout the winter months. Winterizing your house is not just about keeping the cold out; it’s also about protecting your home from potential damage. So grab a cup of cocoa and let’s dive into how to winterize your home!

1. Clean Gutters

First on our winterizing checklist is cleaning those gutters. It might not be the most glamorous task, but it’s crucial. Clogged gutters can lead to ice dams, which can cause water to seep into your home and damage your roof. So get up there, remove leaves and debris, and make sure water flows freely.

2. Detach Hoses

Don’t forget to disconnect your garden hoses from outdoor faucets. Leaving them attached can lead to frozen and burst pipes. Drain the hoses and store them inside your garage or basement. As an added layer of caution, remove the nozzle from the hose. If you leave it attached (and leave it outside) you won’t be able to remove it in the future.

3. Move Patio Furniture Inside (or Cover)

Your outdoor furniture deserves some TLC too. Store it inside your garage or shed, or use weather-resistant covers to protect it from the harsh winter elements. This will extend the life of your furniture and save you money in the long run. I bought these duck covers for my chaise lounges and they’ve held up in the elements for several years. Far worth the investment to protect the furniture!

4. Move Plants Inside

Bring your potted plants indoors before the first frost hits. The cold can damage or kill delicate plants, so find a sunny spot for them inside your home to thrive during the winter.

5. Calling All Grillers

If you’re a year-round griller, make sure to disconnect the propane tank and store it in a safe, dry place. Cover your grill to protect it from snow and moisture, which can cause rust and damage.

6. Move Flower Pots Inside

Oops, here’s a lesson I learned the hard way – don’t leave ceramic pots outside during winter! They can crack and break when water freezes inside them. Take them indoors, and your plants will thank you.

7. Service the HVAC

Before the deep freeze sets in, it’s essential to have your heating system checked and serviced. A well-maintained HVAC system will run efficiently and keep your home cozy without skyrocketing energy bills.

8. Close the Pool

For those lucky enough to have a pool, it’s time to close it for the season. Clean and cover it to prevent damage from freezing temperatures. Blow the air out of the pipes, and add the necessary chemicals for your pool type and size to ensure an easy opening come spring time.

9. Deadwood Your Trees

Dead limbs on trees can become brittle in cold weather and pose a risk to your property. Hire a professional arborist to remove deadwood to keep your home safe from falling branches.

10. Inspect the Roof

Give your roof a once-over to check for any loose or damaged shingles. A small repair now can save you from costly leaks later.

11. Close Any Vents

Close any vents or openings around your home’s foundation to keep cold air out. This will also help with energy efficiency.

12. Inspect the Chimney

If you have a fireplace or wood-burning stove, have your chimney inspected and cleaned. A clean chimney is not only safer but also more efficient. To be on the safe side, it’s best to hire this job out to a professional.

13. Seal Any Gaps (Doors, Windows, etc.)

Inspect doors and windows for drafts. Seal any gaps with weatherstripping or caulking to keep warm air in and cold air out. This will save on your heating bills and keep your home more comfortable.

14. Cut Flowers Back

Finally, don’t forget your garden. Cut back dead or frost-damaged flowers and plants to encourage healthy growth in the spring.

By tackling these tasks, you’ll ensure your home is ready to face the challenges of winter head-on. Not only will you enjoy a warm and cozy atmosphere inside, but you’ll also protect your investment by preventing potential damage. So grab your checklist, gather your supplies, and let’s make this winter a breeze!

Stay tuned for more DIY tips and home renovation inspiration. And in the meantime, Stay warm, friends!

Just in time for the Thanksgiving holiday, the dining room is about to have the makeover she deserves. This room has been a slow progression, and honestly I wouldn’t have it any other way. While I’ve already finalized much of the design for this space, I want to bring you behind the scenes and share the final vision I have for the dining room makeover. It was not a straight and narrow path to get here, but I’m glad I exercised some patience during the design process and took my time with it. For some context, the dining room is the first room to the right when you enter through the front door. It’s an 11’x11’ room, and has two floor to ceiling windows looking out onto the front yard. It also has a swing door which opens up to the kitchen (I love this!) and is the only room in the house that has a chair rail (the moulding that’s towards the middle of the wall).

Where we started…

Since I had such a limited budget when I first bought the house, I focused on “resetting” the dining room and living with it for the first few years. This included scraping the popcorn ceilings, swapping out the light fixture with the one I had at my previous house and painting the walls a clean white. It wasn’t anything great, but I felt I had made it better than I had found it, and it was a band aide for the time being.

Above: Original Listing Photo | Below: Initial Band Aide

Where we’re going…

The chair rail in this space really had me fixated on installing wallpaper. I love the idea of breaking up a big pattern with some trim and this was the perfect formal space to really go for it. When I started mood boarding this space, I set out with the idea of keeping my existing chandelier and dining set. All of these things came with me from my previous house, and while I really wanted to make them work, it turns out it wasn’t meant to be. Why? Follow along for my string of mood boards…

Dining Room Moodboard – Option A (keep existing furniture)  

This was the first wallpaper that stopped me from scrolling that I thought could co-exist with my dining room set and chandelier. I felt the dark background would work perfectly with the existing furniture and light set up, while the magenta flowers would add a pop of bright color to break up the pattern. I envisioned painting the trim, ceiling and lower wall Sherwinn-Williams charcoal grey Peppercorn, knowing that the white oak flooring would help balance everything out.

I was so certain of this design that I almost just ordered the wallpaper outright. Thankfully, a voice of reason entered the scene (which was likely the order total in my shopping cart) and I decided to order a wallpaper sample first. Folks, if you’re thinking of installing wallpaper please order a sample. I will continue to repeat this message. The sample arrived and I tore it open like I was a kid at Christmas. Guess what? It felt flat and cartoon like. I couldn’t believe it, but we needed to move on…

Dining Room Moodboard – Option B (keep existing furniture)

Again, determined to keep my furniture and light fixture, I moved onto this wallpaper by Cole & Son. With the different tones of greens I can see both silver and gold being able to play nicely in the same space (hello chandelier, hello mirror) and the dark background would pair with the black table and chairs. I color matched Benjamin Moore’s Mediterranean Olive for the chair rail and molding and felt confident its warm undertones would work well with the floors.

Feeling good right? Cue the wallpaper sample…and again, we strike out. This time, the sample showed up way more metallic than I was expecting. I was really thinking this would be heavily green, and it was anything but. While I still like this wallpaper, I know the dining room isn’t the right space for it in this particular house. Moving on again…

Dining Room Moodboard – Option C (new furniture / light)

The universe was trying to tell me something and I was finally ready to listen. It might be time to let go of the table, chairs and light. Mentally letting go, I set out to design a lighter space and started with Cole & Son’s Florencecourt wallpaper. I first saw it from the Renovation Husband’s dining room and have been obsessed with it ever since.  

The samples were ordered and we passed with flying colors! What I saw, is what I got. Feeling good about this, I continued to mood board the space and was on the hunt for a light fixture that’s a bit cloud like. My original choice was this tiered chandelier by Visual Comfort, but after inspecting it closer I don’t love the little crystals. Paint wise, with so much going on between the light fixture and wallpaper, I think keeping the wall and trim color a simple white and pairing an understated lighter table with the room is the way to go. This design gets a gold star and moves to the final round.

Dining Room Moodboard – Option D (new furniture / light)

Having previously struck out with wallpaper samples, I was already onto Mood Board #4 while I was waiting for the Florencecourt sample to arrive. Spotted from The Established Home, I had daydreams of installing this hand painted wallpaper by Kelly Ventura. It is so whimsical and stunning but not overpowering, which is such a delicate balance to strike. I found this light fixture by Visual Comfort that looks like it was made to pair with this exact wallpaper and I like the idea of trying an oval table in this space. I felt the wallpaper needed a darker contrast and I think Benjamin Moore’s Amherst Gray is the perfect match as it has some green undertones running through it.

While I loved this last design the most out of all four, it ended up being cost prohibitive due to the wallpaper in particular. With it being hand painted, it’s a labor intensive product and is priced accordingly. I still love this design and think it would stand the test of time, it’s just not right for me at this time in my life.

Our Winner: Florencecourt!

While there’s still a ton of work to do with sourcing the new furniture ahead of Thanksgiving, I’m so happy to share that the Florencecourt wallpaper was the winner of the wallpaper contest! It’s already been installed and has truly made the dining room makeover one for the books. Stay tuned for more updates soon, as I’ll be sharing details about the wallpaper install and the unexpected decision I ended up making (you won’t believe it!). We’ll have a full reveal of the final space just in time for Thanksgiving. And I’ll be extra thankful to cross another room transformation off the list!

This one’s for my DIY enthusiasts! Today, we’re diving into a topic that often gets overlooked in the world of home renovation and design: ceiling painting. Sure, we all love a beautifully painted wall, but what about the fifth wall—the ceiling? Trust me, it’s a game-changer when done right. So, grab your paintbrushes and let’s turn that overlooked surface into a canvas of possibilities!

Step 1: Gather Your Supplies

Before we begin, let’s make sure you have all the essentials in your DIY arsenal:

• Paint: Choose a high-quality paint that suits your space and style. Ceiling paint is typically flat or matte, but you can use other finishes for a unique look. Check out my tutorial on paint sheens if you want to explore other options, and the pro’s and con’s of each.
• Paint Roller: Opt for a roller with an extension pole to save your arms from fatigue. A skin with a 3/8” nap should be perfect.
• Drop Cloths: Protect your floors and furniture from paint splatters.
• Painter’s Tape: Use this to mask off edges and create clean lines.
• Ladder or Step Stool: Ensure you have safe access to the ceiling.
• Paint Tray and Liner: Makes dipping your roller easier.
• Paintbrush: For cutting in around the edges. I prefer a 2.5” but no matter what size you choose, make sure your brush is angled for this project.
• Paint Edger: Optional but handy for achieving crisp lines.

Step 2: Prepare the Room

Clear the room of furniture or cover it with drop cloths. Remove light fixtures or ceiling fans if possible, or cover them securely with plastic wrap. Take the time to patch any holes or imperfections in the ceiling, and sand them smooth once the filler is dry. Lastly make sure your ceiling has been wiped down. You can use a Swiffer duster for this.

Step 3: Prime, Prime, Prime!

Never underestimate the power of a good primer. It helps paint adhere better and ensures a consistent finish. Apply a layer of primer to the entire ceiling, and let it dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Trust me; this extra step is worth it in the long run.

Step 4: Start Painting

Load up your roller with paint from the tray. Painting a ceiling is much like painting a wall. Begin at one corner of the room and work your way across the ceiling in small sections. Avoid overloading your roller to prevent drips and streaks, and try to paint with a little overlap in each section (this means starting the new rolling an inch into where you just rolled). Do not continuously roll over the same area, as this will creat what’s called “flashing.” Remember, slow and steady wins the race!

Step 5: Cut in the Edges

Use a paintbrush or a paint edger to carefully cut in along the edges of the ceiling, where the roller can’t reach. This step ensures a clean and polished look.

Step 6: Second Coat (If Necessary)

Depending on your chosen color and coverage, you may need a second coat. Allow the first coat to dry completely before applying the second. Drying time will be on your paint can, but if you can wait until the next day I always prefer to do so.

Step 7: Final Touches

Once your ceiling is dry, remove any painter’s tape and look for areas that my need some touch-ups. This is usually along the edge where the ceiling meets the trim/wall, especially if you’re using contrasting colors. Reattach light fixtures or ceiling fans, and move your furniture back in.

Tips for Success

• Work in sections: Don’t rush through it; divide the ceiling into manageable sections for a more even finish.
• Proper lighting: Use adequate lighting to spot any missed spots or imperfections.
• Ventilation: Keep the room well-ventilated to help the paint dry faster and reduce fumes.

Remember, painting your ceiling is a fantastic way to add character and dimension to your space. It’s an often-overlooked element of interior design that can truly transform a room. So, don’t be afraid to get creative and experiment with colors! Happy painting!

As always, stay tuned for more home renovation and design inspiration right here on HouseOnTheHarpeth.com Happy DIYing!

Are you ready to paint?! Follow along below as I guide you through how to paint a wall like a professional. Speaking of professionals, I’ll share the cost savings you can anticipate by choosing to DIY this project. Get excited – we’re about to transform your space!

Getting Set Up

After you’ve decided on your paint and have properly prepped your space, it’s time to get your painting clothes on and get ready to paint your walls!

First thing’s first: Open your paint can and start stirring. When you think you’ve stirred it enough, keep going. Seriously though, paint (even if it’s white) is mixed of multiple colors that will eventually settle to the bottom of the can. Stir your paint for at least 2 minutes straight, making sure you’re touching the bottom of the can.

Once your paint is mixed, pour paint into both your painting tray and your painter’s cup. Set the painter’s cup and paint brush aside.

Attach your extension pole to your roller (I prefer this but it’s a personal preference)  and dip the roller into the paint tray, coating it evenly. Roll off any excess paint on the ridges of the tray.

Rolling Technique

Start painting by rolling the roller onto the wall in a “W” or “N” shape. Apply even pressure and work on one wall at a time.

Above: painting a W on the wall. Below: filling the W in with the remaining paint on the roller brush.

Once you’ve painted your “W” or “N” use the roller without reloading it with paint to smooth out the in between unpainted sections of your letter. This eliminates any visible roller lines and is called “back rolling.” Continue painting the wall, working from top to bottom and from one side to the other. Maintain a wet edge, which means avoiding drying areas and overlapping sections while they are still wet.

Cutting In

Now it’s time to “cut in.” This is the part where you’ll use your angled brush to paint where the roller can’t reach, which will include around doorways and windows, corners, along the baseboards and along the crown molding / ceiling. If you’ve decided to tape the trim, this will be a faster process, as you won’t need to be as careful. I generally like to work from left to right, starting in the corner. I’ll paint up and down the corner first, as far as I can reach on the ladder along the ceiling, and then will move down to the baseboards.

Above: Cutting in against door trim. Below: Cutting in against the ceiling.

I’ll move the ladder and then repeat until I’m across the whole wall. This helps keep the paint lines wet, and prevents streaking. When using your brush, dip the brush about one-third of the bristle length into the paint and remove excess by tapping it against the side of the painter’s cup.

Drying Time + Second Coat

Continue to the remaining walls and then you’re all done with coat #1. Now I know it’s tempting to want to finish the job and clean up, but it’s important to let the paint dry. Drying time will differ based on the type of paint, and sometimes even the brand. It should be listed on the paint can. Honestly, I would wait a full day for the first coat to dry. Unless you’re painting a super small space and started early in the morning and will go for round two late at night, I generally feel giving the paint a full day to cure is the best approach. If you apply another coat too soon, you run the risk of lifting the paint up with your roller, which will make the paint look like it’s peeling in spots. Yes, I’m guilty of not waiting long enough…so please learn from my mistakes!

Once you’ve applied all coats of paint you should remove the painter’s tape while the paint is still slightly wet to avoid peeling the dried paint with it. Gently peel it off, walking with it as you peel.

It’s suggested to wait a couple days before hanging things like artwork or mirrors, however you can move your furniture back in place the next day.

What Would A Professional Cost?

As with most services, the cost of a professional will depend on where you live and how big your space is. For a frame of reference as it relates to Nashville, I can share for walls alone it’s roughly $2 per square foot. So for example if you have a 2,000 square foot home, it would cost $4,000 plus the cost of paint (around $200 for this space) to have your walls only painted.

All of this to say, painting your walls is a very manageable DIY project and is achievable with a little bit of patience and prep work. Personally, taking the time to hone this skill has saved me thousands of dollars over the course of owning a home. I encourage you to head to your local paint store, pick up some supplies and a gallon of paint and give it a try. You might just surprise yourself!

As the temperatures in Nashville begin to cool down, and the days become shorter, I’ve gradually started adding fall décor touches from the inside out. It is truly my favorite season of the year – the color palette, the smells, the crisp air, the food, sweater weather and all around general coziness. And something I’ve grown to love is styling pumpkins on my front door steps.

This will be my fifth fall season in this house and I feel like I can finally say I’ve gotten the hang of how to style pumpkins on the front door steps. However, it was a journey to get here. Coming from my previous house, which had only one step, I was a little overwhelmed the first year and honestly I didn’t know what I was doing. My current house has five circular steps leading up to the door, with the hand rails angling out from the top. This angle creates some extra ground to cover when decorating and filling in “the stoop.”

Pumpkin Display At My Previous Home (simpler times!)

Pumpkin Paralysis

The first few years, I remember looking at so many inspirational photos of beautifully styled steps on pintrest, only to arrive at the pumpkin stand and immediately feel completely overwhelmed upon seeing all of the shapes, sizes and endless choices. I don’t have photos of the first couple years, but I can say they were rough.

After some trial and error over the past couple years, I’ve found implementing styling techniques that I use in every day design has helped me tackle how to style pumpkins on the front door steps. If you face the same overwhelm that I once did, I hope that this post will serve as a thought starter for you, or at the very least will help making styling pumpkins on your front door steps a fun experience and not an anxiety ridden one!

Helpful design tips for styling pumpkins on steps

• Start Big – place your largest item(s) first and work backwards from there. Every year I get at least one monster pumpkin and place it on a lower step. I also love to buy mums each season and enjoy placing those in large pots flanking either side of the front door. These are examples of larger items to start with.

• Be Odd: place things in groups of three’s or five’s or even seven’s. This design rule in general is usually more aesthetically pleasing.

• Vary the size, shape and height: Too many big items look too uniform and too many small items can look cluttered. Work to pair gords with traditional pumpkins. Place little pumpkins with medium and large pumpkins. Create a pumpkin tower of three different pumpkins of different colors. Mix it up!

• Mix textures and colors: too much of the same looks unnatural, while mixed pairings create more visual interest for the eye. I love different colored pumpkins! Mix white, green and orange pumpkins together. Pair a smooth pumpkin with one that has nubs all over it.

New for this year

Each year I’ve lived here I’ve visited a local farmer’s stand nearby and have picked up a trunk full of pumpkins for my front steps. And I mean a TRUNK FULL! What’s even crazier is that I wish I could buy even more and really make these pumpkins spill all over the front steps!

Last year, as I handed over my credit card and quietly gulped at the total, I told myself that I’d look into adding some faux pumpkins into the mix. I spent a few months hunting for the right ones, but I will say the ones that I found were worth the hunt! Can you tell which ones are faux? (hint: two of the three are in this photo below)

If the faux pumpkins end up working out, I’ll buy a couple each year and slowly build up a little collection. So while my trunk this year was still quite full, the load was lightened a little bit. I’ll do a full review at the end of the season and share how they’ve held up. One thing’s for certain: they’re squirrel proof!

To close out the front step styling, I added a simple burgundy wreath for the front door. Earlier this spring I bought the same wreath but in a pretty green, and it held up outdoors in the elements. It actually still looks brand new!

Once I decorate for fall, it runs through Thanksgiving until I’m ready to put up Christmas decor. With that said, I tend to lean into a much more neutral decor style and focus more on the color palette of oranges, burgundies, browns and deep greens where I can versus the traditional black and orange Halloween decorations. But that’s the beautiful thing about design – it’s objective and there is no right or wrong. Whatever speaks to you is what you should follow. Right now, all of this is speaking to me and I’m snuggling up to it.

Reveal days are my favorite days! I’m so excited about how the powder room redesign turned out and I’m even more excited to share the full room reveal with you today.

How we got here

If you remember, I realized the pedestal sink wasn’t properly secured to the powder room wall, and after calling my plumber, we unfortunately had to remove a patch of drywall, install wood shims and re-plumb the lines. Since the existing wallpaper was out of stock, I was left with no choice but to redesign the entire powder room.

After putting together a handful of moodboards, I ultimately decided on this gorgeous wallpaper by Woodchip & Magnolia. While I loved all three wallpapers, after seeing the samples in real life the decision pretty much made itself. I also feel that based on where the room is located in the house (basically the center of the main floor), this wallpaper will lend itself to easily transition between the surrounding rooms and colorways I have planned for some upcoming renovations. (hello dining room, hello kitchen!)

Trim Decisions: Going Bolder

While the install wasn’t the easiest job, I knew instantly after hanging the first panel that I made the right decision for the powder room redesign. It’s so dreamy and soft, yet still packs a punch for this small space! Another thing that really excited me about this particular wallpaper was the limitless possibilities for the trim, door and ceiling colors. Since painting the trim in the tv room, I’m a bit obsessed with the idea of non-traditional white trim and definitely wanted to try a color out in this space.

Testing 1-2-3

Laying out paint swatches on top of the wallpaper didn’t prove to be as helpful as I had hoped, as I have natural light in every room except the powder room. Because of this, how the paint will look in the actual powder room will be much different than anywhere else in the house I was reviewing swatches. Rather than paint before wallpaper, I opted to install the wallpaper first so I could get a true picture of how the colors would go together. In hindsight, I’m SO glad I did this.

The two colors I narrowed down from paint swatches, were a pretty green (Sage Mountain) and a brown grey (Squirrel Tail). After painting samples on the baseboards and waiting for them to dry, I knew quite quickly that neither color felt like “the one.” I had to sit with this for a while and ask myself why neither of these worked, and after a while, I realized the answer was they both stood out too much. And then the answer hit me: The wallpaper is the leading lady of this room, and I needed a paint color that would play the best supporting actress role.

Pondering what to do, I put on one of my favorite design shows: The Established Home and landed on an episode where Jean paints a butler’s pantry this gorgeous chocolate brown in high gloss. I paused the show, went into the powder room and looked at the wallpaper and knew that was it. After going down a rabbit hole on google, I was able to color match the color to Farrow & Ball’s London Clay. We have one place in Nashville that carries this paint and the next day I was off to the races to buy a high gloss can for the trim and a dead flat for the ceiling. After applying the first coat, I knew: this was the one. It’s just a feeling!

This was my first time using a full gloss paint sheen and I have to say, I’m absolutely hooked! Everything looks like jewelry – it’s so luscious and rich looking. It is such a showstopper, and when I close the bathroom door I love seeing the shiny brown looking back at me.

Supporting Cast: The Light Fixture

Another little speed bump I hit during this design was the light fixture. In the original moodboard I had selected this cute bumble bee sconce, which I thought was a fun play on the floral wallpaper. Unfortunately, when I went to order it I realized this light fixture was out of stock for the next two months. We’ll just say I didn’t love it enough to wait that long for it.

Back to the drawing board

On the hunt again, I was out to find a new sconce and was having a hard time. I decided to try out a large scale sconce from Visual Comfort and was so excited for it to arrive to the house. However upon unboxing it, it was not what I was expecting in the least. I had hoped the “glass” cover was actually glass however it was plastic, which really made everything feel quite dated. We’re trying to get out of the 90’s over here not go back to them! Reluctantly, I returned it and was back on the hunt.

After looking at countless light fixtures, I decided simple would be better for this space and changed up the search to look for something clear. Ultimately I landed on this beautiful double sconce from Rejuvenation and after installing it, I couldn’t be happier. It’s the perfect shade of brass, has two lights (which is sufficient for the small space), and I love how the clear globes allow the wallpaper to shine through.

Final Touches

Moving to the mirror, I was actually able to shop my own house for this! Going back to the moodboard, I wanted a wooden mirror to help break up all the brass. If you don’t order all the fixtures from the same place, it’s usually quite impossible to get an exact match on brass. I had found this cute little mirror at a vintage shop in Nashville a while back and I love how it incorporates both wood and has some gold added in. It’s the perfect size for the space on the wall and I couldn’t be happier with how everything works together.

Lastly, I wanted to swap out the old white switch plates for some brass ones. I’m so happy with this brushed brass outlet plate and double switch plate from Amazon. I had browsed so many different options with a wide range of price points and these compete with the best of them. They look high end and were incredibly affordable. Finally, to round it all out, I found a unique toilet paper holder that adds a fun touch to the space!

Looking Back To Look Ahead…

Looking back, I remember how irritated I was to spend time and money renovating a room that in my mind was “done.” But upon completing the powder room redesign (for the 2^nd time) I have to say my perspective has changed. Even though I loved the previous version of the powder room, and it holds a special place in my heart, I couldn’t be more in love with this updated version. My design style has drastically evolved over the past five years and I feel this space is a better representation of my design aesthetic today. As I pass by this space multiple times daily, I love that it will not only be a beautiful space to glance over at but will also serve as a reminder that change isn’t always a bad thing.

Sources: Wallpaper | Toilet Paper Holder (similar) | Brushed Brass Outlet Plate | Brushed Brass Double Light Switch Plate | Faucet (out of stock – similar) | Pedestal Sink | Light Fixture | Mirror is Vintage (oval wooden mirror option)

A couple weeks ago I shared my vision for the Powder Room Makeover, including three moodboards – all featuring different wallpaper designs. In addition to the moodboards, I ordered samples of each which helped narrow down the decision between Moodboard #2 and Moodboard #3. In the end, I decided to move forward with Woodchip & Magnolia’s Ava Marika Moody wallpaper and I’m so glad I did! It’s even prettier in person and the color pathways are absolutely stunning.

This wallpaper is straight paneled, meaning that each roll contains three panels and they line up precisely. No more measuring for a repeat pattern and collecting large wasting heaps of wallpaper (it’s expensive!). I’m already a huge fan.

Anytime you’re going to wallpaper it’s important to read the instructions, as some papers are paste the wall and some papers are paste the paper. So far, I’ve installed paste the paper and I’ve also installed a peel and stick vinyl wallpaper, so this is going to be a first. The instructions also suggested to utilize a more heavy duty paste, so even though I had some leftover paste in the garage from a previous job, I invested in a tub of Zinsser Sure Grip Heavy Duty Wallcovering Adhesive.

Installation:

Following this install, I’ll do a separate post about the different types of wallpaper, pro’s vs con’s of each kind + what it costs to hire a professional. To keep it short, this was not the “easy” job I had hoped for, but it was doable by myself. The biggest challenge was the small confines of the room and working around the toilet to get to some of the high corners with my ladder.

Everything I needed for this job: Smoothing Tool | Seam roller | Wallpaper brush | Exacto knife | 24” Ruler | Scissors | Ladder | Paint roller | Paint skin | Wide Bucket | Paint brush | Roller Grid | Wallpaper Paste | Drop Cloths

Choosing A Trim Color

Originally I had hoped to paint the ceiling and the trim prior to installing the wallpaper, as I didn’t want to get paint on it, but after reviewing some paint swatches next to the wallpaper, I decided to wait. The powder room does not have a window, and I also decided to get a new light fixture for the space. These two factors alone can completely transform how the paint looks in this space vs in the dining room which is where I was laying everything out.

Based on where I cut each panel (top & bottom) the color ways were a little bit darker than the middle of the panels which is where I was pulling colors from. I felt my original plan for shiny kettle would be too contrasting against some of the darker colors, especially at the ceiling. Additionally, as much as I wanted it to work, I don’t think it was the right pink to pair with this.

After laying out twenty different swatches I narrowed the decision down to two choices: Benjamin Moore’s Sage Mountain and Benjamin Moore’s Squirrel Tail. Sage Mountain (top left * option) is a muted green with grey undertones and I thought it pulled the green tones out of the wallpaper in a beautiful way, while not stealing the show. Squirrel Tail (bottom right * option) laid really beautifully against the background colors of the wallpaper, and since this color is going to be at the base and the crown, I think a grey with warm undertones would be complimentary to the overall design.

Since picking the trim was such a process, I decided this was not the time to guess and headed to the store to pick up paint samples. For reference, you can get little pots in an eggshell finish for about $7 each. It’s worth the cost of your time, rather than painting your space the wrong color and then having to do it over.

I painted little patches of each color side by side on a strip of baseboard that the sink will eventually go in front of. Both colors looked so similar as I was painting them, however after drying there was a stark difference. And I’m still not sure…

I think the answer is that we still don’t have a winner. I’m going back to the drawing board tonight (aka my paint wheel) and am also going to start scrolling through some photos from my favorite designers for some inspiration. While I’m anxious to finish this space, I want to get it right and fall head over heels in love with it.

Light Fixture Drama

I wanted drama for this room and I’m getting it! The original light fixture I had planned for (this bumblebee sconce) is currently backordered until November and I don’t love it enough to wait that long. So back to the drawing board I went, looking for something new. My parameters were the length (needed to be at least 15″ long but couldn’t exceed 22″), a brass finish, and at least two light bulbs. During my search, I found this extra large dresser sconce from Visual Comfort, and I thought it would add an unexpected twist to the space.

Unfortunately after unboxing it, it did not live up to the expectations in my mind. While the brass was beautiful, and the perfect finish for the space, the clear part of the light was the issue for me. I was expecting it to be glass or crystal, and it was actually plastic! For the price point of this, I was incredibly disappointed. Although, it was only my own fault as I’m sure that was listed in the product description and I missed it. I took the light fixture into the powder room just to be 100% sure, and after that I knew it was getting returned. The plastic really set the room back 20 years, and that’s not the direction I’m trying to go!

As of now, I’m back on the hunt for the right light fixture but am proud of myself for not settling. I’ve learned the same lesson too many times, where I’m eager to get a space done and just settle for something I know isn’t right. Ultimately a few months later I end up replacing whatever that thing is for what I wanted in the first place. So while this is a bit annoying to not be “finished,” I have faith that the final version is going to a showstopper, and I’m going to love every last detail.

Stay tuned for more soon…

Paint is one of the most instantaneous and easiest ways to transform a space, but sometimes all the choices can be a bit overwhelming. Today, I’m going to break it all down for you and arm you with everything you need before heading into the paint store. We’ll go over the basics which include an overview on paint sheen, paint type and tips on how to choose a paint color in the article below. Lets get to it!

Which Paint Sheen Is Right For Your Project?

Picking the right paint sheen (also referred to as paint finish) is going to depend on what you’re painting. Here are some pro’s and con’s to start thinking about for each type of paint sheen.

• Flat / Matte:  
  • Pro’s: hides imperfections and provides a non reflective finish.
  • Con’s: It’s not durable and is difficult to clean (i.e. you’ll easily see areas you tried to clean).
  • Pro Tip: Flat paint is generally a builder grade choice because it’s the cheapest. I would suggest leaving this for the ceilings and going up one sheen for any walls.
• Eggshell:
  • Pro’s: Eggshell finishes meet in the middle balancing both matte and shine. Versatile for various surfaces, durable and easy to clean minor stains with gentle scrubbing without losing the finish.
  • Con’s: As we increase the sheen, imperfections become more visible. If your walls have uneven surfaces, expect eggshell to showcase these more than a matte would.
  • Pro Tip: If your room gets moderate to low light, this is a great option. Eggshell is what I’ve used on almost all of my interior walls.
• Satin:
  • Pro’s: Is more durable than an eggshell or matte paint. It has a subtle hint of sheen.
  • Con’s: We are going in order of shine, so this is a more reflective sheen. If you have a room that gets a lot of light, you may want to bump down to eggshell.
  • Pro Tip: A satin finish is a great choice for trim in a room that gets a lot of light, as it’s durable but won’t be super reflective.
• Semi-gloss:
  • Pro’s: highly durable and works well in high-traffic areas like kitchens and bathrooms. It resists moisture and stains, and provides a smooth surface. Offers a noticeable shine.
  • Con’s: Semi-gloss can highlight surface imperfection, so make sure your surface is properly  prepped (sanded, wood filled, cleaned)
  • Pro Tip: Semi-gloss is the go to choice for trim in most rooms, as well as other high traffic surfaces. Just ensure your surface is properly prepped to eliminate imperfections showing through.
• Gloss / High Gloss:
  • Pro’s: beautiful glossy surface and highly durable. This finish provides an elegant and modern look.
  • Con’s: again the higher the gloss the more likely imperfections will be noticeable. Additionally, application can be tricky on large surfaces, as it needs a perfectly smooth surface and balanced humidity for optimal and even drying.
  • Pro Tip: this finish is best for trim work, molding and wood. If you’re considering a larger surface you may want to practice first, as it can be a tricky one to get right!

How To Choose A Paint Color

While this is the most exciting step, and many of us are quick to get right to it, I encourage you not to rush through this. A lesson learned the hard way I will share with you: in my early days of interior painting, I chose a grey paint off the color wheel that I thought looked great. I went through all the trouble of applying it to my dining room, only to find out that because of how the light came through my windows, it ended up looking purple, which is my least favorite color (actually I can’t stand it). To make matters more embarrassing, I chose another grey off the color wheel and painted it the next day. When I turned on my chandelier, the light cast through my black shade, made this new grey paint appear an even darker purple!! I wasted about $200 and a weekend’s worth of time because I didn’t plan. So learn from my mistakes and take the extra time to buy some samples and paint some swatches to check out as your lighting changes throughout the day.

 Some other thoughts on choosing a color: I believe this is a very personal choice and can be thought about in a few different ways.

1. Love of a color: maybe you just love a color and want your walls to be that color. If that’s the case then go for it!
2. Practicality: I generally like to stick with neutral colors like white, grey and beige for larger spaces. This makes the room feel like a blank canvas to me and allows me to accessorize with artwork, furniture and other décor. Again, this is just a personal preference and there’s really no right or wrong.
3. Warm vs Cool: there are undertones in every shade of color on your paint color wheel. Take the time to think about what kind of undertones would work best in your house. Are your floors a warmer tone or a cooler tone? If you’re not sure, place your paint swatches on your floors and you’ll see if the hues compliment one another, or if they compete.
4. Light: what kind of natural light does your room get? If you’re painting a movie room, you probably don’t want it to be bright so stick with a dark color. If you’re painting a bedroom that has a million windows, maybe opt for something soft that isn’t necessarily white (it could feel like an asylum if it’s too bright).
5. Trending: every season there is a new trend of colors. If you know you want a refresh but aren’t married to a color yet, I would suggest starting a mood board and pinning some ideas of rooms you like from your favorite design magazines or Instagram accounts.
6. Focus pieces: another idea if you’re on the fence with a color is to consider some of your staple pieces that you know will be part of that room. For example if you have a piece of artwork that you definitely want to belong in this room, consider color matching one of the colors in the painting for your walls. It can be a subtle way to tie the room together.

Which paint type is right for your project?

Lastly, you’ll need to decide which type of paint is best for your project. Options include:

• Oil based – oil based paints are typically more durable and a bit cheaper than latex paints, however they take longer to dry and are very odorous. I personally don’t use oil based paints much, but they’re usually used for trim and molding, as well as high gloss sheens (see below).
• Water/Latex based – faster drying time, easier to clean, less odorous. Typically great choices for interior walls. These are my go to.
• Primer – think of this as a base coat which is meant to fill in pores and level the playing field before you apply your new paint. If you’re painting with an oil based paint, use oil based primer and vice versa. *Do not skip this step! Applying primer is cheaper and will save you extra top coats in the long run. Most importantly it will ensure your color comes out true. Just imagine painting a beautiful creamy white over a deep charcoal grey wall. The primer will reset the wall and absorb the top coat of creamy white so it comes out true to form when it dries.

Related

Paint Supplies + How to Prep The Space

How to Paint a Wall

How to Paint a Ceiling

Painting Crisp Paint Lines

The Benefits of Color Drenching

Shop My Go-To Paint Supplies

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There’s nothing quite like a gorgeous autumn flower arrangement. The colors are rich but not overpowering, and they blend into the background while still making a statement. If you’re like me, you’ve probably seen a stunning image of one of these autumn arrangements in a catalogue or on social media, and you’ve thought to yourself “that would be perfect for my house.” But then you realize that pretty little arrangement is going to set you back a few hundred bucks after you order the vase and the right number of stems to fill it. Speaking of which, how many stems do I even need?

This fall, I was determined to crack the code on how to style autumn flower arrangements without spending a small fortune, but while still achieving the designer look. After some trial and error, I can confidently say we nailed it. In this tutorial, I’ll walk you through the process of how I styled four different types of autumn flower arrangements. I’ll also go over how I determine the right stems for different types of vases, as well as tips for selecting flowers and vases.

Materials Needed:

Autumn Flowers (e.g., artificial flowers, branches, stems, leaves, or berries)

Vases (various sizes and styles)

Floral foam

Paper (for filling the vase)

Step 1: Your Vase + Selecting the Right Stems

Before you begin, consider the type of vase you’re working with and the overall look you want to achieve. Here are some tips for selecting the right faux fall stems:

1. Large Round Vase: Opt for stems with full foliage to create a dramatic and eye-catching centerpiece. Choose stems with long branches or flowers that spill over the sides for a lush and abundant look. You can choose to go monochromatic or incorporate a mix of textures, colors, and heights for added visual interest.

• Tall Vase: Look for long and slender stems that complement the height of the vase.

• Tall branches or grasses work well to fill the vertical space. Consider using a single type of stem for an elegant and streamlined appearance.

• Short Vase: Select shorter stems or cut longer stems to fit the height of the vase. Focus on small to medium-sized blooms or branches to ensure they don’t overwhelm the vase.

• Vase with a Small Opening: Choose stems with narrow profiles, such as thin branches or slender flowers. Trim stems to the appropriate length to fit through the opening without crowding.

Step 2: Determining the Quantity of Stems needed

Here are a few questions and considerations to help you determine how many stems you’ll need for your arrangement.

• Vase & Desired Shape: Which vase you’re using and what shape you’re desiring will help drive how many stems you’ll need.  Do you want a full, rounded look or a more sparse and airy appearance?

• Foliage Density: Examine the foliage or blooms on your faux stems. Some stems have more leaves or flowers than others. Keep in mind that if your stems are particularly dense, you may need fewer of them to fill the vase adequately.

• Vase Opening: If your vase has a smaller opening, you’ll likely need fewer stems. On the contrary, if the vase has a larger opening, you’ll need more stems (or stems that are fuller) to properly fill the space.
• The Rule of Thirds: when in doubt, use the rule of thirds for a balanced look. Divide the height of your vase into thirds and aim to have your stems occupy the top third. This allows for a visually pleasing arrangement without overstuffing the vase.

Step 3: Preparing the Vase

Before arranging your faux fall stems, make sure your vase is clean and ready for use. If you have a large vase with a wide opening, you may want to add some packing paper to the bottom to help fill the space and additionally place floral foam on top of the paper in order to secure the stems in place.

Step 4: Assembling

Now, it’s time to arrange your faux fall stems in the vase. Here’s how I styled my four different arrangements.

How I Styled 4 Different Arrangements

a. Large Round Vase – total cost $65

Since this vase is so large, I opted to stuff crumpled packing paper in the bottom to help fill the space. I cut floral foam to fit through the opening, making sure at least two of these pieces were the length of the vase. This arrangement will sit in the center of my kitchen table, so I wanted a full look all the way around.

I chose these large red maple leaf stems which I thought would pair nice with both the vase itself, as well as the setting I was planning on placing it in. Since the foliage is quite full after being properly fluffed, I only needed three stems for this arrangement. I kept one stem more upright and placed it in the center first, then placed the two remaining stems on the sides, bending them a bit to create a fuller and draping effect.

Sources: Crate & Barrel Jimena Round Vase (currently out of stock – similar vase here) | Brown & Burgundy Maple Leafe Bush ( 3 total)

b. Short Vase and Vase with a Small Opening – total cost $40

This arrangement is for my bedroom and I knew would be placed on a light blue dresser. I liked the idea of choosing these stems, as I felt the tones in the orange weren’t too aggressive and would compliment the color of the dresser as well as that of the vase. Additionally, the foliage was not too large for the scale of this vase. I chose two short stems and after properly fluffing them they were more than adequate for the size of this vase. I placed a couple pieces of flower foam in the bottom to help them stay secure. Couldn’t have been simpler!

Sources: Leann Ford Full Moon Clay Vase | Orange & Red Beech Faux Stems (2 total)

c. Medium Height Vase with Narrow Mouth – total cost $55

I found this vase at Target and felt the colors were so perfect for the fall season. I wanted to create a dramatic effect for this, and I felt this golden berry bundle would be perfect. The stems were easy to bend and really tend to drape in a natural looking fashion. Since this was going to go up against a wall, and not act as a centerpiece, I only used 3 stems as I wanted the backside to be a little closer to the wall. I’d suggest using 4 total if this were going to be in the center of a room.

Sources: Studio McGee Vase | Yellow Berry Bundle Stems (3 total)

d. Tall Vase with Narrow Mouth – total cost $90

The last arrangement was the simplest. I had this tall narrow vase and decided I wanted to go large scale and create something dramatic to be placed in a corner. I chose three of these pretty burgundy eucalyptus stems in the longer length. I bent the bottom of each stem, and then placed one stem in the center of the vase and the other two on each side, making sure to lean them against the lip of the vase. It’s the most simple arrangement but also the most dramatic. A little more expensive, as longer stems tend to be double the price of the short ones.

Sources: Crate & Barrel Geo Vase | Tall Burgundy Eucalyptus Stem (3 total)

In Conclusion

Styling faux fall stems is a creative, enjoyable and simple way to bring the beauty of autumn into your home. Remember to select stems that match the vase’s size and shape, and don’t be afraid to mix and match different elements to achieve your desired look. For these examples I chose to go monochromatic but it’s also fun to mix and match for scale, color and texture. If you’d like a more visual step by step guide, feel free to check out my YouTube video below. I’ve also included some of the best faux fall stems I’ve found this season below to help get you started. Happy decorating!

sources

1. Brown & Burgundy Maple Leaf Bush *used in my demo
2. Yellow Berry Bundle *used in my demo
3. Orange & Red Beech Faux Stems *used in my demo
4. Plum Cimicifuga Ramosa Leaves
5. Fall Eucalyptus Leaves
6. Baby’s Breath Silk Burgundy Flowers
7. Willow Eucalyptus Stem
8. Oak Leaf Stem
9. Brown Hydrangea Stem

This year I’m making a few updates to my fall decor, and since it’s a bit too hot out to start placing pumpkins, I’m starting from the inside and working my way out. I love bringing some simple accent pieces into my house, especially ones that I know will stand the test of time with a beautiful simplistic design. Follow along below as I share some of my favorite ways to start transitioning your home decor for the autumn season.

Faux Fall Stems

I’ve been seeing so many amazing fall flower arrangements, and most of the ones that catch my attention are either dried or faux. I’m rounding up some of my favorites below, which to my surprise, were all relatively affordable with the exception of one or two. I encourage you to try your hand at arranging some of these beauties for your own home (see the * stems below for the ones I have myself!). And if you need a little help getting started, I put together a full tutorial, with design tips & tricks!

sources

1. Brown & Burgundy Maple Leaf Bush *used in my demo
2. Yellow Berry Bundle *used in my demo
3. Orange & Red Beech Faux Stems *used in my demo
4. Plum Cimicifuga Ramosa Leaves
5. Fall Eucalyptus Leaves
6. Baby’s Breath Silk Burgundy Flowers
7. Willow Eucalyptus Stem
8. Oak Leaf Stem
9. Brown Hydrangea Stem

Plaid Throws

There are so many great plaid throws this season, and while it was hard to pick just a few, I rounded up a few of my favorites. I feel each of these incorporates a beautiful fall palette, and there’s a blanket for every color scheme and every price point. When it comes to cozy accents, you really can’t go wrong.

sources

1. Pendleton Eco-Wise Washable Wool Fringed Throw Blanket, Juniper/Fawn, One Size
2. Touchet Tartan Plaid Blanket x Charlton Home
3. H2 HOME COLLECTION Nora Plaid Fringe Trim Wool Blend Throw Blanket
4. Boll & Branch Alpca Plaid Throw Blanket
5. Windowpane Check Tartan Rust Red Wool Blanket
6. The Tartan Blanket Co. Recycled Wool Knee Blanket Stewart Natural Dress Tartan 28″ x 65″
7. Hastings Home Cashmere-Like Blanket Throw
8. Lands Down Under Wellington Plaid Throw
9. Laurel Foundry Winkfield Plaid Cotton Blanket

 

 

Recently, I noticed that the pedestal sink in the powder room was wobbly, and after further investigation I realized it wasn’t connected to the wall! After calling the plumber we came to the unfortunate truth that the sink wasn’t connected to any studs in the wall, but was simply drilled into drywall. The plumber had to cut a hole in the wall, install wooden shims and replumb everything. In order to do so, he had to remove a section of the wallpaper. Since this wallpaper is five years old, it isn’t produced anymore and I don’t have any leftover, so….surprise! We’re making over the powder room.

This is a little bittersweet, simply because this is the first room I flipped after buying this house and my mom and I did it together. Actually it was the day after I signed the house – I just couldn’t wait. I found this gorgeous wallpaper by Graham & Brown that had a little bit of sparkle in it. I love the concept of making a small powder room dark and moody, and this wallpaper was just the ticket!

Above: original powder room | Below: my 1st renovation after closing on this house. I was so proud of it!

Since the pedestal sink is propped up in a corner of my dining room, and I have a giant hole in the wall, I’m highly motivated to get moving on a new design concept. The plumbers can’t come back until I’ve patched the hole and have uninstalled the old wallpaper and re-installed the new wallpaper, so it’s time to get moving!

Moodboards

I’ve put together a handful of moodboards to start visualizing the next phase of this room, and it’s definitely starting to excite and energize me about the impending change. I’ve had a couple wallpapers bookmarked for a while now, so I’m hoping this might be the right spot for them. I’m a firm believer in ordering wallpaper samples and creating moodboards to get the design out of your head and onto paper. Here are my top 3 contenders.

Moodboard #1:

I’ve been eyeing Sandberg’s Kvitten wallpaper in midnight blue for a while now, and have been trying to find the perfect place in my home to integrate it. I love the muted green color in the leaves and think Benjamin Moore’s Oil Cloth would be the perfect accent color for the trim, door and ceiling. I’d add a double light sconce with round milk glass globes to play off the circular shape of the lemons. Adding a wooden framed mirror will help break up the brass between the faucet and light fixture.

Sources: Sandberg Kvitten Wallpaper (Midnight Blue) | Oslo Mirror | Reagan Milk Double Globe Sconce | Paint: Oil Cloth by Benjamin Moore

Moodboard #2:

In such a small space I love the idea of a larger print, as it won’t be an overpowering experience when the door is shut. This beautiful wallpaper by Woodchip & Magnolia checks all the boxes and I’m excited about all of the color way options I could pull out for trim. I have a pint of this pretty smoky pink (Shiny Kettle by Behr) that I never used, and I think I can pull out the right tone of pink from this print to match. The bumblebee vanity sconce from Anthropologie would make so much sense given the flowers in the wallpaper and I think it’s such a fun light fixture in general. I’d again break up the brass light fixture and faucet with a walnut mirror in between.

Sources: Ava Marika Wallpaper | Ophelia & Co Mirror | Bumblebee Vanity Sconce | Shiny Kettle by Behr

Moodboard #3:

This is such a beautiful pallet of muted greens and I love the concept of a mural in this small space. I’ve been trying to work green into my house and this would be such a wonderful solution. Since I plan to install the wallpaper myself for this project, I love the idea of using panels that already line up, which would avoid measuring for the pattern repeat and eliminate some user error. I would anchor the room by pulling out a darker green from the pattern, and I think Farrow & Ball’s Green Smoke would be the perfect pairing. Adding a double sconce with a black shade will bring some elegance into the space and will allow for a black oval mirror as a neutral element.

Sources: House of Hackney Plantasia Wallpaper in Sage | Berkshire Double Sconce | Rapido Black Matte Wall Mirror |Green Smoke by Farrow & Ball

Out of this group of three, I think I have “the one”…but maybe with a couple tweaks. While I wasn’t initially thrilled about the unexpected renovation, I’ve decided to embrace it and am excited to see the evolution of this tiny space. Drop a comment below and let me know which option is your favorite, and stay tuned for the progress report + full reveal.

In the five years I’ve lived in this house, I can confidently say that the new hardwood floors are the biggest transformation to date. I’m so excited to share the final reveal with you today!

The first morning I padded across the new floors in my bare feet, I giggled because it was the first time ever that the floors didn’t squeak or shift. Everything was so still and serene.

The floors are truly the star of the show on their own, but I love how they also compliment the holistic design of the house. Every room feels so much brighter and cleaner, and it almost feels like an entirely new house. I’m absolutely in love with the warm undertones and the varying yet subtle difference in tone across each board.

In this blog post I shared how I naturally (wink wink) came to the decision to keep the stain a more natural finish after I saw the wood in its organic state and I’m so glad I trusted my gut and acted on my initial reaction. My contractor used the Pallmann Pall-X 96 Satin in a water base. He did two coats. I decided to go with a Satin finish, as I didn’t want super shiny floors (gloss / semi-gloss) but also didn’t want them to appear dull. Based on the fact that all of my windows face north and south in the house, I felt this would be a safe bet without too much shine. I’m super happy with the decision!

While we were at it, we decided to install all new baseboards and raise the height. The new five inch baseboards scale so much better with the large rooms and high ceilings vs the previous three inch baseboards (which also had so much wear and tear on them). To save both time and money, I opted to paint the baseboards myself while the contractors were installing the hardwoods. For two weeks, I would wake up at 5am, go down to my garage and put the first coat of paint on as many baseboards and pieces of quarter round as I could. I’d place them on plastic dixie cups to dry while I went to work, then would apply the second coat after I got home from work.

After a couple days of this new routine, I came to look forward to painting while I listened to 90’s on 9 on SiriusXM. Don’t get me wrong, I’m glad this is over and I’ll never have to do it again! By doing this work myself, I was able to save on professional painters, and also avoid potentially getting paint on the new hardwoods!

I couldn’t be happier with the final results, especially with the craftsmanship and professionalism of my contractor, Flavio with FGL Flooring. If you’re in the Nashville area and need new hardwood floors, I couldn’t recommend him enough. They finished both on time and on budget, which is something I’ve never been able to say before.

Still to come is the staircase (I’ve learned so much already about staircase terminology). I can’t wait to share it with you, as well as the final cost breakdown for the complete flooring renovation. 

If you’ve been following along, you’re up to speed on how a small leak has changed my entire house (seemingly overnight). After I had a minute to process what was happening and just how much damage it caused, I decided to lean into the situation and look at it as a blessing. In truth I’ve been unhappy with the engineered hardwoods in this house but installing new hardwoods throughout the entire house was not currently in my budget and therefore wasn’t a short term possibility. With the insurance supplement I’ll be able to get what I really want, and it will be a design choice that fits with the style of this house.

After working with my flooring contractor for a few weeks, we went over my options for the new hardwood flooring, as well as installation plans. The immediate decisions were flooring width, types of wood and the stain. I’ve been saving a few inspiration photos to help guide the conversation with my contractor and am excited to share the design process with you today!

Design decision #1: Plank Width

My previous house had original maple hardwoods that were around 2 inches wide. Initially I was pretty set on installing a similar sized plank because I loved my former floors so much, however after taking a step back I realized just because something works in one house, doesn’t mean it’s the right choice for another house. My previous house had much smaller rooms, as well as lower ceilings. This house has incredibly large rectangular rooms (a lot of 11’ x 17’ spaces) and also has 9 foot ceilings. Knowing this, I decided to increase the floor board width to 3.25 inches and feel like this is going to fit well with the traditional style of the house.

Design decision #2: Wood Type

When it came to the type of wood to consider for the hardwoods, I ultimately went with White Oak. I don’t love seeing a lot of grain in hardwood floors, and I knew that White Oak tends to have a tight linear grain. On top of this feature, it’s also one of the more water-resistant options, and is more accepting of a variety of stain choices.

Design decision #3: replacing the existing carpet

The other big decision was going to be the two rooms with carpet. Both the tv room (“Cozy Room”) and the master bedroom have a beige shag carpet that the previous owners installed. From lifting up the air vents on the floor, we were able to tell that there was already hardwood in both rooms. My contractor could tell the hardwood in the tv room was an oak, but we wouldn’t know until we removed the carpet if it was a red oak or a white oak, and we definitely didn’t know what kind of shape it would be in. Unfortunately the bedroom had a bamboo flooring underneath the carpet, so that was going to need removed and replaced, adding to the overall cost. Ultimately, I decided to remove all the carpet in both rooms and roll the dice on what we’d find underneath.

Design Decision #4: Choosing A Stain

The first bundle of white oak arrived and will sit in the dining room for 2 weeks to cure. While initially I wasn’t sure what I was going to do about a stain decision, after seeing the flooring in its raw state I knew right away this was the look I’d like to stick with. It really goes to show that it’s okay to take your time and sit with some decisions until the right one comes to you. Seeing the wood in my house during all different lighting throughout the day helped me feel confident in my decision.

Timeline & Next Steps

Due to the process with the insurance company, I opted to complete the install in phases. We’d do the downstairs first, and then book the upstairs in conjunction with the staircase. I’ve been living on the subfloor in the kitchen for 6 weeks and cannot wait to finally get this over with. I know the situation could be so much worse, and I’m truly thankful it isn’t, but I’m ready to have things where they belong (where is my coffee thermos?!) and not step on nails popping up from the subfloor. I can’t wait to take you along for the ride and share the journey along the way. Stay tuned for more to come!

Yes, I bought a house with popcorn ceilings and yes I scraped every square inch of them off, all by myself. 3,222 square feet to be exact.

When I bought this house, there was no question that these ceilings were going to get fixed, but it was something I planned to hire out for. I was talking to my mom one day, complaining about how ugly the ceilings are and how dirty they looked (and I couldn’t clean them!) and she told me that one of my cousins removed her popcorn ceilings herself. The seed was planted. Why not try? If it was something I couldn’t do myself, then I could hire out as I originally planned.

Ignorance is truly bliss because this was a bear of a project, and I had no idea how hard and dirty this job was going to be. In the end, I’m so glad I did it myself, as it allowed me to save money that I could invest into other areas of the house. If you have popcorn ceilings and are considering removing them yourself, read on for my step-by-step how to guide.

How To Remove Popcorn Ceilings: A Step-by-Step Guide

Removing popcorn ceilings can be a messy and time-consuming task, but it’s possible to do it yourself with the right tools and precautions. Here’s my step-by-step guide as well as key learnings from along the way:

1. Test for asbestos: You can read all about asbestos as much as you want to, but regardless of the year your house was built I’d suggest testing just to be safe. You can buy self test kits that are easy and relatively cheap, or you can call a professional to test. This is the kit I used and I had my (negative!) results inside of a week. If asbestos is present, hire a licensed asbestos abatement contractor for safe removal.

2. Prepare the area: Remove everything possible from the room including light fixtures. Cover the floors with sheets or drop cloths, and then add an extra layer of plastic sheeting on top for easier clean up. You can also try to hang the plastic sheeting on the walls taping them up with frog tape (see supplies list next), however I chose to let them be and then just cleaned the walls at the very end.

3. Supplies: For protective gear make sure you’re wearing a mask, goggles/glasses and gloves at the minimum. Towards the end of this project I chose to invest in a hazmat suit. You’ll need: a ladder, a spray bottle or pump, fabric softener, a wide putty knife, plastic, painters tape, garbage bags, a shop vac, rags, sandpaper and determination.

4. Wet the ceiling: Before scraping, you need to moisten the popcorn texture to make it easier to remove. Fill your spray bottle with warm water and add a tablespoon of fabric softener. Lightly wet the ceiling being careful not to oversaturate it, as it can damage the underlying surface. Wait 10 minutes.

5. Scrape the texture: Once the ceiling is damp, use a wide putty knife to gently scrape away the texture. Hold the scraper at a shallow angle and apply even pressure to avoid damaging the ceiling. If your knife feels like it’s catching, you might be on a seam. Be gentle and go over this area multiple times rather than applying more pressure. If you feel like you need to, you can add a little bit more water to the area, wait and scrape again.

6. Repair any damage: During the scraping process, some areas may require additional attention. Patch any holes or gouges with drywall compound or joint compound. Sand the repaired areas once they are dry to create a smooth surface.

7. Clean up: This job is messy and there’s no way around it. To avoid cleaning multiple times, I like to work from the top down. Make sure you’ve sanded the ceiling where needed and wiped the tops of the walls where the ceiling and walls meet to loosen any popcorn that might have stuck. Wipe any cabinets / walls, then wipe off your ladder, allowing the residue to drop to the plastic. Slowly gather the plastic from the corners of the room, working inwards to keep the popcorn contained. Place in a trash bag. Remove drop cloths, tools, etc. Shop vac remaining debris.

8. Finishing touches: Depending on your desired result, you may need to apply a skim coat of joint compound to create a flat surface. Once the compound dries, sand it to achieve a smooth finish ready for painting.

After you’ve completed all of the above steps you’ll be ready to paint your new smooth ceiling!

Sometimes seeing someone just like you do the job you’re considering doing really goes a long ways. I’ve gone ahead and put together a video recapping the above instructions, which you can find here.

What Would A Professional Cost?

I know you’re probably wondering what the cost to pay for popcorn ceiling removal might be. Just like anything, it depends on where you live and how big your house is. There was one area of the house I couldn’t do myself which was the entry way. The space has 20 foot ceilings and I don’t own scaffolding, so I needed hire out. The cost to have a 100 square foot section removed was $1200 with another $400 on top for paint. That comes out to $16/square foot, which means my whole house would have cost over $51,000 for professional removal and finishing. I’ll leave you with that information, but I’ll also share that if I can do it, you can too.

When I first toured this house, I was so amazed that there were TWO living rooms! Not to mention they were both double the size of my previous and only living room. Before my offer was finalized, I was planning what existing furniture would go where and since “living room” meant two spaces in this house, I named this room The Cozy Room and/or The TV Room. My vision for the space was that it would be primarily for TV watching and would house my record collection and growing book collection. I was so excited!

The original cozy room had dark tan walls, a shag carpet, popcorn ceiling (same as all the rooms), and bookshelves in a dark woodwork. In the listing pictures the woodwork looked beautiful, but in person it was incredibly chipped and scratched. Either way, it was going to need refinished. Another fun feature of the built in’s  was a gigantic cavity for a large box tv. You know you’re in the 90’s if you have one of these in your house, am I right?!

Without knowing at the time, this room would be attacked in a few phases.

Short Term Goals:

• Remove popcorn ceiling
• Solve for TV cavity
• Refinish / update built-ins
• Paint walls
• Update light fixture
• Design the furniture configuration

Solve for TV Cavity

After sitting with the room for a couple weeks, I decided the best solution for the TV cavity would be to create shelving for my record collection. Since the space was originally built for a big TV, it was too deep as is for records. As a solution, we installed a false wall with a sheet of wood, and then created 3 rows of 2 boxes, for a total of 6 cubbies. It was more than enough space for my current collection to grow, and would allow for it to be a prominent feature in the room.

Refinish Built-In Bookshelves

My next decision was a big one, and that was the paint color. I had already moved past the idea of restoring the wood finish and there was no question in my mind: I was going to paint these built-ins. However, what I had in mind was met with a raised eyebrow from almost everyone I told. I was going to paint them a dark moody blue grey: Benjamin Moore’s Lead Grey. People thought I was crazy.

I decided to hire out for this big change, as the woodwork had a shiny lacquer to it, and at this point I had no experience re-finishing cabinetry. In hindsight, it was worth every penny, as the painters had to sand everything down, clean all the dust, apply primer, sand again, apply the first coat, sand again and then apply the top coat. Having the paint applied evenly and with the proper sanding would ensure the paint would hold up and also look seamless.

For the remaining three walls I decided to paint them Sherwin Williams Biscuit, which was a neutral beige color. I didn’t want to go with white, as I felt it would be too bright for the space and could also tend to make this room feel nautical which is something I didn’t want. Remember, we’re watching movies in here! Biscuit paired well with both the new woodwork paint color as well as the existing dark tan carpet.

To finish up this phase, I removed the popcorn ceiling and swapped out the ceiling fan for a beaded chandelier to bring a bit of drama to the room while still staying within the new color scheme.

Is this room completed? Nope! This was my initial scrub to make it feel like my own, while on a limited budget.

Cost Breakdown:

Record shelving: $428.89

Built In’s Professionally painted: $1680

Paint for Walls (painted by me): $97.96

Paint for ceiling (updated & painted by me): $26.98

Beaded Chandelier: $387.41

Grand Total: $2621.24

Stay tuned to see where this room is headed next. Spoiler alert: you’re not going to believe it!